Have non lockers, looking to upgrade.

[Brian_B]

I also wondered if it would be possible to utilize "trail turn assist" on a spinning wheel to get that locker-like action. Never tried it -- has anyone???

Can you get TTA in a package without having a locker? That said, I know if you have upgraded your tires, TTA can shred your driveline.

2) I got the impression that a sway-bar disconnect is almost as important as a locker... as it keeps the wheels on the ground. Seemed like a cheaper way to go.

You can very easily remove the sway bar in the field (or before you go out) with just a wrench - it's just two bolts. It's nice having it automatic, but it's not hard to do manually either. You can also drive around pretty much normally with it off, so it is something you could do before you drive out on a trip if you wanted to.

You are 100% correct about the trade-in cost - it isn't free for certain. But if you want to add front and rear lockers to a vehicle without any, it still would probably work out to your advantage.

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[Disciple Mike]

Howdy all

When i initially built my rig from the factory i opted out of the lockers. I didn't see myself in a scenario where i could justify the extra costs. Now as time goes on i have grown to regret my decision.

Is anyone aware of a reasonable process of swapping over to lockers and if they can be wired into the factory switches if purchased?

Any information would very much appreciated, ive seen prices for the axles, im more curious if anyone has found it to be a reasonable process.

Thank you team!

Just adding an additional perspective here… I’ve found myself in a similar thought pattern, wanting to have some additional capability if needed. When I ordered our Bronco in 2021, Sasquatch was a big constraint, and I thought the Bronco would have a better traction control system for off road use, similar to Toyota’s A-TRAC. Turned out not to be the case. Anyways, to make a long story short, I decided to put an Eaton Truetrac (limited slip differential) in the rear. Maybe something for you to consider. Will require a new ring and pinion gear but no wiring or switches.

 

[Owl]

I decided to put an Eaton Truetrac (limited slip differential) in the rear. Maybe something for you to consider. Will require a new ring and pinion gear but no wiring or switches.

Does Eaton Truetrac come in 3.73?

 

[Brian_B]

Will require a new ring and pinion gear but no wiring or switches. Does Eaton Truetrac come in 3.73?

The TrueTrac replaces the carrier, the new ring/pinion are what determine your ratio - so you just buy a new 3.73 ring/pinion set. That and a new set of bearings and you would be set up for major components. It would still need to be shimmed properly, which is what prevents me from trying this in my driveway.

 

[Aonarch]

Instead of trading up, go ahead and spend the money on the Spicer FDU and CVs. You can use the Ford Performance switched for the lockers. They typically install in front of the shifter.

Then the rear end, either go with a FP crate axle, or just re gear it with the OE locker.

 

[GoHack]

Go w/a Limited-Slip for the Rear,
They're cheaper, automatic, and they're available 100% of the time, dirt, pavement, snow, ice, and rain while Lockers have their limitations as to when they can be used like on gravel and perhaps heavy snow.

 

[orion]

Or just buy a winch and a winch bumper. Self recover if you get stuck. I doubt you'll need lockers overlanding, it could help in some situations but I think a winch is better money spent in your scenario.

2wd, you get stuck, your not that far out. 4wd you get stuck further out and more stuck. Lockers, your even further out and really stuck, now you need a winch or a buddy with a winch. I would get a winch first. Eventually you'll need that winch.

 

[Owl]

Actually... that is very good advice regarding the winch. Thanks!

 

[OregonMike]

Can you get TTA in a package without having a locker?

Yes. My '21 Big Bend 4d/2.3/Mid doesn't have lockers, but does have Trail Turn Assist.

 

[OregonMike]

B) On the Las Vegas Rodeo... I came back with these two impressions:
1) You can lock the spinning wheel a bit through decent brake control. Maybe not a locker... but it is something to try 1st. I also wondered if it would be possible to utilize "trail turn assist" on a spinning wheel to get that locker-like action. Never tried it -- has anyone???

Lockerless Big Bender here, and I've done some of what I expect most folks here would consider mild-to-moderate off-roading here in Oregon (a step or two beyond just FS roads). I'm a bit of a noob - the Nevada Off-Roadeo was the first real experience I had doing anything like this.
I've used Trail Control - not TTA (which I have), and not 1-pedal drive (which I don't have) - after seeing that TFL video where the guy tried it out on his 3-wheel slip test, and it has worked for me in a couple of off-camber situations where I found myself slipping. Tried it a couple times to get unstuck from snow and that worked as well (not every time, though).
Obviously it's no substitute for locking diffs, but it's been handy enough for what I usually get out and do.

 

[Owl]

Lockerless Big Bender here, and I've done some of what I expect most folks here would consider mild-to-moderate off-roading here in Oregon (a step or two beyond just FS roads). I'm a bit of a noob - the Nevada Off-Roadeo was the first real experience I had doing anything like this.
I've used Trail Control - not TTA (which I have), and not 1-pedal drive (which I don't have) - after seeing that TFL video where the guy tried it out on his 3-wheel slip test, and it has worked for me in a couple of off-camber situations where I found myself slipping. Tried it a couple times to get unstuck from snow and that worked as well (not every time, though).
Obviously it's no substitute for locking diffs, but it's been handy enough for what I usually get out and do.

OregonMike -- thanks for the info. Nice to see some real-time experience with braking.

 

[CMillBronco]

Easiest option by far are the Ford Performance crate rear ends, and the cost is about on par with trying to use your existing standard rear end to install a locker

If you just want a rear locker - pick the one that matches the gear ratio you already have, and you don’t have to touch the front end. It’s a relatively easy swap, you just add a switch and no programming or need for a speciality shop. Should be all in less than $3,000 going this route. With the exception of the 3.73 ratio… for some reason. Ford doesn’t have the Dana 44 crate in that ratio.

Takeoffs are an option as well, if you can find one.

If you want front and rear, it gets much more expensive. At that point trading up is your best bet.

I was curious at what the cost would actually be to just add a rear locker and stay 3.73. $4200 for ELocker and $5400 for ARB Air Locker installed, OUCH. So the crate option is the way to go but pushing $6k is just too much for what we do.

BUT this did get me thinking if I did stay with 3.73 I could do a crate M220 in 4.46 for $1750 then re-gear it to 3.73, should be able to be done for under $2500.

 

[Owl]

I wonder if the Ranger had a 3.73 with the eLocker (entire axle + diff assembly)... and whether it would fit. Never looked into it thoough.

 

[2022 base]

I was curious at what the cost would actually be to just add a rear locker and stay 3.73. $4200 for ELocker and $5400 for ARB Air Locker installed, OUCH. So the crate option is the way to go but pushing $6k is just too much for what we do.

BUT this did get me thinking if I did stay with 3.73 I could do a crate M220 in 4.46 for $1750 then re-gear it to 3.73, should be able to be done for under $2500.

If the locker is $1400 and gear set $250, why is it so much installed?

 

[CMillBronco]

If the locker is $1400 and gear set $250, why is it so much installed?

haven't gotten the breakdown yet but will share when I do.

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