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Changed my order after driving 3 different models

Mattwings

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I drove a manual BL with stock 33s and I don't know what you're talking about. That thing ran like a stabbed rat. 100% they put the 35s on and didn't re-gear.
That’s was my immediate take as well. The 2.3 with 35s I drove (BB SQ) was just fine power wise. Way to much tire for those gears.
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Pressurized

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That's exactly what I'm talking about.

He drove a Big Bend with 4.46 gears and 35" tires and hated it.

Now he wants to buy a Base with 3.73 gears and put his own 35" tires on it?

Doesn't make sense.
Yep, non 4.7 gears but then lift and add 35's? Going to be junk with the 2.3... Not going to be good with the 2.7 either. 4.46 is better than 3.73, but on the path to disappointment.
 

Dads_bronze_bronco

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@Bifftws

So thinking this through:

You drove a four door BB manual with a 4.46 axle ratio designed for 30s or 32s on 35s and couldn’t drive in 6th gear. (Neither can my JKUR on 34’s with gearing designed for 32’s—6th only on flats or downhills and not for passing …)

Then you compared it to a two door WT 10AT with 4.7 ratio designed for 35s.

Then you selected a two door Base with 2.7 and 10AT with 3.73 ratio and intend to go to 35’s?

If you had tested a BL manual on 33’s with a 4.7 ratio or on 35’s with a 5.13 (or even a 4.88), then you would have had a more direct compare.

As it is, what you ordered will need to be regeared to 4.7s (M-4209-470RF for the M-190 front, and M-3002-470BF for the M-220 rear) if you go to 35’s to drive in the right gear.
 
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Bifftws

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Just a follow up on the manual with 35". I had a JK wrangler for 5 years with the 3.6 Pentastar, manual, 3:73 gears and 33" tires. That drove much better than the Granger build with 35"s. The Jeep didn't struggle like the Bronco did. Due to money issues I will probably have to put 275/70/r17s on the base with the 2.7 to make it drive correctly. Unless someone comes out with an after market ratio that is cost effective compared to jumping up to the squatch.
 

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@Bifftws

So thinking this through:

You drove a four door BB manual with a 4.46 axle ratio designed for 30s or 32s on 35s and couldn’t drive in 6th gear. (Neither can my JKUR on 34’s with gearing designed for 32’s—6th only on flats or downhills and not for passing …)

Then you compared it to a two door WT 10AT with 4.7 ratio designed for 35s.

Then you selected a two door Base with 2.7 and 10AT with 3.73 ratio and intend to go to 35’s?

If you had tested a BL manual on 33’s with a 4.7 ratio or on 35’s with a 5.13 (or even a 4.88), then you would have had a more direct compare.

As it is, what you ordered will need to be regeared to 4.7s (M-4209-470RF for the M-190 front, and M-3002-470BF for the M-220 rear) if you go to 35’s to drive in the right gear.
If I plan on 37’, 2dr base Sasquatch 2.7, you think I need to change something? Or it will handle it?
 

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So you think that a gearing change of 5% really is the difference?!? Hmmm... Not so sure about that. (We're talking 4.46 vs 4.7), now a difference of 20% (3.73 vs 4.7) would be far more significant.
This. The idea that manual with 4.46 and 35s would be a dog, but fine with a small change to 4.7, is questionable. Which is why I've been asking for a while now and suspecting, the base mansquatch will need deeper than 4.7 gears.

The manual gearing has perplexed me since first anounced. 4.46 diffs seem too deep for stock base tire diameter. And to keep the same overall engine rpm with Sas 35s, would require more than 4.7.
 

kodiakisland

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The 4cyl is not “revved out” at 4K rpms. Plenty of people are going to complain about lack of power if they are trying to stay below 3K rpms. Shifting in traffic for any kind of acceleration should be well over 3K rpms.
 

john houseman

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The 4cyl is not “revved out” at 4K rpms. Plenty of people are going to complain about lack of power if they are trying to stay below 3K rpms. Shifting in traffic for any kind of acceleration should be well over 3K rpms.
Automatics are just that, automatic. When you have a manual, the driver is in control. Choosing the gear for acceleration becomes his job, and manuals usually have fewer gear ratio's to choose from. The 2.3 manual will never compare to a 2.7 auto in stock form, but that doesn't mean it's bad. Aftermarket equipment has to be installed with some forethought to compatibility. I don't think there was much of that here.
 

AZshot

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Several things going on here.

Until vehicles started getting the huge power to weight ratio they have recently, you would never try to accelerate OR use cruise control in the mountains/hills in what we used to call "overdrive". That gear is just to let the engine lug and get good mileage and quieter ride. You always downshifted in those days, if going over about 60MPH.

Wind resistance is a huge factor, it goes up logarithmically as speed increases. Let's say at 50 MPH you have a 10:1 power to weight ratio *. At 70 MPH you have maybe a 8:1, at 80 you have a 6:1 . That's why breaking the sound barrier was so hard. All that atmosphere is easy to push a brick through at 50 MPH, but you get up to today's highway speeds of 75 or more....you lose a ton of power. Downshift of get a Corvette or Raptor if you want to just hit the gas and leave it in overdrive.

And like people have said, these high revving turbos need to ....um...be reved. Like a 1970s Honda CB750, you have to downshift and hit the gas to feel any power. It's not a V8 or a Vtwin.

*ratios made up for example purposes.
 

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Same the Sasquatch vs base ride won me over 100% and the 2.7 in this is much quicker than my 2020 f150 just due to vehicle weight.

im ready!!
 

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I have a similar question. Looks like I am ordering a BL with the 2.7 eco, 33's and the 4.46 rear. If I ever get to test drive one with 35's on some rocks and I like it, I may stick some 35's on it when we are off road. Larger tire gives me different gear- maybe a 4.2? See any problems with that?

If not then what about a 37" tire? What effective gear ratio would you expect and performance off road and on the rocks?
No high speed stuff- just trails in CO. Only high speed would be to and from the trails...
 

Uintafly

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I have a similar question. Looks like I am ordering a BL with the 2.7 eco, 33's and the 4.46 rear. If I ever get to test drive one with 35's on some rocks and I like it, I may stick some 35's on it when we are off road. Larger tire gives me different gear- maybe a 4.2? See any problems with that?

If not then what about a 37" tire? What effective gear ratio would you expect and performance off road and on the rocks?
No high speed stuff- just trails in CO. Only high speed would be to and from the trails...
I’m gonna bump this last question. This is going to be my wife’s daily driver and our weekend fun haver. She was a little worried about the size of the squatch package so we split the difference and got the Badlands with the 2.7. But I tested a squatch the other day and I’m having a bit of buyers remorse. I have a sneaking suspicion that I will end up with 35’s in the next few years. Would 35’s with the 4.46 gears and the 2.7 be any less powerful than if I had the 2.3 with 4.7 gears?
 
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I’m gonna bump this last question. This is going to be my wife’s daily driver and our weekend fun haver. She was a little worried about the size of the squatch package so we split the difference and got the Badlands with the 2.7. But I tested a squatch the other day and I’m having a bit of buyers remorse. I have a sneaking suspicion that I will end up with 35’s in the next few years. Would 35’s with the 4.46 gears and the 2.7 be any less powerful than if I had the 2.3 with 4.7 gears?
The 2.7 comes standard with 3:73 gears without a rear locker or non sasquatch, 4:27 gears with rear locker at the Big Bend level., 4:46 I believe at the Badlands and 4:7 with the squatch. I drove 2 different 2.7 demos, a 2 door outer bank with 3:73 and a Wildtrack with 4:7 which comes standard with the squatch. The 2.7 can handle either one with bigger tires but the 4:7 rear diff was more responsive and more fun over the 3:73 gears in the outbanks. Daily driving I don't know if you would notice a big difference unless you on the gas a fair amount. Definitely differences in suspension, the non squatch suspension was easier to drive on the road and had a lot less body roll. I haven't been able to drive a demo with the 4:27 or 4:46 gears but I am guessing eityher would be a good compromise between the other two. A base 2 door with 2.7 squatch is about the same price as a big bend 2.7 with a rear locker so I ordered the base 2.7 squatch as I liked the way it drove the best. Probably not the best set up as a daily due to 17 mpg combined and floaty suspension on the road but I like vehicles that drive more like an off road rig than a family SUV.
 

Uintafly

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The 2.7 only comes standard with 3:73 gears without a rear locker or non sasquatch, 4:27 gears with rear locker, and 4:7 with the squatch. I drove 2 different 2.7 demos, a 2 door outer bank with 3:73 and a Wildtrack with 4:7 which comes standard with the squatch. The 2.7 can handle either one with bigger tires but the 4:7 rear diff was more responsive and more fun over the 3:73 gears in the outbanks. Daily driving I don't know if you would notice a big difference unless you on the gas a fair amount. Definitely differences in suspension, the non squatch suspension was easier to drive on the road and had a lot less body roll. I haven't been able to drive a demo with the 4:27 gears but I am guessing it would be a good compromise between the other two. A base 2 door with 2.7 squatch is about the same price as a big bend 2.7 with a rear locker so I ordered the base 2.7 squatch as I liked the way it drove the best. Probably not the best set up as a daily due to 17 mpg combined and floaty suspension on the road but I like vehicles that drive more like an off road rig than a family SUV.
On the Badlands the 10 speed Congress standard with the 4.46 and near identical suspension as the Sasquatch. The only real difference is the bigger tires, slight change in Frank and a >1” lift.
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