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BroncoDude

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Installed the key 200.4 last night and it is awesome. Only complaint is that the radio button tones and door/seatbelt chimes are at supersonic loud levels. How do I fix that?
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DaveInSA

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Installed my key 200.4 today using the plugnplay harness. I'm surprised it still requires the amp to use DC bias to know to turn on instead of a switched 12v line.
I had the doors open and closing while buttoning everything back up and just from opening the doors it would turn electronics on in the dash and trigger the amp to come on and make the speakers pop.. and then again when shutting off or something.
Could be annoying.

Was in an empty quiet parking lot, started the auto setup and surprise! two blackhawk helicopters come flying low and slow overhead. Tried aborting the setup by opening the door and turning off the car.. took a minute for the radio to shut off. I'd been playing the pink noise via a usb stick. Evidently the usb stick became corrupted by doing that. Had to play it via bluetooth from my phone.

fun times.

Doesn't seem to be a huge difference from stock.. I've also replaced all the speakers with kicker.
It'll be better when my woofer and amp get here though.
 

DaveInSA

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having the same issues . after a while at 25-30 comes in and out. think amp over heats. idk yet just installed.
Isn't 25-30 like. REALLY FLIPPING HIGH? Maybe the head unit is overheating and cutting out, not the amp.
 

cmcbronco

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Installed my key 200.4 today using the plugnplay harness. I'm surprised it still requires the amp to use DC bias to know to turn on instead of a switched 12v line.
I had the doors open and closing while buttoning everything back up and just from opening the doors it would turn electronics on in the dash and trigger the amp to come on and make the speakers pop.. and then again when shutting off or something.
Could be annoying.

Was in an empty quiet parking lot, started the auto setup and surprise! two blackhawk helicopters come flying low and slow overhead. Tried aborting the setup by opening the door and turning off the car.. took a minute for the radio to shut off. I'd been playing the pink noise via a usb stick. Evidently the usb stick became corrupted by doing that. Had to play it via bluetooth from my phone.

fun times.

Doesn't seem to be a huge difference from stock.. I've also replaced all the speakers with kicker.
It'll be better when my woofer and amp get here though.
Make sure your radio detect button is on. That will stop the popping.
 

TXArea51

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I ordered kit 1 I’m just going to add an amp for the time being
 

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cmcbronco

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Isn't 25-30 like. REALLY FLIPPING HIGH? Maybe the head unit is overheating and cutting out, not the amp.
Ya I haven’t turned mine up more than 16 and that was full speed down the highway with the top off. The wife complained it hurt her ears lol.
 

Biff

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I ordered kit 11-4 from PNPK and a Kicker Key 200.4 and Kicker 11HSB8 from Crutchfield and plan to install the amp using the PNPK this weekend and then have the local audio shop install the sub sometime next week. I have already replaced all four 4” speakers with Infinity Reference 4032CFX which did make a difference from stock. I used 300 Hz bass blockers on the dash speakers only. Will the rear pods need bass blockers as well once I add the 200.4? I understand the head unit filters the rear pod speakers originally, but am worried once I install the 200.4 it will send much more signal to the rears (which would be great), but I definitely do not want to damage the rears. Thanks in advance.
 

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I ordered kit 11-4 from PNPK and a Kicker Key 200.4 and Kicker 11HSB8 from Crutchfield and plan to install the amp using the PNPK this weekend and then have the local audio shop install the sub sometime next week. I have already replaced all four 4” speakers with Infinity Reference 4032CFX which did make a difference from stock. I used 300 Hz bass blockers on the dash speakers only. Will the rear pods need bass blockers as well once I add the 200.4? I understand the head unit filters the rear pod speakers originally, but am worried once I install the 200.4 it will send much more signal to the rears (which would be great), but I definitely do not want to damage the rears. Thanks in advance.
I ordered the same kit, lets hope everything will work better than expected. ( question did your kit included the actual RCAs for the bass amp? )
 

DaveInSA

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Make sure your radio detect button is on. That will stop the popping.
Ah-ha! It is not. I copied what I saw on someone's here and just switch 1 was down.
I'll flip it on. Thanks
 

Biff

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I ordered the same kit, lets hope everything will work better than expected. ( question did your kit included the actual RCAs for the bass amp? )
I hope so too. My PNPK 11-4 did not include RCA cables, so I elected to add the Kicker speaker wire to RCA adapter kit when I ordered the sub from Crutchfield. Hopefully that will be everything needed, but still unsure if bass blockers (300 Hz or 600 Hz) will be needed for rear pods.
 

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Anyone with the Key 200.4 running into limiter issues? At 20/30 volume and gains zerod out I am hitting the limiter. Any addition to the gains and it’s riding it constantly. I feel like the speakers aren’t being pushed enough, the sound is alright but not a significant improvement over stock.
I have the gains turned all the way down and the limiter keeps kicking in also. I have Hertz dash door and rears.
 

Johnnunez29

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Isn't 25-30 like. REALLY FLIPPING HIGH? Maybe the head unit is overheating and cutting out, not the amp.
Not really. I may be a little hard of hearing lol. I like my music LOUD. I wouldnt call myself an audiophile becuase i dont do it often, but ive always done all my cars up completely myself . Trying to keep this one as "stock" looking as possible. But i kind of feel the amp hidden may not be getting the air it needs to operate correctly.
 

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I hope so too. My PNPK 11-4 did not include RCA cables, so I elected to add the Kicker speaker wire to RCA adapter kit when I ordered the sub from Crutchfield. Hopefully that will be everything needed, but still unsure if bass blockers (300 Hz or 600 Hz) will be needed for rear pods.
That’s a good question 300 or 600 Hz. I know for the dash speakers 300Hz will work but the rear pods Im not sure, hopefully they will be fine, I will be ordering 300Hz my self.
 

KeithK

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That’s a good question 300 or 600 Hz. I know for the dash speakers 300Hz will work but the rear pods Im not sure, hopefully they will be fine, I will be ordering 300Hz my self.
I did not put bass blockers in the rear pods. Unfortunately you don’t really hear them upfront anyway.
 

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Installed the key 200.4 last night and it is awesome. Only complaint is that the radio button tones and door/seatbelt chimes are at supersonic loud levels. How do I fix that?
Turn the volume down ;)

Maybe through Forscan?
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