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Front Locker Upgrade?

Raptor911

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Please correct me if I am wrong .... the difference between an aluminum and iron diff is only the diff cover itself so if you have an aluminum cover can't you just swap it out with a more durable cover?

I run this rear diff cover on my Raptor

Ford Bronco Front Locker Upgrade? 1597954244891


Did anybody read through the detailed Jalopnik article? It said non locker front differentials are aluminum, not cast iron like the locker version.

Unless its some hardcore lightweight racing 9", I dont really want an aluminum diff. I seem to remember some gms with crappy alloy diff troubles.

So you gotta get the lockers if you ever want a locker. That throws a wrench in some folks "I dont need a squatch, i will do it myself plans".
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stickshifter

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is a front locker really a must for general off roading. or something you only really need for rock crawling and extreme off roading?
Its hard to know what you mean by "general off roading". For the majority of fire roads, Forest Service roads, moderate trails, you don't need lockers front or rear. But lockers are awesome. Your ability to move when otherwise stuck, by sending power to the tire with traction, is remarkable. I think anyone who wants to play around off-road (i.e. more than just driving rough dirt roads) should have a rear locker at minimum. Front lockers do the exact same thing - allow you to ease onto the throttle and send power to the tire with traction - but they have to be used with a little more care. (1) a front locker will limit your ability to make turns (so you gotta turn it off before a sharp turn), and (2) a front locker puts strain on front axles. Aftermarket front lockers can end up doing damage to IFS in particular, because the manufacturer didn't design the front end to take that kind of strain. I know two guys with Tacomas who have broken front axles using aftermarket front lockers. So my advice (for what its worth) would be to get the lockers front and rear from the factory. As an additional reason to get the lockers from Ford - why open up the diffs on a new vehicle and add stuff that will likely void your driveline warranty? If you think you want 35s and lockers, get them from the factory: no need to mess with aftermarket lockers, air lines (since most people go ARB in the aftermarket), the need to re-gear. One of the easiest ways to ruin the driveability of a brand new 4x4 is to slap on big tires without re-gearing (and noone wants to spend the time and $ to re-gear). Get it all from the factory, and you've got the right gears, and a factory warranty. I know everyone talks about aftermarket mods, and its cool if you want to personalize your rig. But in my experience, the aftermarket gets expensive, takes time away from being out on the trail, comes with some risk, and can create problems at the dealer if you have a problem and they claim its a result of what you've done. Wow, that was really rambly...
 

kodiakisland

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Please correct me if I am wrong .... the difference between an aluminum and iron diff is only the diff cover itself so if you have an aluminum cover can't you just swap it out with a more durable cover?

I run this rear diff cover on my Raptor

Ford Bronco Front Locker Upgrade? 1597954244891

No, it's not just the cover. Even if the housing was steel though, it would still have the small ring gear which is the weak point. As the ring gear gets bigger, it also gets stronger. Breaking an axle or CV on the trail sucks, but can be fixed. Grenading a ring gear on the trail is catastrophic. The M190 is a weaker option all the way around. Might still be strong enough for 99% of the uses, but I like to plan for that other 1%.
 

edgeflyer

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When you talk about swapping a locker in after the fact, keep in mind that you will need the wiring and have the modules and relays to control it. I don't think the aftermarket will find it financially worthwhile to make a locker for the few people who didn't buy one in the first place. They'r too cheap and easy to get on these. I think you would be shooting yourself in the foot, then kicking yourself with the same hurt foot. I agree though. I have wheeled in some crazy stuff with no lockers at all for a long time.
 

Bmadda

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Please correct me if I am wrong .... the difference between an aluminum and iron diff is only the diff cover itself so if you have an aluminum cover can't you just swap it out with a more durable cover?

I run this rear diff cover on my Raptor

Ford Bronco Front Locker Upgrade? 1597954244891
Front diff on Bronco/ranger doesn't have a cover...its a dropout
 

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BAUS67

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Bmadda

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Thats what the dropout looks like. Makes me wana puke every time I look at it...but that's what we are getting. I dunno about U but I dont ever wana have to F##k w/that thing!

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Heelabaloo

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I had a similar question about the need for Sasquatch or any lockers, front or rear. In the past I owned a ‘93 Toyota 4wd pickup but never really understood how it all worked. So now‘s the time to learn, better late than never. After searching around the interwebs I found several videos, including the Ronny Dahl one below, that do a decent job of explaining pros and cons of lockers. For me, it’s no Sasquatch but I do want a rear locker. I’m not gonna rock crawl and the rear locker alone gets me close enough to true 4wd and should get me out almost everything I’ll encounter.

 

Merc4x4

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Roger that Clark, I'm just having a really hard time understanding WHY they would only offer that granny gear and crawl ratio, promote that, and not offer it with a front locker option. How many guys here, want the base models, with Sasquatch options, but in a manual, locked? A lot!

I mean, that's the real rub in this whole thing. Get the Sasquatch, but you can't get the crawler transfer case. Get the crawler transfer case, but you can't get a front locker....
From the info we have, you can. The Badlands with the manual transmission comes with all the pieces of the Sasquatch package except 35" tires and trail turn assist. The Sasquatch package will limit suspension travel by 1/2" to keep the 35" tires from rubbing.
If I wanted a manual transmission, I'd get the Badlands with beadlocks and put a set of 35's on it. Eventually aftermarket would offer a lift to avoid the occasional rubbing over hard obstacles.
 

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Mattwings

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Interesting conversation. I don’t ever plan to run something bigger the 33”(or metric equivalents). For those that want to run bigger tires and or add lift the larger gears and sturdier housing becomes more important. I have the rear locker in my F150 now and it definitely can mean the difference between stuck and not. The only time I have been stuck was deep snow and a front locker would not have made much difference, as I was high centered. For those running rocks, deep mud, lots of off camber stuff, lockers and sway bar disconnects are undoubtedly a huge plus! For me, running sand, snow, occasionally planning some moderate trails, probably not as much. I will be getting the rear locker for sure btw ??
 
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is a front locker really a must for general off roading. or something you only really need for rock crawling and extreme off roading?
Lockers in general, both front and rear, are only needed for serious off road situations. I have a Tacoma that doesn’t have lockers at all and I take it through trails that are rated as “difficult” frequently. The Rubicon trail is also rated as “difficult” for reference. Lockers are VERY helpful in certain situations and necessary in some, but a good driver (with good spotters) will do just fine in most situations without lockers at all. I’m still getting a Bronco with front and rear lockers because I’m a glutton for overkill :)
 
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da_jokker

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So it sounds like you can't use a front locker if you are turning while off road? That doesn't make sense to me. The two front wheels need to spin at different rates in a turn (inside vs outside wheel) but so does the rear? Why is it ok for the rear but not the front?

In addition, I take it many folks think a rear locker + a locked transfer case + open front diff can be driven on say roads, say in rainy or snowy weather?
 

Heelabaloo

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So it sounds like you can't use a front locker if you are turning while off road? That doesn't make sense to me. The two front wheels need to spin at different rates in a turn (inside vs outside wheel) but so does the rear? Why is it ok for the rear but not the front?

In addition, I take it many folks think a rear locker + a locked transfer case + open front diff can be driven on say roads, say in rainy or snowy weather?
As I understand it the rear locker will have an effect, it just won’t be as severe. See the video I posted above. Everything I have read or seen says that you should not lock the differentials under normal driving conditions such as rain or even light snow. I think the various mode settings would be enough to manage the basic traction requirements but welcome others that have more experience here to verify that.
 

Bmadda

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So it sounds like you can't use a front locker if you are turning while off road? That doesn't make sense to me. The two front wheels need to spin at different rates in a turn (inside vs outside wheel) but so does the rear? Why is it ok for the rear but not the front?

In addition, I take it many folks think a rear locker + a locked transfer case + open front diff can be driven on say roads, say in rainy or snowy weather?
Hop in any vehicle that has a selectable frt locker just sitting still in a parking lot and dry steer it not moving. Then lock the frt diff and do the same. You will then know. Frt locker needs to be selectable. You will only use it in extreme situations once you have picked your "line" through the obstacle. It does make a huge difference in certain situations, and helps the IFS. Watch the video from rubicon and moab. Those guys are 3 wheeling all over the place. W/out a frt locker the frt wheel thats still on the ground does nothing.
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