General consensus on replacing the rear links / control arms?

[cgv]

What's the general concensus on replacing the rear links/control arms? Do you need to replace both lowers and uppers to free up travel or do the lower do the trick?

My plan is to at least get lower rear control arms and a track bar to open up some flex on the rear. Trying to figure out if I need to bite the bullet for the uppers as well. It appears that one of the benefits of the uppers is for pinion angle adjustment. I have no plans for adjusting the pinion angle at this time with the suspension setup I am running (2" lift on coilovers).

Sorry if this is a repost... I tried searching and didn't really find anything.

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[Mudlight]

It would be nice if someone made a bushing/Johnny joint that could be pressed into the stock rear control arms/track bar.

 

[CatMonkey]

I've had rod ends on some of my vehicles in the past and they're not for the faint of heart. It sort of depends how much daily driving you do and your tolerence for NVH. Don't throw the stock arms away. You can always go back to stock if they're not for you. I put an Icon track bar on mine and you'd never know it was back there, but this is a much different purpose and geometry than the control arms. Arms that are half poly/ half rod end might be a better choice for a dual purpose rig. Roads have a lot to do with the harshness too. Roads here are crap.

 

[kodiakisland]

I’m sure replacing all is best, but I freed up a lot of movement with just replacing the lowers and track bar. Just haven’t got around to dropping the gas tank for the uppers yet, but I will eventually.

 

[Tricky Dick]

've had rod ends on some of my vehicles in the past and they're not for the faint of heart.

100% this. People throwing them at their Broncos will be in for a rude surprise as they wear out quickly. A johnny joint or one of it's variations would be much preferred.

 

[cgv]

100% this. People throwing them at their Broncos will be in for a rude surprise as they wear out quickly. A johnny joint or one of it's variations would be much preferred.

This is exactly why I am planning to go with Rock Jock control arms.

I’m sure replacing all is best, but I freed up a lot of movement with just replacing the lowers and track bar. Just haven’t got around to dropping the gas tank for the uppers yet, but I will eventually.

This is what I was hoping to hear! I figured with the uppers being further inboard, there is more leverage on them when flexing to get more articulation out of the stock uppers than what you get out of the stock lowers.

Did you cut the passenger side bolt instead of removing the fuel tank for the lower? With the little shield covering the bolt head to keep it from backing into the fuel tank and the fact that the head sits down into a depression, I don't see how I can get something on it to cut it off.

 

[kodiakisland]

Sawzall works fine to cut the bolt.

 

[Bmadda]

I went with Core4x4 and did them all. I have the same concern as others w/hiems...not doin it on a street driven vehicle in the rust belt. Johnny joints, and keep the zerks easily accessible. Grease frequently and they will hold up. Doing lowers I guess is better than doing none, but doing all makes it super flexy. W/the shocks disconnected seems like mine would droop till the driveshaft pulls apart. One thing is for sure, 6g Bronco could use help w/rear articulation, so anything you do is an improvement!

 

[Snacktime]

Waiting for more options, as the current suspension systems are not really designed for aftermarket links. Right now your limitations are the shocks built to work with factory length brake lines. At some point someone will come out with a kit that moves/recesses the lower links into the frame then fixes the rear mount points for the shocks and links.

 

[Lèòn]

I remember replacing my stock suspension with tons of parts on my old mustang, it would have been great for the track but creaked like an old staircase.

Is it anything like that or just overbuilt things?

 

[Dmorty217]

What's the general concensus on replacing the rear links/control arms? Do you need to replace both lowers and uppers to free up travel or do the lower do the trick?

My plan is to at least get lower rear control arms and a track bar to open up some flex on the rear. Trying to figure out if I need to bite the bullet for the uppers as well. It appears that one of the benefits of the uppers is for pinion angle adjustment. I have no plans for adjusting the pinion angle at this time with the suspension setup I am running (2" lift on coilovers).

Sorry if this is a repost... I tried searching and didn't really find anything.

I would suggest Core4x4 for rear links and track bar.

 

[builtMIbronco]

Core 4x4 uppers and lowers, with their track bar really increased overall articulation for me. I'm still on the stock hitachis (lol) but i actually rub a 37x12.50 on the fender flare and liner at full stuff with 3.5" of lift and .75" body spacer now.

They ride smooth and I haven't noticed noise, definitely feels more planted and wants to articulate the rear way easier. I've got about 4k miles on them now. I don't think I've lifted a rear tire since I did them and I would constantly before.

 

[cgv]

Core 4x4 uppers and lowers, with their track bar really increased overall articulation for me. I'm still on the stock hitachis (lol) but i actually rub a 37x12.50 on the fender flare and liner at full stuff with 3.5" of lift and .75" body spacer now.

They ride smooth and I haven't noticed noise, definitely feels more planted and wants to articulate the rear way easier. I've got about 4k miles on them now. I don't think I've lifted a rear tire since I did them and I would constantly before.

What series of core 4x4 arms did you get?

Edit: Also, was there any necessary adjustment of the arms or are they preset to factory lengths?

 

[Bentpushrod]

Core 4x4 uppers and lowers, with their track bar really increased overall articulation for me. I'm still on the stock hitachis (lol) but i actually rub a 37x12.50 on the fender flare and liner at full stuff with 3.5" of lift and .75" body spacer now.

They ride smooth and I haven't noticed noise, definitely feels more planted and wants to articulate the rear way easier. I've got about 4k miles on them now. I don't think I've lifted a rear tire since I did them and I would constantly before.

Looks like you are running both an adjustable track bar, and track bar relocation bracket. Is the bracket from Rock Jock?

 

[cgv]

Sawzall works fine to cut the bolt.

Did you not have this cover over the head of the bolt?

The way it sandwiches the tab on the bolt head, I don't think I can get it clear of the frame mount to cut the head off. I also don't think I can get to the screws holding the cover on.

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