Base Sound System Upgrade/Build

[Dubsesd]

Yeah you're good! The amp as the ability to use 2 channel input for 4 channel out so I used the full range signal that goes to the factory kick panel speakers, and then I ran new speaker wire from the amp to all 4 front speakers locations. Used the amps built in crossover to filter out the low frequency for the 4" ones!

Thank you!

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[Mike777]

There should be a post where we can sticky all the best builds from this thread.

 

[jay102269]

Hi there,

Has someone figured out which one is positive and which is negative? I've got some 4" Polk Audio DB+s but can't seem to figure out which one is the correct polarity.

Thanks

 

[Doc Rocket]

Happy to report after 4 late nights working away in the driveway the Bronco now has a great sound system!!

I didn't go crazy with my speaker selection, using kicker CS Series for the 4" and 6.5". There are better speakers out there for sure, but for a sound stage that in my case is open air as often as I can have the top off and the windows down, they provide a plenty accurate and full listening experience!

For the rear speakers I took a page out of the Wrangler/UTV owners playbook and went with a pair of 6.5" marine wake tower speakers. Went back and forth on this one for a while because I'm someone that likes to keep things looking factory, but in the end I'm so happy I went this route! They are more than powerful enough to break through the wind noise and push crisp clear audio up to the front seats!

I 3D printed some mounting adapters so I could still take advantage of the factory brackets and so far it's working great. Working on finding a thread locker that plays nice with PLA for the bolts and then they'll be good for hopefully years to come.

Lastly I was going to mount the two amps where the factory B&O sub and DSP would be, but ended up going with the much easier to access cargo area. It was easy to mount everything and using some spacers for the "load floor" that's held down by the tie down points in the rear I had plants of room to run my wiring.

Watch the PLA parts closely, they tend to warp and shrink a lot in a car (heat). If you want something that should hold up better, there are storefronts online who will print things for you if you supply the files. I would recommend a high glass transition temperature plastic. PEEK, PEKK, and PEI would be good places to start. They are not terribly compatible with home printers, however, they can require high temperature build volumes, around 170C (325F).

 

[HPNQ420]

Hi there,

Has someone figured out which one is positive and which is negative? I've got some 4" Polk Audio DB+s but can't seem to figure out which one is the correct polarity.

Thanks

It is labelled on the left side of the grey box.

 

[buzpro]

It is labelled on the left side of the grey box.

the grey box shows the polarity to the kick panel speakers .... what he has circled in red are the wires to the Dash speakers

 

[jay102269]

It is labelled on the left side of the grey box.

Correct. But the wires coming out of the kick panel speakers are a different color than the wires coming from the ACM.

 

[buzpro]

Correct. But the wires coming out of the kick panel speakers are a different color than the wires coming from the ACM.

if i was gonna guess i would say the magenta and the green wires are (+) leads

 

[philjmatt]

Watch the PLA parts closely, they tend to warp and shrink a lot in a car (heat). If you want something that should hold up better, there are storefronts online who will print things for you if you supply the files. I would recommend a high glass transition temperature plastic. PEEK, PEKK, and PEI would be good places to start. They are not terribly compatible with home printers, however, they can require high temperature build volumes, around 170C (325F).

I had a similar idea!! First round is more a proof of concept, I have a friend that can machine it out of aluminum once I figure out a final design. I will probably end up with a 2nd version that replaces the factory top piece as well for better overall rigidity!

 

[redone17]

I think the 300hz is just fine. Obviously the 600hz would work fine, I just think it's filtering out more than they need.

What if you bumped the bass up in EQ settings to get more from the 6.5” in the kicker panels? Would 600hz then be a better move to get the most out of 4”s in the corners with volume around 20?

 

[Doc Rocket]

I had a similar idea!! First round is more a proof of concept, I have a friend that can machine it out of aluminum once I figure out a final design. I will probably end up with a 2nd version that replaces the factory top piece as well for better overall rigidity!

Aluminum is good, especially if you have a friend who can do the machining for you cheap. Otherwise, sometimes, even getting it commercially printed can be cheaper for 1-2 items, and PEKK, PEEK, and PEI are comparable in strength/rigidity to most aluminum (1000, 2000 and 3000 series alloys especially). I do not work for Stratasys, but they do have a storefront that will let you upload part files and get them sent to you as finished plastic parts in a variety of polymers.

 

[HPNQ420]

if i was gonna guess i would say the magenta and the green wires are (+) leads

I think this is correct and I think the speakers are wired in series.

 

[philjmatt]

Aluminum is good, especially if you have a friend who can do the machining for you cheap. Otherwise, sometimes, even getting it commercially printed can be cheaper for 1-2 items, and PEKK, PEEK, and PEI are comparable in strength/rigidity to most aluminum (1000, 2000 and 3000 series alloys especially). I do not work for Stratasys, but they do have a storefront that will let you upload part files and get them sent to you as finished plastic parts in a variety of polymers.

I'll have to check them out too, id just be in for the cost of the aluminum with my buddy doing it, but he wont know the raw material cost till I have the finished design.

 

[Pressurized]

What if you bumped the bass up in EQ settings to get more from the 6.5” in the kicker panels? Would 600hz then be a better move to get the most out of 4”s in the corners with volume around 20?

Having not actually done any testing yet, I'd guess that the 6.5's aren't able to produce that much more bass anyways... But the 600 would allow more volume from the 4", just not sure that's what is needed to have a decent balance in the system. It feels like it's going to be heavy in mid and high freq output and lacking bass.

 

[Gamecock2010]

Happy to report after 4 late nights working away in the driveway the Bronco now has a great sound system!!

I didn't go crazy with my speaker selection, using kicker CS Series for the 4" and 6.5". There are better speakers out there for sure, but for a sound stage that in my case is open air as often as I can have the top off and the windows down, they provide a plenty accurate and full listening experience!

For the rear speakers I took a page out of the Wrangler/UTV owners playbook and went with a pair of 6.5" marine wake tower speakers. Went back and forth on this one for a while because I'm someone that likes to keep things looking factory, but in the end I'm so happy I went this route! They are more than powerful enough to break through the wind noise and push crisp clear audio up to the front seats!

I 3D printed some mounting adapters so I could still take advantage of the factory brackets and so far it's working great. Working on finding a thread locker that plays nice with PLA for the bolts and then they'll be good for hopefully years to come.

Lastly I was going to mount the two amps where the factory B&O sub and DSP would be, but ended up going with the much easier to access cargo area. It was easy to mount everything and using some spacers for the "load floor" that's held down by the tie down points in the rear I had plants of room to run my wiring.

Do you have some more pictures of the wake speakers installed on the car? zoomed out, from the front/side/back? You jumped all over this project i hope to do with my Bronco if i ever get it !

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