2023MY Standard Audio (6-speaker) Subwoofer Delete Mandatory and Functional Amps Removed

[OuterJersey]

Thanks to all the experts here. Appreciate all your time in answering these questions..sometimes maybe 2 or 3 times!

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[RagnarKon]

So you may have answered a question I was gonna ask. I have the wild track with sub delete. I installed the Fusion amp with the kicker 6.5. I get zero base from the amp. Do I need to turn it on with forscan( which I don’t have at the moment). I’ve been reading this whole installation is plug and play but it doesn’t seem to work for me.

More info and a video below if you need it. But @HPNQ420 and @Pressurized are correct... you need to turn it on with Forscan and there are lots of tutorials on YouTube beyond my own.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/how-to-forscan-audio-speaker-mods.71145/

 

[Pressurized]

So you may have answered a question I was gonna ask. I have the wild track with sub delete. I installed the Fusion amp with the kicker 6.5. I get zero base from the amp. Do I need to turn it on with forscan( which I don’t have at the moment). I’ve been reading this whole installation is plug and play but it doesn’t seem to work for me.

Yes, as mentioned above, the output to the sub must be turned on with Forscan. You need an adapter (linked below) and also a Forscan activation code for Forscan Extended License which costs $12. That allows you to make unlimited changes for 1 year.

The Forscan website isn't remarkably intuitive. But if you take your time you can get through it. Download Forscan first then buy the extended license. That will get you a code to enter in to Forscan to allow you to make the changes we make. There are a lot of tutorials on Forscan on YouTube.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0952P4MLP?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[soldier989]

After installing a factory sub takeout from a. 23MY, turning off the EQ and setting the rear pops to "speaker" - is it normal to get ACM errors, a weird digital sound when first getting in the car/shutting the car off, and the door chime no longer going through the speakers (instead it comes from the guage cluster)?

Is the ACM error due to looking for 2ohm "speakers", causing the ACM errors, which in turn is disabling the speaker chime and making the digital noises?

 

[Bronccat]

Well after I was getting distortion with the two ohm Kicker I replaced it with the four ohm and lasted about 2 weeks (50% bass setting and max volume about 18 with top off).

Now it's doing the same thing and I've got the bass turned way down in settings. I'm not sure what else to do.

As before it doesn't do it on every song and I'm running it at about 10% of bass slide now. It was very noticeable playing Royals by Lorde

 

[iSarge]

Brace yourselves, I've got a few questions and I have diligently read half the posts here.

2023MY Bronco WT 2Door | High | Non-B&O:
Window Sticker: AM/FM,6 SPKRS,SDARS -250

Q1: The wires with plug connectors are in place for the Fusion amp and also for the subwoofer, is that correct?

Q2: Before I take the Bronco to the Car Audio specialist (disassembly, installation, reassembly), can I do the step where I use FORScan to submit the change which enables the Amp?

Q3: So when they install the Fusion Amp and the Kicker Subwoofer, it should operate normally?

 

[Pressurized]

Well after I was getting distortion with the two ohm Kicker I replaced it with the four ohm and lasted about 2 weeks (50% bass setting and max volume about 18 with top off).

Now it's doing the same thing and I've got the bass turned way down in settings. I'm not sure what else to do.

As before it doesn't do it on every song and I'm running it at about 10% of bass slide now. It was very noticeable playing Royals by Lorde

That is unfortunate... I certainly don't have any explanation for what you are experiencing.

I hope someone else will chime in and get you started on a troubleshooting path. If it's not doing it constantly, it will be more difficult. It doesn't sound like something the amp would do, more like a speaker issue.

You could try the Pyle and see if it gives you a different result, cheap at $21.

https://www.amazon.com/Car-Vehicle-...ive&sprefix=pyle+plpw6d,automotive,184&sr=1-2

Mine continues to work as expected.

Brace yourselves, I've got a few questions and I have diligently read half the posts here.

2023MY Bronco WT 2Door | High | Non-B&O:
Window Sticker: AM/FM,6 SPKRS,SDARS -250

Q1: The wires with plug connectors are in place for the Fusion amp and also for the subwoofer, is that correct?

Q2: Before I take the Bronco to the Car Audio specialist (disassembly, installation, reassembly), can I do the step where I use FORScan to submit the change which enables the Amp?

Q3: So when they install the Fusion Amp and the Kicker Subwoofer, it should operate normally?

Q1: Yes.
Q2: Yes.
Q3: Yes.

In the simplest of terms. It is plug and play once the Forscan change is made to turn on the subwoofer.

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

Brace yourselves, I've got a few questions and I have diligently read half the posts here.

2023MY Bronco WT 2Door | High | Non-B&O:
Window Sticker: AM/FM,6 SPKRS,SDARS -250

Q1: The wires with plug connectors are in place for the Fusion amp and also for the subwoofer, is that correct?

Q2: Before I take the Bronco to the Car Audio specialist (disassembly, installation, reassembly), can I do the step where I use FORScan to submit the change which enables the Amp?

Q3: So when they install the Fusion Amp and the Kicker Subwoofer, it should operate normally?

Q1 - the wiring is in place, mostly. Not knowing the specific subwoofer you intend to install to replace the stock non-functional unit delivered with your vehicle - and assuming you will NOT be sourcing a functional OEM unit to drop in - the wiring FROM the amp to the subwoofer will need to be clipped and stripped to connect to the replacement non-OEM subwoofer.

Q2 - I personally wouldn't enable the subwoofer without functional equipment and connections in place to avoid potential error codes being thrown . . . but that's just me and my own preference speaking.

Q3 - Yes, once the functional equipment is properly connected and the appropriate Forscan changes have been made to enable the sub then it will function exactly the same as if it had been factory installed (no SDARS).

 

[Bronccat]

@Pressurized thanks man, I may give that a shot

 

[KirchTX]

Brace yourselves, I've got a few questions and I have diligently read half the posts here.

2023MY Bronco WT 2Door | High | Non-B&O:
Window Sticker: AM/FM,6 SPKRS,SDARS -250

Q1: The wires with plug connectors are in place for the Fusion amp and also for the subwoofer, is that correct?

Q2: Before I take the Bronco to the Car Audio specialist (disassembly, installation, reassembly), can I do the step where I use FORScan to submit the change which enables the Amp?

Q3: So when they install the Fusion Amp and the Kicker Subwoofer, it should operate normally?

If you’re willing to do the forscan, removing the side panel and plugging in the fusion amp to a kicker 6.75” sub is pretty easy. Not sure what a shop would charge.

I did it last weekend and it absolutely makes a difference the problem is I know it can be better and now I’ve got the upgrade bug…..

 

[soldier989]

If you source a factory Bronco sub like I did, just plug it in and flip the switch. Even the factory sub really enhanced the sound quite a bit. Getting the panel off was pretty easy on my 2D. You shouldn't need to pay someone to take it apart.

 

[tokyo]

My configuration (2-door Base Bronco w/7 speaker sub delete):
* No aftermarket amp - connected to factory head unit
* Dash speakers: Hertz DCX 100.3 Dieci Series 4" (4-ohm) w/300Hz HPF (bass-blockers)
* Kick panel speakers: Left them stock
* Rear pod speakers: Hertz DCX 100.3 Dieci Series 4" (4-ohm) w/150Hz HPF (bass-blockers). Note for installing these Hertz speakers in the rear pods: I had to cut off two metal corners on each speaker to get them to fit.
* Subwoofer Amp: Ford Fusion Amp FP5T-18C808-AB
* Subwoofer: Kicker 48CWRT674 - CompRT Series shallow-mount 6-3/4" subwoofer with dual 4-ohm voice coils

Note: I did flatten the EQ [00 = EQS Flat EQ] and I sent full range to rear pods [02 = Full-range to rear pods* (7-speaker)].

I tried a lot of different types of music, rock, hip-hop, latin, electronic, etc. I used Apple Music Lossless connected via USB as a source. Went through a range of heavy bass and instrumentals. Some songs I tested: Rush YYZ, Tiesto WOW. With default audio settings, everything sounded amazing to me and no distortion at loud volumes.

This may be a dumb question that has been answered before.. sorry..

If you can send the full range to aftermarket coax 4" speakers in the pods and they sound good (as mentioned above).. can't you send the full range to aftermarket 4" speakers in the dash too?

Isn't the as-built values treating the dash speakers as tweeters?

 

[Pressurized]

This may be a dumb question that has been answered before.. sorry..

If you can send the full range to the 4" speakers in the pods and they sound good.. can't you send the full range to the 4" speakers in the dash too?

Isn't the as-built values treating the dash speakers as tweeters?

You only send full range to the pods if you do the 6.5" pod upgrade. Not if you just leave the 4" in there.

As-built, the front is set speaker-tweeter which tells the amp what load to expect. It is a full range signal, but the 4" in the dash have a factory bass blocker on them.

 

[tokyo]

You only send full range to the pods if you do the 6.5" pod upgrade. Not if you just leave the 4" in there.

As-built, the front is set speaker-tweeter which tells the amp what load to expect. It is a full range signal, but the 4" in the dash have a factory bass blocker on them.

Sorry, my question was worded weird.

I meant to ask about sending full range to aftermarket 4" speakers (like Hertz as he did)

Sorry for confusion.

I edited my question

And thanks for answer on dash getting full range. For some reason I was thinking the as built speaker-tweeter setting for kick/dash didn't send a full signal to the dash.

 

[Pressurized]

Sorry, my question was worded weird.

I meant to ask about sending full range to aftermarket 4" speakers (like Hertz as he did)

Sorry for confusion.

I edited my question

Ah, yes…. He added a passive bass blocker at 150hz (that’s too low in my opinion for a 4”) then bypassed the electronic bass blocker by sending full range to the rears.

The fronts are wired in parallel, so both kick panels and dash see the same signal. That’s why we add the bass blocker to aftermarket speakers in the dash.

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