4” Speaker Harness Pics

[Portapot]

Thanks man....I'm thinking based on what I am seeing that the positive feed for the kick panel and 4" front speaker are all powered together. I don't see how it could be done any other way.

Flip for shits and giggles I created two more short speaker leads and wired all the positive wires together and then negative wires together coming off the 6.5" which left me with 2 positive and 2 negative leads feeding into the 6.5" speaker. I then temporarily jammed the positives into the Blue wire on the harness and the Green wire on the harness, put the negative leads into the other two slots. All 4 speakers fired up. Not sure if this helps any, but when I get the Metra harness tomorrow my intent is to plug it into the harness and then wire the positive leads together with the positive lead coming from the speaker so three wires into 1, and do the same for the negative. I will report my findings. Have no reason to believe it should not work like I just tested. I'm trying to avoid cutting this harness if I can. Sucks though because I have the bronco taken apart pretty well so I will have to drive the other car for a day ;o). Then I might just put the bass blocker on the 4" speakers and call it a day. I am worried if I put bass blockers on the 6.5" then those frequencies will also be blocked by the 4". Maybe I do like a 0-70hz on the 6.5 and then do a 0-300hz on the 4", that might work. Will keep really low frequencies off the 6.5 but allow me to further reduce the frequency to the 4"'s. This is frequency blocking is new to me. Probably would be easier with an amp, but I don't see a need for an amp based on my listening habits.

I still find the music sounds like crap with these new Inifity's, and I doubt very much it is the speakers. More like user error. I just think there is something going on with that 6.5"/4" wiring that optimizes those factory speakers. The depth of bass is so much better on the factory speakers, and my 6.5" are those infinity kappa series, they are nice speakers. Half tempted to reinstall the factory 6.5 but I must be doing something wrong, so I don't want to put all the body trim back just yet.. I will keep tinkering with it.

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[jsharpe]

I still find the music sounds like crap with these new Inifity's, and I doubt very much it is the speakers. More like user error. I just think there is something going on with that 6.5"/4" wiring that optimizes those factory speakers. The depth of bass is so much better on the factory speakers, and my 6.5" are those infinity kappa series, they are nice speakers. Half tempted to reinstall the factory 6.5 but I must be doing something wrong, so I don't want to put all the body trim back just yet.. I will keep tinkering with it.

Getting the polarity wrong on on side will kill your base.

 

[rdass623]

So from other threads folks were looking for more pics of the 4” speaker harness. Hoping these might help us narrow in on what we need.

Amazon.com: Metra 72-5600 Ford Speaker Harness 1998-UP not an ad, but here is the product you are looking for.

 

[Portapot]

Amazon.com: Metra 72-5600 Ford Speaker Harness 1998-UP not an ad, but here is the product you are looking for.

Did you have success with those? Maybe they look like a fit for 4” but not 6.5” the 6.5 are 4 pin and i ordered those.

 

[rdass623]

Did you have success with those? Maybe they look like a fit for 4” but not 6.5” the 6.5 are 4 pin and i ordered those.

it looks like they should fit, order a set and try them out. i have used them on fords before rather than cutting into the harness. i do not see why ford would use a bronco specific speaker connection... it is not like they have any trade secrets towards sound reproduction...

 

[flip]

Survey says these are the correct male connectors for the dash/rear pod speakers along with Mouser pin # 571-2-1419158-5-CT. However......The pins are incredibly small and require very careful crimping using 20ga wire. If they are not done correctly the pin won't fit in the housing and lock. Even with good crimping pliers I had to fiddle with them until they slid in and locked. Soldering would probably take care of the problem but the conductor and insulation "wings" will need to be clipped since this is where the hang up happens.

I have not messed with the kick panel speakers but my plan is to use a short section of 20ga wire that will come out of the connector, to the base blockers which plug directly into the speaker. Since most folks will be just using factory head unit 20ga is enough. If you plan to use an amp and throw more juice then I would recommend running dedicated speaker wire.

 

[RobbyBronco]

Amazon.com: Metra 72-5600 Ford Speaker Harness 1998-UP not an ad, but here is the product you are looking for.

Did you have success with those?

it looks like they should fit, order a set and try them out.

 

[peta8368]

Survey says these are the correct male connectors for the dash/rear pod speakers along with Mouser pin # 571-2-1419158-5-CT. However......The pins are incredibly small and require very careful crimping using 20ga wire. If they are not done correctly the pin won't fit in the housing and lock. Even with good crimping pliers I had to fiddle with them until they slid in and locked. Soldering would probably take care of the problem but the conductor and insulation "wings" will need to be clipped since this is where the hang up happens.

I have not messed with the kick panel speakers but my plan is to use a short section of 20ga wire that will come out of the connector, to the base blockers which plug directly into the speaker. Since most folks will be just using factory head unit 20ga is enough. If you plan to use an amp and throw more juice then I would recommend running dedicated speaker wire.

NICE!!!

thoughts on using something similar to this so it saves you some work? although I don't see the wire size specified, so there is a chance it's too thick for the pins. (doubt it.. it is cheap wires from Amazon, so will most likely be on the thinner side)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FHWVBM4/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_15KREWJCM27RWQ31JTFC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

EDIT: first question asked is about wire sizing for the 4.8mm, and the answer is 22ga.

 

[flip]

NICE!!!

thoughts on using something similar to this so it saves you some work? although I don't see the wire size specified, so there is a chance it's too thick for the pins. (doubt it.. it is cheap wires from Amazon, so will most likely be on the thinner side)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FHWVBM4/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_15KREWJCM27RWQ31JTFC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

EDIT: first question asked is about wire sizing for the 4.8mm, and the answer is 22ga.

Pin is 1mm wide and .62mm thick. I'm sure there are some premade terminated wires available but that would add a little $ and require some soldering or butt connections. Still need to put some heat shrink on but it's ready to go.

 

[Gobraphil]

Pin is 1mm wide and .62mm thick. I'm sure there are some premade terminated wires available but that would add a little $ and require some soldering or butt connections. Still need to put some heat shrink on but it's ready to go.

You need my shipping address pal??

 

[peta8368]

Pin is 1mm wide and .62mm thick. I'm sure there are some premade terminated wires available but that would add a little $ and require some soldering or butt connections. Still need to put some heat shrink on but it's ready to go.

AH, you are putting the blocker into it too. I did see you mention that in the last reply, but it completely escaped me while thinking about the wiring. I was thinking to buy some kind of pre-made spade pigtails (20cm wire), crimp the 571-2-1419158-5-CT onto the bare wire end, and then insert 571-2-1419158-5-CT into 31067-1071. But your solution is definitely closer to stock configuration.

Do you think an aftermarket 4" really needs the frequency blocker that keeps it above 300-350hz? I am hoping aftermarket speakers with better material can handle the bass. Thoughts?

 

[flip]

AH, you are putting the blocker into it too. I did see you mention that in the last reply, but it completely escaped me while thinking about the wiring. I was thinking to buy some kind of pre-made spade pigtails (20cm wire), crimp the 571-2-1419158-5-CT onto the bare wire end, and then insert 571-2-1419158-5-CT into 31067-1071. But your solution is definitely closer to stock configuration.

Do you think an aftermarket 4" really needs the frequency blocker that keeps it above 300-350hz? I am hoping aftermarket speakers with better material can handle the bass. Thoughts?

It looks like the factory has caps in there to cut it off so I'm going to do the same. I come from early-mid 90's car systems with an emphasis on twin cerwin vega 18"s with 1200w was just a good starting place. Probably why I tinnitus now.

 

[RobbyBronco]

Pin is 1mm wide and .62mm thick. I'm sure there are some premade terminated wires available but that would add a little $ and require some soldering or butt connections. Still need to put some heat shrink on but it's ready to go.

So you figured out the polarity of the 4” speakers?

 

[flip]

So you figured out the polarity of the 4” speakers?

 

[jh3113]

let’s just say I got the photos…. So much for using the harness ;-)

Since you annihilated the connector, can you get extract and get the info off of the capacitor that is next to it?

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