Exploring off-the-shelf tie rod upgrades

[broadicustomworks]

Thanks for all this R&D work, Dick.
Ordered a set of 2 Ranger inners and 1 pc of the Camaro outer for emergency trail use if needed.

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[Tricky Dick]

Thanks for all this R&D work, Dick.
Ordered a set of 2 Ranger inners and 1 pc of the Camaro outer for emergency trail use if needed.

The Camaro should (I need to verify it personally before I can recommend it) work in conjunction with a F150 inner, not the Ranger inner. Ordering up a pair myself and if it works will convert over to the Tricky Rods™ myself and use my stockers as trail spares.

 

[broadicustomworks]

The Camaro should (I need to verify it personally before I can recommend it) work in conjunction with a F150 inner, not the Ranger inner. Ordering up a pair myself and if it works will convert over to the Tricky Rods™ myself and use my stockers as trail spares.

Gotcha.
I got my wires crossed in there somewhere then.
I'll hold onto it, just in case or until I upgrade to the F150 inner, then keep stocks as spares like you suggest. A nanometer of ream on the knuckle doesn't scare me.

 

[Tricky Dick]

A nanometer of ream on the knuckle doesn't scare me.

Me either, but if these chevy ones work that won't even be needed. I'm pretty stoked right now for a bolt together, off the shelf upgrade, for $100-200 depending on the quality you choose.

 

[GreyZ]

Thanks for looking that up. I'd have to double check, but I believe we actually need 12mm and the older F150 is 14mm. That Buick one I posted fits those parameters. (also fits Camaro, so you know they'll be available til the end of time)

Check and see. My bronco has not shown up yet so I cannot check. All of the videos I have seen show that a 21mm socket is needed for the outer tie rod end. A standard M14 nut uses a 21mm socket. If it was M12 it would use a 19mm socket. This obviously is less accurate than just measuring, but that not an option for me at the moment.

 

[Tricky Dick]

Check and see. My bronco has not shown up yet so I cannot check. All of the videos I have seen show that a 21mm socket is needed for the outer tie rod end. A standard M14 nut uses a 21mm socket. If it was M12 it would use a 19mm socket. This obviously is less accurate than just measuring, but that not an option for me at the moment.

I'm just going off the known specs of the F150 outer, it's published as 14mm and the threads won't pass through the Bronco knuckle. I'll measure them and clear this up tonight when I get home.

 

[Tricky Dick]

Well looky here. If you just want HD inners and don't mind the heims.

https://camburg.com/shop/suspension...iWZy8XDBWfvxj_utoqLtommaVgkHphnbn1kviio3SwpxA

 

[RainbowStix]

Just checking in here… Has anybody broken with the BroncBuster solutions installed yet or is it still a boogieman story?

 

[cjindna]

Well looky here. If you just want HD inners and don't mind the heims.

https://camburg.com/shop/suspension...iWZy8XDBWfvxj_utoqLtommaVgkHphnbn1kviio3SwpxA

Hmm will have to do some digging to see if their SS alloy will offer a greater shear strength vs the F150 at the larger diameter. Certainly an interesting solution.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

Well I got my RC knuckle installed, and now my tie rod is STRAIGHT....here some pics...It looks like this will not only relieve stress on the tie rod but also the rack.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

I took off the Fabtech UCAs because the uniball has LESS angle available than the OEM ball joint....so for all the fools selling this crap try using shit that's better than OEM not worse. Probably the only ones worth a shit are the ICONS that use factory ball joint.

The OEM UCA joint has nearly 80 degrees of movement!

And for those that think new UCAs with these uni balls or heims with misalignment caps, are bad-ass super shit...here's a clue... THERE JUNK!

Here's some pics ...

 

[Tricky Dick]

Well I got my RC knuckle installed, and now my tie rod is STRAIGHT....here some pics...It looks like this will not only relieve stress on the tie rod but also the rack.

I can't wait to hear how it drives.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

4x4. I'm guessing it is to clear the knuckle at full lock. I believe I'll have to run it offset to the front to clear our knuckle too.

Actually the S shape is to clear the wheel...if you run a big enough offset you could have straight tie rods with zero interference.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

The Camaro should (I need to verify it personally before I can recommend it) work in conjunction with a F150 inner, not the Ranger inner. Ordering up a pair myself and if it works will convert over to the Tricky Rods™ myself and use my stockers as trail spares.

Well as soon as this is sorted out , I'll buy a set of Tricky Dicks HD T-Rods....I'm not opposed to opening up the taper ESPECIALLY if it means we are getting a bigger ball joint too? Maybe try sourcing some reamers or taper cutters in bulk-buy to include with the Tricky Rods? Just an idea.

 

[BAUS67]

I took off the Fabtech UCAs because the uniball has LESS angle available than the OEM ball joint....so for all the fools selling this crap try using shit that's better than OEM not worse. Probably the only ones worth a shit are the ICONS that use factory ball joint.

The OEM UCA joint has nearly 80 degrees of movement!

And for those that think new UCAs with these uni balls or heims with misalignment caps, are bad-ass super shit...here's a clue... THERE JUNK!

Here's some pics ...

Zone Off Road's UCA also uses the OEM ball joint. And won't break the bank.

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