Base 2 Door Audio Upgrade Needed - Roof Off Sound

[mike8675309]

I'm looking to do some audio upgrades to my base sasquatch. Last year I drove about 300 miles with the roof off and at highway speeds, and the stock audio system just wasn't cutting it.
Both in listening to voice (podcasts) and streaming music, I need it to be louder without the distortion the stock system has as you raise the volume.

I know a Kicker Key 200.4 and speaker upgrades are needed. I really don't have any room to add a subwoofer, as a two-door without a roof doesn't have any storage when filled with grandkids, recovery gear, and snacks. Or do I?

What should we really consider to get reasonable sound when in traffic going down the highway with the roof off? I've done audio work on prior vehicles but it was just hoping and praying. So I really don't know what I'm doing.

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[35tires]

The kicker key is not that good - I don't get it's popularity here other than they're small so easy to hide and a bit of crowd mentality. Maybe I'm missing something.

I went with a 5 channel amplifier. For that, a good 5 channel amp would power all 4 speakers (I used components in the dash but we can deal with that when we get there) and a subwoofer. I have a shallow mount 8 inch sub hidden with a custom box. JL audio makes one that fits behind the panels in your Bronco and is invisible, and you can even find some that will fit under your seat. There is also a tailgate mounted option that goes inside the rear tailgate and looks great, sounds great and can be moderately affordable depending on budget. It's as out of the way as possible. I'd google that one as I have heard a lot of folks like different versions of that setup for the balance of convenience and placement as well as subwoofer size.

It comes down to budget, comfort with installation, and your goal. Louder sounds like your goal, so we've got that. now, we need to know your budget and if you're going to install or if you're going to want a shop to do it.

With that we can move on to next steps.

 

[RagnarKon]

Kicker Key 200.4 is a definite upgrade over the stock amp and a very popular choice. But it's really not the end-all-be-all amplifier. I think a lot of people picked the Kicker 200.4 because several forum members used it in their setups early on and posted how-to articles/videos for it. Admittedly I am one of those people, but truthfully only reason why I bought it is because it was on sale during black friday a few year ago at a great price. Granted I'm very happy with it, but had it not been on sale, I would have bought something different.

If you are really going for the no-top jams, I would do a 300+ watt 4-channel amp. Something like the AudioControl ACM-4.300 or the Kicker KPX 300.4. If you want a subwoofer, then a 5-channel 600+ watt amp would be a good fit.

But yeah, as @35tires mentioned, it ultimately depends on your budget and comfort level when it comes to tearing apart the interior of your Bronco.

 

[frdfan]

I agree with the previous post, the Kicker Key is mediocure at best. I returned the one I got and picked up a Musway 4.100 (also a little underpowered imo) from Plug-N-Play kits, along with the wiring harness and Kicker powered 10" sub. I also picked up Kicker KS 6.5's for the kick panels and Mabett rear pods and Kicker KS 4" for the dash. I spent right around 1k for all and did the work myself. Watched several vids, but @RagnarKon are ultimately the best install videos out there..even though he uses the KickerKey amp. Used his kick panel wiring hack which greatly improved the dash sound. I recommend getting with Joe at Plug-N-Play to put together a system...he knows his stuff.

 

[2022 base]

Honestly it all comes down to what you can spend! Give yourself a budget and work from there. I have a 5 channel and 8" sub that jams nice @ volume 20 with full volume if needed.

 

[35tires]

Honestly it all comes down to what you can spend! Give yourself a budget and work from there. I have a 5 channel and 8" sub that jams nice @ volume 20 with full volume if needed.

1k - 1500 if you're installing yourself and you could build a really impressive setup for 75% of the people on the planet and have taking the roof off never be an issue again. If you need it installed, double that.

 

[mike8675309]

Let's say the budget is $1,500 and I'm doing it myself, with the help of the internet.
I can't do the tailgate sub, as it would take up too much room. Literally, when the tailgate is closed, it's up against my recovery gear and CO2 tank on that hinge side of the gate.

I haven't seen a sub that tucks into the passenger-side interior panel on a two-door. I wouldn't want the amp under a seat, as I do go out in the snow, and the whole interior can get wet. Plus, with the top off, it could rain, so protection is needed.

I think of the KickerKey mostly because there is a conversion harness ready-made for it.

 

[2022 base]

Let's say the budget is $1,500 and I'm doing it myself, with the help of the internet.
I can't do the tailgate sub, as it would take up too much room. Literally, when the tailgate is closed, it's up against my recovery gear and CO2 tank on that hinge side of the gate.

I haven't seen a sub that tucks into the passenger-side interior panel on a two-door. I wouldn't want the amp under a seat, as I do go out in the snow, and the whole interior can get wet. Plus, with the top off, it could rain, so protection is needed.

I think of the KickerKey mostly because there is a conversion harness ready-made for it.

You can pick out any amp you like but I recommend a marine grade made for powersports. They are ok with the moisture. you can buy a T- harness and extension leads if you need.

PAC LPHFD31 LocPro Advanced T-Harness T-harness for adding an aftermarket amp, LOC, or signal processor to a select 2018-up Ford vehicle without a factory amp at Crutchfield
PAC LPHEXT17 Speaker Harness Extension 17-foot extension for a PAC LocPro Advanced T-harness at Crutchfield

As far as sub, JL audio will fit the 2 door I think it clears the cup holder but it will bust your budget. If you are handy enough you could build a box for the factory location plus make a grill. Other than that buy a factory box for there and add your woofer of choice!

 

[35tires]

You can fit a full size amp under the plastic panel on the driver side in the rear, so that's a non-issue. JL Audio makes a stealthbox for the 2 door that hides away on the passenger side but it is outside your price range.

Just a spitball build -

Mabett replacement 6.5 speaker pods on the rear rollbar - 150 bucks on amazon, I think they fit the 2 door fine. I'm sure someone on here knows for sure. If not, there are identical options in that range. I used mabett and spent 20 bucks on sound deadener to make them sound less hollow.

Up front, I did components - tweeters in place of the 4 inch speakers and the kick panels got the mid/woofer. the crossover went in the back and just required running longer speaker wire, which shouldn't be an issue.

Morel Maximo Ultra 602 mkii - 290 dollars, 100 watts rms and sound amazing with a soft tweeter so the highs won't kill you off the glass. Metal tweeters just sound awful in the bronco (to me) That sets your front stage.

Morel Maximo Ultra coax 602 mkII in the rear pods - 190 bucks but another 90 watts rms and your car is ready for a stupid amount of power so it can be LOUD.

We're at 510 dollars.

Amp: JL Audio XDM400/4. I am running the 5 channel of this right now and it's phenominal. 75 watts per channel, well paired to the speakers we picked and won't blow them as long as you tune it right, and 650 our the door.

1300ish bucks and you have a very good, very loud system. the rest is for materials, sound deadening, wiring, etc.

This is not my system. I am not a sponsor of any of these brands, have no sponsorships or anything stupid, this is just me building you something I would use while I click around crutchfield eating an apple.

 

[RagnarKon]

Let's say the budget is $1,500 and I'm doing it myself, with the help of the internet.
I can't do the tailgate sub, as it would take up too much room. Literally, when the tailgate is closed, it's up against my recovery gear and CO2 tank on that hinge side of the gate.

I haven't seen a sub that tucks into the passenger-side interior panel on a two-door. I wouldn't want the amp under a seat, as I do go out in the snow, and the whole interior can get wet. Plus, with the top off, it could rain, so protection is needed.

I think of the KickerKey mostly because there is a conversion harness ready-made for it.

Without the subwoofer. Much easier to install

• Marine-grade 300 watt 4ch. amp - $380
• 4" Speaker - $75 (dash)
• 6.5" Speakers - $90 (pods)
• 6.75" Speakers - $90 (kick panels)
• Rear speaker pods - $150
• Misc adapters/wiring/supplies - $150

With the subwoofer. You will lose the storage pocket in the cargo area on the passenger side.

• Marine-grade 650 watt 5ch. amp - $680
• (2) 4" Speaker - $75 (dash & pods)
• 6.75" Speakers - $90 (kick panels)
• Subwoofer enclosure - $350
• Subwoofer - $170
• Misc adapters/wiring/supplies - $225

There's obviously several different ways you can approach this. No one correct answer.

 

[2022 base]

You can fit a full size amp under the plastic panel on the driver side in the rear, so that's a non-issue. JL Audio makes a stealthbox for the 2 door that hides away on the passenger side but it is outside your price range.

Just a spitball build -

Mabett replacement 6.5 speaker pods on the rear rollbar - 150 bucks on amazon, I think they fit the 2 door fine. I'm sure someone on here knows for sure. If not, there are identical options in that range. I used mabett and spent 20 bucks on sound deadener to make them sound less hollow.

Up front, I did components - tweeters in place of the 4 inch speakers and the kick panels got the mid/woofer. the crossover went in the back and just required running longer speaker wire, which shouldn't be an issue.

Morel Maximo Ultra 602 mkii - 290 dollars, 100 watts rms and sound amazing with a soft tweeter so the highs won't kill you off the glass. Metal tweeters just sound awful in the bronco (to me) That sets your front stage.

Morel Maximo Ultra in the rear pods - 190 bucks but another 90 watts rms and your car is ready for a stupid amount of power and will be LOUD.

We're at 510 dollars.

Amp: JL Audio XDM400/4. I am running the 5 channel of this right now and it's phenominal. 75 watts per channel, well paired to the speakers we picked and won't blow them as long as you tune it right, and 650 our the door.

1300ish bucks and you have a very good, very loud system. the rest is for materials, sound deadening, wiring, etc. This is not the bible for a good system but I made this in 10 minutes on crutchfield while eating an apple.

I used the mabett pods on my 2 door and can confirm fit but you need to buy new bolts for the bottom spaced mount. I agree they make a huge difference after a few forscan tweeks. I like what you threw together here and agree it will be loud! I had no Idea a full size amp would fit behind driver side rear pannel, GTK.

 

[RagnarKon]

I used the mabett pods on my 2 door and can confirm fit but you need to buy new bolts for the bottom spaced mount. I agree they make a huge difference after a few forscan tweeks. I like what you threw together here and agree it will be loud! I had no Idea a full size amp would fit behind driver side rear pannel, GTK.

If you have the tow package it gets tight... as the trailer tow module is back there. Some amps will fit, some won't.

If you don't... then... well you have a bunch of spare space that normally would be taken up by the trailer tow module.

 

[mike8675309]

Great options, and it sounds like another project to get older grandkids involved in. They can help me pull out the interior and generally learn about this stuff.

I have the ford parts tow package added at the dealer after delivery. Just the 4 pin one.
Keep them coming if others have different ideas or experiences.

 

[2022 base]

If you have the tow package it gets tight... as the trailer tow module is back there. Some amps will fit, some won't.

If you don't... then... well you have a bunch of spare space that normally would be taken up by the trailer tow module.

I was thinking If I ever wanted a different larger amp for more power. I like what I have now, it can go full volume with min distortion.

 

[35tires]

If you have the tow package it gets tight... as the trailer tow module is back there. Some amps will fit, some won't.

If you don't... then... well you have a bunch of spare space that normally would be taken up by the trailer tow module.

I have a 4 door but I've fit jl audio xdm 700/5 and a lci5pro behind that panel. I bet with some wiggling and creative energy you could find the space to build a mount. That or does the passenger side have room? I don't know enough about the 2 door...

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