Broken front axle at CV joint on my Bronco Badlands 4-Door 2.7L

[tracythemighty]

It is what it is. I have been a 4x4 enthusiasts for over 30 years and broken many axle as such I have learned not to full lock. The intent of the post was to see if this was an issue others have had. I am glad to hear it isnt.

I am a complete newbie for this type of vehicle. What happens when your axle breaks, and if I am driving, how would I know that the axle broke?
Was there a big noise? Was the Bronco incapable of moving afterwards?
I just want to know what to look out for.

Also, I am not insinuating in any way that this was your fault, but if it happens to me, it will likely be something I did that I shouldn't have done. What am I supposed to avoid doing? I'm sorry to be a pain, thanks in advance for the response.

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[Chrome_Pony]

What do you mean by "not to full lock"?

Don't turn the wheel to the point where the power steering, electric or hydraulic starts making noise, known as full lock. On 4WD IFS vehicles that happens to be one point at which the geometry of the CVs is most angled, meaning they are at those points the most vulnerable to high-torque leverage like 4LO and locked front differentials. Lockers and 4LO are not for sharp turn areas.

This is why the thought that the driver could be responsible is so prevalent. This is unlikely due to the number of preproduction units, test units and delivered units that have survived far worse without this particular failure mode, which suggests the far more rare event of a materials or assembly defect.

I am a complete newbie for this type of vehicle. What happens when your axle breaks, and if I am driving, how would I know that the axle broke?
Was there a big noise? Was the Bronco incapable of moving afterwards?
I just want to know what to look out for.

Also, I am not insinuating in any way that this was your fault, but if it happens to me, it will likely be something I did that I shouldn't have done. What am I supposed to avoid doing? I'm sorry to be a pain, thanks in advance for the response.

CV axles click and pop when bad. Most likely driving forward would have sounded like a grinding noise or metal on metal as the joint within the boot collided with the splined portion still attached to the differential. Eventually metal or massed material within the boot would split it or dislodge it and it would sling the grease everywhere under the undercarriage. Then, if the joint completely disconnected it could bang around the control arms and the knuckle. That's why the OPs call of the tow truck was the right decision. Cleaner repair (even though it's warrantied, the grease removal would add to the downtime for your rig) and less collateral damage from the failed part.

 

[rutherk1]

Hmmm. That stinks although 4 low on that kind of terrain, something is going to give.

Not enough slippage. You go almost full lock in 4 low and give it gas, its going to break.

I know a lot of people that are new to 4 wheel drive, will go 4x4 and try to drive on relatively firm ground, try to turn the wheel, feel some bind and try to overcome the bind with throttle. This will 100% happen.

Not accusing anyone of user error but this is what usually causes this.

I have hammered side by sides off road for decades and broken plenty of axles but driving in 4x4 low on firm ground, with the steering wheel turned will snap an axle shaft faster than any hard off roading.

 

[Jruzicka]

Who adjusted the alignment?

 

[Raptor.Tremor.Bronco]

Are there factory different front axle s?
Have not read or heard of?
SAS has different axles?

It's a ford accessory

 

[goatman]

This must be Goatman from NAXJA. Good to see you over here Richard. Ran into your years back on our way back from the Dusey.
This guy knows his stuff.

Yep, that's me. Thanks for the kind words. I've been around the off road mountain plenty of times. Should I admit that I had a Jeep and was in the local 4x4 club in the late '60's?
Can you believe I'm selling the XJ and getting a Bronco? It's a new day.

I'm happy to share some experience and knowledge around here for folks that haven't done much wheeling before. I'll try not to be a know it all arrogant ass.

 

[goatman]

Is 4wd on these Broncos disengaged via vacuum like the ESOF on the F150? I hope not, but if so, it would be easy to switch the appropriate vacuum solenoid wire to ground using one of the upfitter switches. So when in 4Lo, flip the switch to disconnect the front axle - 2wd low! I've done this on my F150 and it works great.

I have no idea. Has there been any info out regarding auto locking hubs? With IFS it isn't really needed, since the front driveline doesn't move, the diff is in a fixed location. Something to find out, anyone know? I also see upgraded drivelines in the Ford aux parts list. Sounds like Ford is attempting to get out in front of the aftermarket upgrades.

 

[goatman]

Thanks for the breakdown... I got a lot to learn but soaking up knowledge from you guys helps. I'm in a tough place with this because camping and road trips is something I love, but Hawaii is limited for obvious reasons. I may end up back on the mainland in then next few years and then I'd have the chance to get off road more. I think my most logical build would be a BD non sas with aftermarket lift, wheels and tires 33"s. That would save me money up front and give me more than enough capability for Hawaii (Oahu) trails. Then if I break something or get more aggressive I can do aftermarket up grades: front locker, front axle, 35"s. Doest that make sense or would it make more sense to go straight to BL Sas and upgrade from there? BL non-Sas is the prolly the best daily driver with stock capability and minimal upgrades needed for more focused offroading?

I think it would make better sense, both cost and equipment, to go with a baseSAS. You don't need the steel rear bumper probably, can buy the rock sliders for safety, and make your own decision on the skid plates. Comes with a gas tank skid, and you get front skid with the steel bumper, which is an option. Then you get the bigger front end, lower gears, and the lockers, and the better shocks. A BaseSAS with the front bumper is 1k less than a BD. Spend that on skids and rock rails and you're much better off than with a non-SAS BD. Now, I agree that a non-SAS BL could be the perfect driver for someone who will also wheel it, that's what I'm getting now (since my wife can't climb into an SAS), and it has the factory sway bar disco, but it's 5k more.

 

[Mr. Nice]

if you are in 4wd with lockers engaged, and you have all 4 tires in full contact with the ground without any slip, something has to give. it the tires don't slip, in a turn locked up parts will break. that is why the owner's manual on ANY 4wd says for use on slippery surfaces only. do not drive on roads with 4wd engaged unless it is on slippery surfaces.. the tires slip or parts break.

Owner stated he was on loose gravel. Do you have to be on snow or ice to use 4WD?

Look at the pictures. Loose gravel...

 

[indio22]

I think it would make better sense, both cost and equipment, to go with a baseSAS. You don't need the steel rear bumper probably, can buy the rock sliders for safety, and make your own decision on the skid plates. Comes with a gas tank skid, and you get front skid with the steel bumper, which is an option. Then you get the bigger front end, lower gears, and the lockers, and the better shocks. A BaseSAS with the front bumper is 1k less than a BD. Spend that on skids and rock rails and you're much better off than with a non-SAS BD. Now, I agree that a non-SAS BL could be the perfect driver for someone who will also wheel it, that's what I'm getting now (since my wife can't climb into an SAS), and it has the factory sway bar disco, but it's 5k more.

Problem is I'm at $31,500 msrp with base 2-door. Thought about it, but adding SAS per build and price, costs an additional $7385 (and I lose the manual trans). Might be an easier sell once manual Sas is available, but still a chunk of change.

Plus I wheeled for years out west with open diff Jeeps, and some mediocre components. Dana 20 keyed rear axle anyone? But still had a lot of fun. Not ruling out Sas, but a base for $31,500 plus maybe $1200 for wheels and set of 33" tires, seems the sweet spot of the fun/cost equation.

 

[Felix808]

Can you believe I'm selling the XJ and getting a Bronco? It's a new day.

Now I don't feel so bad about giving mine away a few years back (sold way too cheap ).
Can't wait to get some Broncos together out on the trail.
Does this look familiar to you?

 

[goatman]

Now I don't feel so bad about giving mine away a few years back (sold way too cheap ).
Can't wait to get some Broncos together out on the trail.
Does this look familiar to you?

Wow! Nice pic. That's Two Step on Bald Mtn Trail. Drove that many times, also rolled off it once...in the dark.

That old Jeep is still around, though I don't own it anymore. That XJ started a few trends that are popular now. Thanks for posting that pic.

 

[Felix808]

That XJ started a few trends that are popular now. Thanks for posting that pic.

You were the first that I know of to hedge up that mod.

 

[ssolypop]

I think it would make better sense, both cost and equipment, to go with a baseSAS. You don't need the steel rear bumper probably, can buy the rock sliders for safety, and make your own decision on the skid plates. Comes with a gas tank skid, and you get front skid with the steel bumper, which is an option. Then you get the bigger front end, lower gears, and the lockers, and the better shocks. A BaseSAS with the front bumper is 1k less than a BD. Spend that on skids and rock rails and you're much better off than with a non-SAS BD. Now, I agree that a non-SAS BL could be the perfect driver for someone who will also wheel it, that's what I'm getting now (since my wife can't climb into an SAS), and it has the factory sway bar disco, but it's 5k more.

Thanks, your input is much appreciated. I considered Base but I want the washout floor (Hawaii beach sand) and vinyl or leather. Vinyl is cheaper so left me with BD or BL. I can afford the extra $5K to go BD Sas or
I can go with a non-Sas BL. I can financially afford a BL Sas, but I just dont see the need in paying nearly 60K upfront... Trying to trim where it makes sense.

 

[Erock]

Wish the OP could get back in here with some pics of the axle with the boot removed. I’d like to see what actually broke inside there. @Homebowlking

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