Base Sound System Upgrade/Build

[Altitude]

Jl audio c1 They have a lot of base for 4". You’ll need to turn it down some in the tone settings with them. Turned up loud they sound great.

Thank you for the response.

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[5280Bronco]

@Frankie945 How was the depth of the stock location in the dash for the JL Audios? Crutchfield measurements show the spot isn't deep enough for the speaker (obviously it is) but I wanted to see if you had to shove it in there or if the magnet was at least not touching anything when it was in the stock location? Thanks!

 

[Frankie945]

@Frankie945 How was the depth of the stock location in the dash for the JL Audios? Crutchfield measurements show the spot isn't deep enough for the speaker (obviously it is) but I wanted to see if you had to shove it in there or if the magnet was at least not touching anything when it was in the stock location? Thanks!

I didn’t notice anything when I put the oem gills back on. They don’t rattle or anything either. The magnet of them is about the same size as the factory ones.

 

[5280Bronco]

I didn’t notice anything when I put the oem gills back on. They don’t rattle or anything either. The magnet of them is about the same size as the factory ones.

Ok, so the grilles went back on without having to excessively push them on or any kind of bulge due to the speaker being too deep?

 

[Frankie945]

Ok, so the grilles went back on without having to excessively push them on or any kind of bulge due to the speaker being too deep?

It was fine. A lot of other people on here have also used the C1 and didn’t report any problems.

 

[5280Bronco]

It was fine. A lot of other people on here have also used the C1 and didn’t report any problems.

Oh yeah, for sure. I have heard the rears are a bit deep and make the grilled bulge a bit, bit I'm starting with the dash speakers first, so I wanted to ask about that location specifically. Also, did you put any matting, etc behind them, or just swap them out and that was it?

 

[Frankie945]

Oh yeah, for sure. I have heard the rears are a bit deep and make the grilled bulge a bit, bit I'm starting with the dash speakers first, so I wanted to ask about that location specifically. Also, did you put any matting, etc behind them, or just swap them out and that was it?

just swapped them. They have alot of base some people might not like them because of that. I just adjusted the tone settings till I thought they sounded good I'm fine with them.

 

[BaseSquatch]

For those of you who installed a subwoofer, and connected into both kick panel speakers…
How did you cleanly wire your split from the front passenger kick speaker, back over to the drivers side? Thanks ahead of time!

 

[Frankie945]

Just a heads up. Plugnplaykits.com has the kicker key plug and play wire harnesses only back in stock. They have the kicker key amps also in stock if anyones been waiting.

 

[Jolo86]

@buzpro is definitely right, don't rush into it! I'm 8 hours into my project so far and have only the first amp and front 4 speakers done!

Took my time planing out wire runs, carefully removing trim panels, good luck finding a replacement right now if you break off the clips. Thankfully everything came apart fairly easily with an interior trim removal tool.

Had to make two adapter rings for the kick panel speakers because of where the mounting locations are for the factory ones. Easy enough to trace the old hole pattern onto some HDPE and cut out with a jigsaw. Used some foam rings to isolate the kick panels too as it's open to the fender behind. Not enough room for the full foam backer though.

Really easy to access the dash speakers, can basically see all the way to the floorboards with them taken out so no problem wiring. Added some "boom mat" speaker baffles behind them to direct the sound upwards and made a nice difference!

Knew from the beginning I wanted to use the Kicker Key 200.4 for the fronts as it's super compact and efficient. Really easy to set up and mounted perfectly on the crash bar under the steering column. Still get full range of motion on the column too!

Meant to take more pictures of the install process but you get in the zone and just get stuff done!

Will update again with the rear speaker and sub setup!

Did you fasten down the amp to the bracket or does it stay in place?

 

[philjmatt]

Did you fasten down the amp to the bracket or does it stay in place?

I drilled through the bracket and used small button head bolts and nuts to attach it securely!

 

[SCTWNB]

Big thanks to the contributors of this thread! I just completed my upgrade and am very happy with the results.

I decided to start with the addition of amps and a subwoofer, leaving the factory speakers to see if they would wake up with amplification. After install, I've decided that no speaker upgrade is needed - factory units perform very well with an amp and equalization.

I have included pic and model # of a great fitting loaded sub enclosure - even the carpet color was a near perfect match.

System:
Factory 6 speaker system (2 door Wildtrak) - now connected to a Kicker Key200.4 (installed in dash on factory knee brace/support). This amp did an amazing job with it's auto programming and auto equalizer (done with included microphone). Retained wiring in factory configuration (kick panel speakers and dash speakers on front channels, rear pods on rear channels).

Subwoofer/enclosure: Kicker 10" downfiring, shallow mount 48CVTDF102
Sub Amp: Kicker Key500.1 (installed under driver seat), also purchased the subwoofer remote level control Kicker 46CX (installed in recess below climate controls).

Sounds fantastic and capable of unbearable volume without distortion.

Thanks again for the info - schematics and pics were very helpful.

Looks great! Do you happen to have a picture of the subwoofer remote level mounting?
Thanks!

 

[Bronceaux]

Just finished the install on my base two door this past weekend. Many thanks to the contributors of this post and especially @philjmatt for the idea of the mounting of the kicker key 200.4. This placement allowed for short runs of speaker and power & ground wires.

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/threads/base-sound-system-upgrade-build.18480/post-746171

I watched several install videos from Five Star Car Audio as well for inspiration on the kicker key wiring and tuning. Check those guys out for great instruction

Build.
Kicker Key 200.4 - running this in biamp mode to the front four inch coaxial and 6.5 inch mid bass drivers in the kick panels. There’s a factory grounding point right above the driver kickpanel speaker.

Kicker Key 500.1 - mounted under the drivers seat on an ABS plastic panel between the seat bolts. Easy to run the different wires to this location since there’s a large wire run along the seat. Using seat bolt as grounding point.

Kicker CS 4inch coaxial speaker- I was going to use these for the real pods since the Morel 4 inch speakers were too deep for the dash so I had to use these in a pinch. They sound great and I might just keep them up front.

Memphis Audio 6.5 inch mid bass in the kick panels. Despite what others have said, I think the kickpanel speakers (when powered) are essential for a proper front sound stage. I went with the Memphis since it’s difficult to find just mid bass speakers a la cart. The sensitivity is also off the charts and was recommended by someone in this thread. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_953MJP6/Memphis-Audio-MJP6.html

DD Audio Subwoofer. Given the storage space is a premium in a two door, I needed to keep it small. These 6.5 inch subwoofers are no joke. Amazing how the technology has progressed over the years. https://ddaudio.com/series/le-s-series/?status=2&global=2

Metra harness to pull signal and then connects to the factory speaker wire for the dash 4 inch. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120725602/Metra-72-5602-Speaker-Wiring-Harness.html

Metra 6.5 speaker adapters. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120825605/Metra-82-5605-Speaker-Mounting-Brackets.html

build notes and lessons learned

• Next time, I’d run the 8 conductor speed wire rather than bundling individual speaker wires in braided loom. You have to pull signal from where the kickpanels sit and then run two sets of wires from the kicker key 200.4 to amplify the coaxials and kickpanels back to the same location. Speed wires would simplify
• rear speaker pods. I wouldn’t bother with them. They are so useless to begin with, they really only provide rear fill sound. I’d consider removing the pods entirely for a cleaner look. They’re currently powered by the factory radio.
• the kicker key 200.4 uses dc offset to turn on and I ran a blue turn on wire to the 500.1 from the 200.4. Pretty slick feature of the 200.4.
• Running the power wires through the 2 inch rubber grommet was a serious PITA.
• Minor trimming of the kickpanel speaker grill on the inside was required for it to snap back in place.
• I used trim removal tools for the dash speaker and still broke a retaining tab. It still snapped back into place flush though.
• I’m in for about 1400 and think it was money well spent to give the bronco a proper sound system.
• There are better reviews on the kicker key amplifiers out there, so I won’t go into those other than to say they are packed with amazing and easy to use features.

thanks again to the contributors on this thread.

I have replaced all 4" and 6.5 with JBL speakers. I am still hearing the rear speakers require the head unit flash, to open up full range on the rear. It does appear limited. Did you have the flash performed on the rear speakers, or do they appear to provide full-range after your setup?

 

[Squatchn']

I have replaced all 4" and 6.5 with JBL speakers. I am still hearing the rear speakers require the head unit flash, to open up full range on the rear. It does appear limited. Did you have the flash performed on the rear speakers, or do they appear to provide full-range after your setup?

Which JBL speakers did you go with for the 6.5"? I'm thinking about getting the GTO629's but I wasn't sure if they would fit in the kick panel space provided.

 

[Bronceaux]

Which JBL speakers did you go with for the 6.5"? I'm thinking about getting the GTO629's but I wasn't sure if they would fit in the kick panel space provided.

JBL Club 6520 6.5"

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