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I had seen those as well and thought it was a typo on the price. How are you intending to mount the tweeter assuming the 4 inch drops into the dash slot?
From the pics I have seen the tweeter cut out is next to the 4" mid in the dash...just have to be creative and sandwich the tweeter in that cut out. I may have to make an ABS mounting plate for them both.
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2.3BigBend

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The work this past weekend was all about installing some bass to even it all out and I went with the Infinity mini-bass (was a huge sale on Crutchfield, footprint is also super small).
I installed the Sound Ordnance B-8PTD quite a few years ago and was happy with it. I ran an aftermarket stereo and used RCA cables for my input. How did you tap into the factory system? I remember there was a way to do it, bot not sure of the details. Also did you mount mini-bass under a seat? Thanks!
 

VictoryLights

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There's no point to looking for connections behind the stereo, there are only high level outputs from the stereo, so tapping in at the speaker is what most (all?) of us have done.
Thank you!
 

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bi-amp is kickerā€™s term for running a fully active front stage using two of the channels for the tweeter/dash speakers and two channels for the woofers. During the key setup process with the microphone it time aligns all of the speakers and determines each speakers frequency response. The alternative setup is four full range speakers which these are not.
Ah thank you! Since the key only has 4 channels, what would your options be for the rear speakers?

I see that some are leaving them powered by the factory stereo. Wouldnā€™t that cause an issue with the time alignment of the front stage?
 

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Ah thank you! Since the key only has 4 channels, what would your options be for the rear speakers?

I see that some are leaving them powered by the factory stereo. Wouldnā€™t that cause an issue with the time alignment of the front stage?
when doing the time alignment , you fade it all the front to not interfere with the calibration. The rear are just for fill and you barely hear them at all over the fronts and subwoofer. Maybe my kids hear them in back:D
 

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I installed the Sound Ordnance B-8PTD quite a few years ago and was happy with it. I ran an aftermarket stereo and used RCA cables for my input. How did you tap into the factory system? I remember there was a way to do it, bot not sure of the details. Also did you mount mini-bass under a seat? Thanks!
You can either use a line our converter (LOC) coming off the speaker wire or some amps nowadays have built in high level (speaker) inputs. One note on the bronco is you want to tap into the front speakers (going into kickpanel speakers ) since it is a full frequency range. The speaker pods have crossover applied to them as protection so only see higher frequencies.
 

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You can either use a line our converter (LOC) coming off the speaker wire or some amps nowadays have built in high level (speaker) inputs. One note on the bronco is you want to tap into the front speakers (going into kickpanel speakers ) since it is a full frequency range. The speaker pods have crossover applied to them as protection so only see higher frequencies.
Yep, avoided the rears for this exact reason. I tapped directly into the kick wire on both L/R, ran them to the back and they neatly come out between the two seats at the deck hump.
 

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Just finished the install on my base two door this past weekend. Many thanks to the contributors of this post and especially @philjmatt for the idea of the mounting of the kicker key 200.4. This placement allowed for short runs of speaker and power & ground wires.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/base-sound-system-upgrade-build.18480/post-746171

I watched several install videos from Five Star Car Audio as well for inspiration on the kicker key wiring and tuning. Check those guys out for great instruction

Build.
Kicker Key 200.4 - running this in biamp mode to the front four inch coaxial and 6.5 inch mid bass drivers in the kick panels. Thereā€™s a factory grounding point right above the driver kickpanel speaker.

Kicker Key 500.1 - mounted under the drivers seat on an ABS plastic panel between the seat bolts. Easy to run the different wires to this location since thereā€™s a large wire run along the seat. Using seat bolt as grounding point.

Kicker CS 4inch coaxial speaker- I was going to use these for the real pods since the Morel 4 inch speakers were too deep for the dash so I had to use these in a pinch. They sound great and I might just keep them up front.

Memphis Audio 6.5 inch mid bass in the kick panels. Despite what others have said, I think the kickpanel speakers (when powered) are essential for a proper front sound stage. I went with the Memphis since itā€™s difficult to find just mid bass speakers a la cart. The sensitivity is also off the charts and was recommended by someone in this thread. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_953MJP6/Memphis-Audio-MJP6.html

DD Audio Subwoofer. Given the storage space is a premium in a two door, I needed to keep it small. These 6.5 inch subwoofers are no joke. Amazing how the technology has progressed over the years. https://ddaudio.com/series/le-s-series/?status=2&global=2

Metra harness to pull signal and then connects to the factory speaker wire for the dash 4 inch. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120725602/Metra-72-5602-Speaker-Wiring-Harness.html

Metra 6.5 speaker adapters. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120825605/Metra-82-5605-Speaker-Mounting-Brackets.html

build notes and lessons learned
  • Next time, Iā€™d run the 8 conductor speed wire rather than bundling individual speaker wires in braided loom. You have to pull signal from where the kickpanels sit and then run two sets of wires from the kicker key 200.4 to amplify the coaxials and kickpanels back to the same location. Speed wires would simplify
  • rear speaker pods. I wouldnā€™t bother with them. They are so useless to begin with, they really only provide rear fill sound. Iā€™d consider removing the pods entirely for a cleaner look. Theyā€™re currently powered by the factory radio.
  • the kicker key 200.4 uses dc offset to turn on and I ran a blue turn on wire to the 500.1 from the 200.4. Pretty slick feature of the 200.4.
  • Running the power wires through the 2 inch rubber grommet was a serious PITA.
  • Minor trimming of the kickpanel speaker grill on the inside was required for it to snap back in place.
  • I used trim removal tools for the dash speaker and still broke a retaining tab. It still snapped back into place flush though.
  • Iā€™m in for about 1400 and think it was money well spent to give the bronco a proper sound system.
  • There are better reviews on the kicker key amplifiers out there, so I wonā€™t go into those other than to say they are packed with amazing and easy to use features.

thanks again to the contributors on this thread.
Did you go with a power distribution block or did you run two power wires from the battery? What gauge wire and fuse ratings?
 

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Did you go with a power distribution block or did you run two power wires from the battery? What gauge wire and fuse ratings?
the 200.4 and 500.1 are separately placed so I ended up running two 8 gauge wires with a separate 20 and 60 amp fuse holders near the battery. The 200.4 came with a fuse holder FWIW.
 

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From the pics I have seen the tweeter cut out is next to the 4" mid in the dash...just have to be creative and sandwich the tweeter in that cut out. I may have to make an ABS mounting plate for them both.
The grill only has holes above the 4 inch speaker so offsetting a tweeter in that space might be an issue unless your going to mod the grill as well. Originally, I was thinking of a 3 inch mid and 1 inch tweeter in that space.
 

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the 200.4 and 500.1 are separately placed so I ended up running two 8 gauge wires with a separate 20 and 60 amp fuse holders near the battery. The 200.4 came with a fuse holder FWIW.
Do you just connect both power wires directly to the positive battery terminal?
 

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Those of you installing subs and amps. Are you tearing apart the entire dash to get to the speaker connections behind the stereo, or are you tapping into the channels elsewhere?
I tapped into the speaker outputs in the dash. Only need to drop the climate control panel to access. In my opinion, easier than tapping into wires at each speaker location. Limited space for splicing, but doable.
 

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I tapped into the speaker outputs in the dash. Only need to drop the climate control panel to access. In my opinion, easier than tapping into wires at each speaker location. Limited space for splicing, but doable.
šŸ¤” do we know if the dash speakers receive the same signal as the kick panels?
 

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šŸ¤” do we know if the dash speakers receive the same signal as the kick panels?
Kind of. The dash speakers are powered/wired from the kick panel speaker. Dash speakers have internal filter to remove low frequencies - much description of this in this thread.
Many have elected to separate this connection when replacing speakers. I elected to retain factory speakers and wiring configuration and simply amplify them.
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