B&O sound system complete upgrade - Done ✅

[Ksjrb03]

Just a heads up that Kicker Key amp is on sale for $223 on Amazon right now.

I’m looking for some guidance from those that have done the install. I’m about to install a WeBoost antenna amp and was planning to install where you guys are installing the kicker amp. Wondering if I will have room for both? Maybe there’s room on the drivers side?

This is the WeBoost amp with dimensions:

Any suggestions where I can stick this and still have room for the Kicker amp? I’d wire in to the rear aux switch for power.

I’ll be tight but I think there might be room for both.

Sponsored

 

[Roofus]

I’ll be tight but I think there might be room for both.

Copy. If you think it might work I guess I'll go ahead and try to mock it up.

 

[Jdyount]

47 Pages, I think I should get some sort of medal for reading every single post! I do feel like I am sufficiently prepared for this upgrade, thank you all for your input. Looking at all the reviews from Bronco owners for these speakers at Crutchfield, they SO owe @Ksjrb03 some sort of kickback...

 

[Roofus]

47 Pages, I think I should get some sort of medal for reading every single post! I do feel like I am sufficiently prepared for this upgrade, thank you all for your input. Looking at all the reviews from Bronco owners for these speakers at Crutchfield, they SO owe @Ksjrb03 some sort of kickback...

My sub and amp etc all come tomorrow and I’m trying to install it, sound proofing and WeBoost amp this weekend. I was just thinking I needed to read OPs post again . Gonna be a doozy. Prayers for my install please.

 

[Jdyount]

My sub and amp etc all come tomorrow and I’m trying to install it, sound proofing and WeBoost amp this weekend. I was just thinking I needed to read OPs post again . Gonna be a doozy. Prayers for my install please.

It will go fine. Just make sure that if you're using the adaptors from Amazon that the polarity is correct. They had some that went out that were backwards.

 

[Roofus]

It will go fine. Just make sure that if you're using the adaptors from Amazon that the polarity is correct. They had some that went out that were backwards.

You mean the adapters for the 4” speakers? Im just doing sub right now. I’ll do the 3 front and pods next month. I want to knock out sub/amp, soundproofing, and WeBoost at the same time so I’m not having to tear up the trunk twice. The rest of the speakers should be easy.

 

[Jdyount]

My only debate in this whole thing is do I run the sub amp off of the kick panel inputs or from the sub inputs? Other than that question, 100% following the OP's build.

 

[Ksjrb03]

My only debate in this whole thing is do I run the sub amp off of the kick panel inputs or from the sub inputs? Other than that question, 100% following the OP's build.

Either way will be fine. Most of us just used the sub inputs for convenience. If your not looking to shake the neighborhood with volume level above 21, you will not notice a difference at all. This upgrade path is based on easy upgrade, with marginal cost and high return. If your looking for superior results you would be going a different path altogether anyways.

 

[Jdyount]

Either way will be fine. Most of us just used the sub inputs for convenience. If your not looking to shake the neighborhood with volume level above 21, you will not notice a difference at all. This upgrade path is based on easy upgrade, with marginal cost and high return. If your looking for superior results you would be going a different path altogether anyways.

You're right. Both are DSP processed signals anyway. I have dynamic control at my finger tips with the amp remote knob so it really doesn't matter. If I want I can always upgrade and add an A2B interface module down the road and amp everything.

 

[Ksjrb03]

You're right. Both are DSP processed signals anyway. I have dynamic control at my finger tips with the amp remote knob so it really doesn't matter. If I want I can always upgrade and add an A2B interface module down the road and amp everything.

Right. The difference between the sub and kick panel channels is the DSP artificially eases up on bass for the sub channel at high volumes, to hide the inadequacy of the factory sub. In my testing I could only detect this a bit at volumes in the 20s. So I did not bother making the switch permanent. My volume lives at 15-17, and musical tastes are not bass forward.

 

[Jdyount]

Right. The difference between the sub and kick panel channels is the DSP artificially eases up on bass for the sub channel at high volumes, to hide the inadequacy of the factory sub. In my testing I could only detect this a bit at volumes in the 20s. So I did not bother making the switch permanent. My volume lives at 15-17, and musical tastes are not bass forward.

That almost has to be a config setting somewhere in Forscan. Maybe they hard coded it into the firmware of the DSP but I doubt it. Seems like something they would want to control if they changed speaker suppliers or something like that.

Is it worth the time digging into? Probably not, but now I'm intrigued... If I'm going to try and fiddle with audio Forscan settings I probably ought to do it before I change my speakers out that way if I pop one, it's the factory...

IDK we'll see how motivated I get. I know my Forscan license is expired and I'm going to have to wait the stupid 30 minutes for them to email me a new one so it's probably not worth it. PLUS there are people way more motivated than me so if it was semi-easy to figure out, I'm sure someone would have already...

 

[Ksjrb03]

That almost has to be a config setting somewhere in Forscan. Maybe they hard coded it into the firmware of the DSP but I doubt it. Seems like something they would want to control if they changed speaker suppliers or something like that.

Is it worth the time digging into? Probably not, but now I'm intrigued... If I'm going to try and fiddle with audio Forscan settings I probably ought to do it before I change my speakers out that way if I pop one, it's the factory...

IDK we'll see how motivated I get. I know my Forscan license is expired and I'm going to have to wait the stupid 30 minutes for them to email me a new one so it's probably not worth it. PLUS there are people way more motivated than me so if it was semi-easy to figure out, I'm sure someone would have already...

If your really interested google Ford B&O system bass roll off. Lots of info out there on F150 and mustang forums. Not something you can Forscan away IIRC.

 

[Roofus]

How many sheets of kilmat did y'all use for just the trunk area as pictured in the original post? I'm just trying to do the sub/trunk area stuff this weekend. I have 18sq/ft of mat. Now worried if I have enough.

Also, is there an adapter option for kicker amp and sub and factory wiring, or is splicing the only method there?

 

[Johnny Mo]

How many sheets of kilmat did y'all use for just the trunk area as pictured in the original post? I'm just trying to do the sub/trunk area stuff this weekend. I have 18sq/ft of mat. Now worried if I have enough.

Also, is there an adapter option for kicker amp and sub and factory wiring, or is splicing the only method there?

I bought the 36sq ft and have more than 1/2 leftover. I did the rear floor and wheel humps and will likely do sub enclosure this weekend when I install my new sub and amp. Also found the connectors - plug and play was on back order for a few months they said, crutchfield suggested PAC/Stinger - but that is an entire B&O kit for $440 - I got make your own connectors from amazon but wasn't sure if I needed male or female end (its funny the male connector has the female sockets and female connector has the male pins - so I wasn't sure which they were referring to ass male/female - will have more to report back later this weekend. but these are the connectors I bought.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085XLPSPP?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0891YQ499?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

[Roofus]

I bought the 36sq ft and have more than 1/2 leftover. I did the rear floor and wheel humps and will likely do sub enclosure this weekend when I install my new sub and amp. Also found the connectors - plug and play was on back order for a few months they said, crutchfield suggested PAC/Stinger - but that is an entire B&O kit for $440 - I got make your own connectors from amazon but wasn't sure if I needed male or female end (its funny the male connector has the female sockets and female connector has the male pins - so I wasn't sure which they were referring to ass male/female - will have more to report back later this weekend. but these are the connectors I bought.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085XLPSPP?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0891YQ499?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Is that what you're using going from the factory amp to the Kicker Key rather than butt connectors? And then it's just 14-gauge speaker wire from the Kicker Key to the Kicker sub?

Sponsored