Leveling kit install has kicked my a$$!

[Big E Tacocat]

Seeing mangled CV threads/splined has me worried now. Can we bring this to Ford’s attention somehow so they can trace it to whoever at the factory isn’t doing it right? or let them figure out why this is happening. Most of us who take delivery aren’t going take off an axle to check the threads.

How many ft/lbs of torque does your electric impact have or what made it hard? I got one with 650ft/lbs and I hear that’s pretty much enough to work on the toughest axle nut or wheel hub nut, should come right off at that torque right?

I called Ford’s customer service number asking about some warranty help on this. They told me to go through the parts manager at the dealer. Not sure if I’m going to get any help but they haven’t said no yet. If anything Ford needs to know about it. Lol this will probably end up being a recall in the future knowing my luck.

oh yeah 650lb ft is enough. I use the Milwaukee 1/2” impact which is similar if I remember correctly. It took it off no problem

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[kodiakisland]

This was my question on another thread since icon’s spacer instructions also say to remove the LCA. I was wondering the advantage/disadvantages of both methods. Thanks for clearing that up!

Still curious on the LCA removal method from
the frame… is there a concern with the angle it puts the cv axle at since it’s literally drooping it outside of the normal travel arc when it gets disconnected and dropped below the frame?

No worries as you are still connected to the UCA. Basically stays at full droop.

 

[RainbowStix]

No worries as you are still connected to the UCA. Basically stays at full droop.

I may be in over my head trying to work on the front suspension especially, but can you explain how to remove the LCA? It looks like the bolts are on there pretty tight (a 21 bolt and a 24 nut). Do we have to support/jack it while we’re removing the frame bolts or? Is it hard to put back on/take off by yourself? Can we use an impact on the 21mm bolt to remove it?

most I’ve found on removing is step 5 in these instructions that Literally just say to remove it:
https://images.iconfigurators.app/pdf/Icon_Dynamics/IVD4300_REVB.pdf

 

[Hudman316]

This kind of stuff happens often with DIY projects. You’re better off hiring a professional 4X4 shop that offers a warranty on their work.

 

[BottleShark]

I may be in over my head trying to work on the front suspension especially, but can you explain how to remove the LCA? It looks like the bolts are on there pretty tight (a 21 bolt and a 24 nut). Do we have to support/jack it while we’re removing the frame bolts or? Is it hard to put back on/take off by yourself? Can we use an impact on the 21mm bolt to remove it?

most I’ve found on removing is step 5 in these instructions that Literally just say to remove it:
https://images.iconfigurators.app/pdf/Icon_Dynamics/IVD4300_REVB.pdf

Maybe I'm wrong, but seems like removing the ball joint would be easier.
Rough country even shows it that way in their kit.
921404000.pdf

 

[Jhuff]

This is why many of us remove the rear LCA bolts when removing the coilovers and leave the axle alone. Seems faster and less likely to mess anything up.

I agree but I think I still would've had trouble since the CV wasn't fully seated

I unbolted my LCA completely and definitely recommend that method. But like Big E said, if it wasn't seated in the first place, there are no guarantees.

I was pretty rough with my LCA and didn't pull the axle. I thought I was lucky... Now I'm thinking the guys with that issue (thinking they accidentally pulled the axle) may have had the issue from the factory.

This was my question on another thread since icon’s spacer instructions also say to remove the LCA. I was wondering the advantage/disadvantages of both methods. Thanks for clearing that up!

Still curious on the LCA removal method from
the frame… is there a concern with the angle it puts the cv axle at since it’s literally drooping it outside of the normal travel arc when it gets disconnected and dropped below the frame?

I may be in over my head trying to work on the front suspension especially, but can you explain how to remove the LCA? It looks like the bolts are on there pretty tight (a 21 bolt and a 24 nut). Do we have to support/jack it while we’re removing the frame bolts or? Is it hard to put back on/take off by yourself? Can we use an impact on the 21mm bolt to remove it?

most I’ve found on removing is step 5 in these instructions that Literally just say to remove it:
https://images.iconfigurators.app/pdf/Icon_Dynamics/IVD4300_REVB.pdf

Taking the LCA out of it's arc if travel is the benefit of doing it this way. The only damage from extreme angles would happen if you were driving with them at extreme angles.

The fear was that dropping the LCA low while still hinged would pullt the axle out slightly. With the LCA bolts removed, the LCA is free to swing down, and in, rather than just down.

Yes you need to have the frame supported to drop the LCAs (edit: but that wasn't your question, oops. The upper control arm will keep the LCA from dropping far, you will actually have to push it further to do the work). Getting them off is a snap, getting them back on is tough by yourself, but doable. I can't find the video right now but one of the kit-install videos shows it.

Basically:
1) Mark the alignment/position of the LCA bolts on the washers and frame with paint pen or sharpie. Both sides of every bolt.

2) Remove the nuts off of the LCA bolts, and wiggle the bolts out. The upper ball joint will keep the LCA from dropping to the ground. Keep the LCA bolts in order and oriented the right way for reinstall ("before" pictures help in case you kick them across the garage). The order and marks are necessary to get you close to factory alignment when reinstalling.

3) Reinstallation is tough. Plan on having some long round shaft screwdrivers or punches to help align the holes and keep alignment while pushing up on the other side of the LCA with a jack. Once close, I found that the jack was more likely to push the LCA the wrong way, and that arm power was all that was needed.

4) Install and slightly tighten the LCA bolts. The final adjustment and torqueing needs to be done with the weight of the truck on the LCAs, at normal ride height.

5) Tightening those bolts and backing them up (keeping your paint marks lined up) is tough. Getting ~200ftlbs of torque on those bolts at ride height, is almost impossible with the space you have to work with.

I gave up and rattled them tight with an impact, and will let the guy doing the final alignment worry about torque.

 

[Big E Tacocat]

This kind of stuff happens often with DIY projects. You’re better off hiring a professional 4X4 shop that offers a warranty on their work.

I actually enjoy doing the work myself I imagine lots of others do too. Shops are weeks out around here and if I do the work I know it’s done right

 

[Hudman316]

I actually enjoy doing the work myself I imagine lots of others do too. Shops are weeks out around here and if I do the work I know it’s done right

I understand. I enjoy working on things too and it’s cool as long as you realize you’re going to damage things in the process because you’re going to make mistakes due to inexperience and not having the proper tools. I spent the past 27+ years in the construction and maintenance trades (Millwright). I learned a lot as an apprentice by making mistakes.

 

[BroncoU812]

Had no clue the axle nuts were supposed to be single use but had the same issue when putting some four door sas coilovers on my 2dr black diamond. Went to put the axle nuts back on and no bueno. Just a warning if anyone messes with it, but these axles are superrrrr soft. Ended up running a die over them, and tapped the axle nuts out.

Also a warning for anyone attempting a swap out at home but don't tighten the bolts down on top of the coilovers too hard. I snapped one of the three bolts on top clean off. Oh well, live and learn

 

[JT58Bronc]

Geez this sounds like a nightmare. I have had many 4 X 4's over the last 45 plus years and never really went with a lift kit or leveling kit on any of them. I wanted to especially on my 97 Jeep Wrangler and my 2019 Silverado. I read the installation instructions over and over from many different manufacturers and decided against it. It's seemed so straight forward on my 97 Wrangler although reading about slip yoke eliminators possibly being needed, etc. and it tracking and riding so well stock, I left it as is. Same with my Silverado. I did think about going with a base, bare bones Bronco and doing the lift thing, bigger ties, etc. but so glad I went with Sasquatch. Done, no mods needed at at all, rides and tracks perfect, no working on something brand new with new designs, etc.

 

[BroncoAZ]

Looking to install a leveling kit soon. Thanks for the warning on the axle nuts and axles.

 

[sniffHound]

Sorry this is so tough. I couldn’t get close to installing a leveling kit.

I can fix most anything though.

The axle nut galled up the threads on my axle shaft when removing it which is obviously a giant pain but turns out it's not my biggest problem, also my CV joint separated when I leaned the knuckle to remove the strut. Which is also not the biggest problem of the job. Ordered a tool from Amazon that fits in a Dremel that restores threads- which works great if anyone has the same trouble I've had. Ordered new axle nuts from Ford which were surprisingly only $3 bucks each. While talking to the parts guy he asked if I worked at a local 4x4 shop? Come to find out the local shop had ordered two nuts and a new axle. I called them to see if I could buy a nut from them since mine was dead in the water. They've got two down in the shop for the same reason. Lol I didn't feel near as bad hearing I'm not the only one having trouble. Picked up the nuts I ordered and attempted to put her all back together but the axle just wouldn't go back together. Tried for a while with no luck. Decided to clean up the shaft to see if there was a keyed spline or something I was missing and I found the problem.

Emergency ordered an axle shaft hopefully I get it Monday or Tuesday. What a mess! How the heck did this axle shaft get so hammered in less than 2000 miles?? The CV separated way too easy I'm guessing it was never fully seated from the factory. But I still wonder what the heck beat up the shaft so bad??

 

[Silver-Bolt]

My concern would be the splines on the diff that the axle mates with. Can you see them?

 

[Big E Tacocat]

Got the new axle from Ford and installed it last night, went together easily! I’m pretty sure the circlip was halfway installed on the outboard shaft which is what caused all the damage. After seeing the inboard circlip design vs the outboard it’s the only I answer I can come up with. Those clips are hardened steel it’s the only thing that could’ve done all that damage. Didn’t get any warranty help from Ford (didn’t really think i would) but the parts guy really hooked me up

 

[akturbo]

Got the new axle from Ford and installed it last night, went together easily! I’m pretty sure the circlip was halfway installed on the outboard shaft which is what caused all the damage. After seeing the inboard circlip design vs the outboard it’s the only I answer I can come up with. Those clips are hardened steel it’s the only thing that could’ve done all that damage. Didn’t get any warranty help from Ford (didn’t really think i would) but the parts guy really hooked me up

Do you have a pic of what you think failed? Maybe I missed it as I was looking at the PDFs and your pic. I already have odd (scary) sounds coming from the front end and haven't even installed my leveling kit yet.

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