4” Speaker Harness Pics

[peta8368]

Since you annihilated the connector, can you get extract and get the info off of the capacitor that is next to it?

Here's a picture of the capacitor, with a bit of discussion around the cut off frequency based on that (and alternatives). Sounds legit, no idea how reliable.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/base-sound-system-upgrade-build.18480/page-18#post-776293
https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/base-sound-system-upgrade-build.18480/page-18#post-776806

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[Portapot]

Nice Flip…. Very helpful. Got my 4 pin harness today and it fit perfectly, it also combined the two positive and two negative leads. So I assume I just plug those into the positive and negative on the 6.5”. Seemed to work. The sound is pretty good but I still think the bass out of the factory speakers is better, maybe I should have gone with a component 6.5 and not a coax?

 

[flip]

Nice Flip…. Very helpful. Got my 4 pin harness today and it fit perfectly, it also combined the two positive and two negative leads. So I assume I just plug those into the positive and negative on the 6.5”. Seemed to work. The sound is pretty good but I still think the bass out of the factory speakers is better, maybe I should have gone with a component 6.5 and not a coax?

I threw the dash in last night and immediately noticed an improvement. Will probably do the rear pods tonight and waiting on the Metra connectors and caps for the front. All Focal Auditor series coax. If I get real ambitious in the future I may try to make some different rear pods for 5 1/4"s and a sub in the back. It would make things so much nicer if the factory would have pre-outs from the ACU.

 

[Hobgoblin]

I threw the dash in last night and immediately noticed an improvement. Will probably do the rear pods tonight and waiting on the Metra connectors and caps for the front. All Focal Auditor series coax. If I get real ambitious in the future I may try to make some different rear pods for 5 1/4"s and a sub in the back. It would make things so much nicer if the factory would have pre-outs from the ACU.

I will be way behind as I don't have a build date but I did a test listen on Crutchfield last weekend. I narrowed it down to the Focal RCX and Focal ICU series. Great to hear that the RCX Auditors are doing well. Will be interested in seeing a complete rundown of your components and connectors when you have things complete! Thanks

 

[flip]

I will be way behind as I don't have a build date but I did a test listen on Crutchfield last weekend. I narrowed it down to the Focal RCX and Focal ICU series. Great to hear that the RCX Auditors are doing well. Will be interested in seeing a complete rundown of your components and connectors when you have things complete! Thanks

I looked at the TE crimper for the dash connector terminals with the thought of making some up and selling them. I've got several specific crimpers but the one for the GET .064 terminals is around $700. Couldn't find any pre wired pigtails so I may try soldering a few and see how that works out. Metra does the kick panel speakers but I've been unable to find the correct 4 cavity male side from Yazaki to DIY my own.

 

[Pressurized]

Pin is 1mm wide and .62mm thick. I'm sure there are some premade terminated wires available but that would add a little $ and require some soldering or butt connections. Still need to put some heat shrink on but it's ready to go.

Nicely done! And if it works as planned, a simple post with a parts list would be very helpful.

Cheers!

 

[flip]

Nicely done! And if it works as planned, a simple post with a parts list would be very helpful.

Cheers!

It works. Bass blockers came from Crutchfield (need 4 for pods and dash) Crutchfield Bass Blockers (600 Hz cut-off) Pair of inline frequency filters at Crutchfield

The connectors and terminals for them. Mouser
538-31067-1071
571-2-1419158-5-CT

As I've told others, these terminals are small and very tricky to crimp without the $700 tool from TE and get to fit in the connector cavity. Not impossible by any means, but you need to have some sort of crimper that does 20-24ga terminals. I soldered one after cutting the insulation "wings" off after crimping the conductor and it was fine. All depends on your ability and tools to do it. Parts are cheap.

 

[Portapot]

It works. Bass blockers came from Crutchfield (need 4 for pods and dash) Crutchfield Bass Blockers (600 Hz cut-off) Pair of inline frequency filters at Crutchfield

The connectors and terminals for them. Mouser
538-31067-1071
571-2-1419158-5-CT

As I've told others, these terminals are small and very tricky to crimp without the $700 tool from TE and get to fit in the connector cavity. Not impossible by any means, but you need to have some sort of crimper that does 20-24ga terminals. I soldered one after cutting the insulation "wings" off after crimping the conductor and it was fine. All depends on your ability and tools to do it. Parts are cheap.

Flip I tried the 600HZ bass blockers and for my ears they blocked too much bass....were you pleased with the sound with those installed...like was it night and day? Thinking maybe I should try it again. I have 300hz coming in this week, was going to try those.

 

[redone17]

Flip I tried the 600HZ bass blockers and for my ears they blocked too much bass....

Even with bass turned up in settings?

 

[flip]

Flip I tried the 600HZ bass blockers and for my ears they blocked too much bass....were you pleased with the sound with those installed...like was it night and day? Thinking maybe I should try it again. I have 300hz coming in this week, was going to try those.

It’s fine for me and what the system is. Not what I would design but not worth spending tons of $$ trying to make good. I would like at least an 8” in the back quarter if I get ambitious and can figure out how to do with minimal butchering.

 

[Portapot]

It’s fine for me and what the system is. Not what I would design but not worth spending tons of $$ trying to make good. I would like at least an 8” in the back quarter if I get ambitious and can figure out how to do with minimal butchering.

I went with the infinity 4” and infinity kappa 6.5” and I honestly think it sounds worse than stock. I do not have the polarity wrong triple checked it all. I wonder if going with a 6.5” component speaker is a better option as opposed to a coax. I might put the factory 6.5’s back in or take it to a pro. Appreciate everyones support and feedback to date on the forum!

 

[Portapot]

I went with the infinity 4” and infinity kappa 6.5” and I honestly think it sounds worse than stock. I do not have the polarity wrong triple checked it all. I wonder if going with a 6.5” component speaker is a better option as opposed to a coax. I might put the factory 6.5’s back in or take it to a pro. Appreciate everyones support and feedback to date on the forum!

I put 0-200hz bass blockers on the front speakers and it made a tremedous difference in sound quality on the Infinity setup. I had tried 600hz and it was not for me, I felt it blocked too much tone on these specific speakers. Needless to say I am now happy with this configuration and will not be going back to stock 6.5" I just need to put the 0-200hz on the rear next and then I am calling it a day. Just thought I'd share. Also be careful popping out those front grills, the tabs on them break very easily. Had to JB weld one back on.

 

[Gobraphil]

I put 0-200hz bass blockers on the front speakers and it made a tremedous difference in sound quality on the Infinity setup. I had tried 600hz and it was not for me, I felt it blocked too much tone on these specific speakers. Needless to say I am now happy with this configuration and will not be going back to stock 6.5" I just need to put the 0-200hz on the rear next and then I am calling it a day. Just thought I'd share. Also be careful popping out those front grills, the tabs on them break very easily. Had to JB weld one back on.

Bass blockers on the 4 in or 6.5s?

 

[redone17]

I put 0-200hz bass blockers on the front speakers and it made a tremedous difference in sound quality on the Infinity setup. I had tried 600hz and it was not for me, I felt it blocked too much tone on these specific speakers. Needless to say I am now happy with this configuration and will not be going back to stock 6.5" I just need to put the 0-200hz on the rear next and then I am calling it a day. Just thought I'd share. Also be careful popping out those front grills, the tabs on them break very easily. Had to JB weld one back on.

Crap. I knew I should have ordered the lower hz as well while I had the free shipping…

 

[Portapot]

Bass blockers on the 4 in or 6.5s?

4s only

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