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Benji_Allgood

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New to this thread. Just took delivery a couple days ago, and yeah the base system really needs some upgrades. Overall I think the clarity is fine, but it has no depth and the pod speakers do next to nothing. I tried to read through this, but there's a lot here, so I'm sorry if this has been answered already. Does anyone know what the deal is with those pods? Why do they sound so quiet? Should I replace those speakers, or do they just need to be amplified? Thinking of basically just starting with an under seat sub amp combo. Is this kind of upgrade worth it?
 

BFizzy

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New to this thread. Just took delivery a couple days ago, and yeah the base system really needs some upgrades. Overall I think the clarity is fine, but it has no depth and the pod speakers do next to nothing. I tried to read through this, but there's a lot here, so I'm sorry if this has been answered already. Does anyone know what the deal is with those pods? Why do they sound so quiet? Should I replace those speakers, or do they just need to be amplified? Thinking of basically just starting with an under seat sub amp combo. Is this kind of upgrade worth it?
The rear pods only receive mid and high range frequencies from the head unit. Bass is filtered out at the head unit because the 4” speakers just can’t handle bass at higher volume. The front 4” and 6.5” speakers receive the full signal from the head unit, but the 4” has an inline capacitor to only allow mid and high frequencies, again because they can’t handle the bass at higher volume.
 

da_jokker

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The rear pods only receive mid and high range frequencies from the head unit. Bass is filtered out at the head unit because the 4” speakers just can’t handle bass at higher volume. The front 4” and 6.5” speakers receive the full signal from the head unit, but the 4” has an inline capacitor to only allow mid and high frequencies, again because they can’t handle the bass at higher volume.
But what makes no sense is that the rear pods also have base blockers installed (At least that's what I recall).

So there's no reason that Ford should not be sending the full signal to the back except as a marketing ploy to get you to buy the JBL soundbar.

But as to the question..yeah its fubar. You can amplify the rear speakers to make them louder but you still won't have any base. You can amplify a sub but you have to pull from the front kickers which doesn't help the rears.

My hope is that someone figures out in forscan how to unlock the full signal to the rear pods, then you can add an amp that will power those as well as a sub if wanted.
 

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da_jokker

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They do not. The speakers in the rear have no filters on them.
Well if (stupid voice to text) that's true, that's so stupid. Why not just put filters on them like the rest, and leave the head unit alone to the people have options... Oh wait Ford... I get it. :sick: :poop:
 
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zombie

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What left that's true, that's so stupid. Why not just put filters on them like the rest, and leave the head unit alone to the people have options... Oh wait Ford... I get it. :sick: :poop:
Because the audio to the dash speakers is piggy backed off of the kick panel speakers. The kick panel speakers can handle full frequency (or at least more than the dash speakers)
 

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Because the audio to the dash speakers is piggy backed off of the kick panel speakers. The kick panel speakers can handle full frequency (or at least more than the dash speakers)
So, use the kick panel wires as the input for amp? Adjust gains for 4 channels fading front and rear volumes?
 

zombie

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So, use the kick panel wires as the input for amp? Adjust gains for 4 channels fading front and rear volumes?
Yes, definitely use the kick panel feed for any amp, but make sure you either use a line converter or an amp with high level inputs.
 

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Yes, definitely use the kick panel feed for any amp, but make sure you either use a line converter or an amp with high level inputs.
Yes. I believe the amp I have chosen has high level adjustable input from 0.2V -9V
 

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Yes. I believe the amp I have chosen has high level adjustable input from 0.2V -9V
TOTAL CHANNELS
5
AUDIO INPUTS
RCA
POWER TERMINAL 12V/GND
Molex 10 ga
SPEAKER TERMINAL WIRE GAUGE
Molex Plug Connector
FUSING
1 x 40 Amps
CERTIFICATIONS
Marine & Powersports
Ultra Compact design built for powersports applications
Marine and powersports certified
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 40 watts x 4 chan., 100 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 80 watts x 4 chan., 200 watts x 1 chan.
Total power output: 500 watts
Pulse Width Modulated MOSFET power supply
Wired remote bass level control included
LED power (green) and protect (red) indicators
Soft start turn-on
5/4/2 channel operation
Speaker-level (high-level) inputs
Preamp RCA outputs to daisy chain multiple amps
 

da_jokker

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Fahadrb

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What change do you guys think is worth it and would make the biggest difference?

I want better sound quality but I don’t want to mess with the cables and wiring much for one major reason:

I’m in a unique situation as I’m from the middle east where most of y’all are from the US. Dealers in the middle east are shitty to say the least and would discontinue the car’s warranty if they detected any change from stock. I’m hoping they won’t detect just a speaker change but additional changes may affect the warranty.

Also I’m just looking for an easy but impactful change to the speakers and nothing too complicated.
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