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BroncoBass

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I'm in Salem, and have the tools needed.
Oh woah, I didn’t realize you were that close! I could drive your way one weekend to do the programming before installing the rack if your open to that? I’d love to make a video of the process to help others as well…. Or we could wrench it in together as well and film that too?
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BigMeatsBronco

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Oh woah, I didn’t realize you were that close! I could drive your way one weekend to do the programming before installing the rack if your open to that? I’d love to make a video of the process to help others as well…. Or we could wrench it in together as well and film that too?
Sounds good, weekends are wide open for me.
 

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msch382

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Re-posting this question... I have a 2022 Bronco WT with HOSS 3.0. I'm looking to order a set of spare inner tie rods. Does anyone have a link to a website where I can buy them or the part number for just the HOSS 3.0 inner tie rods?
 

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Re-posting this question... I have a 2022 Bronco WT with HOSS 3.0. I'm looking to order a set of spare inner tie rods. Does anyone have a link to a website where I can buy them or the part number for just the HOSS 3.0 inner tie rods?
These are my notes on part numbers gathered from B6G. (Please verify from 3rd party to ensure accuracy)

Hoss 3.0 part numbers
NB3Z-3A130-B is the right outer
NB3Z-3A130-C is the left outer

The part number for the inners (NB3Z-3280-D) comes with the boot and both clamps per side.

You can also get the inners without the boot and clamps with part number NB3Z-3280-C

Hoss 3.0 Rack with inner & outer tie rods part number NB3Z-3504-M
 

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@Ramble_Offroad thank you!

Great video on tie rods from two of the best and most experienced Bronco drivers... See 12:10 of the video, "increasing the strength of the tie rod will move the failure point to the steering rack... we look at the tie rods as a fuse because they're easy to change."

 
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da_jokker

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@Ramble_Offroad thank you!

Great video on tie rods from two of the best and most experienced Bronco drivers... See 12:10 of the video, "increasing the strength of the tie rod will move the failure point to the steering rack... we look at the tie rods as a fuse because they're easy to change."


Here's my issue with this. A fuse is meant to blow without causing ANY further damage.

I find it hard to believe, that these tie rods are breaking, and there is no damage occurring to the steering rack. Meaning, you can keep breaking tie rods, but at some point you're steering rack is still going to give out from all the hits it took.
 

Tex

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Here's my issue with this. A fuse is meant to blow without causing ANY further damage.

I find it hard to believe, that these tie rods are breaking, and there is no damage occurring to the steering rack. Meaning, you can keep breaking tie rods, but at some point you're steering rack is still going to give out from all the hits it took.
The weak link idea can work fairly well in practice, so long as the weakest link is stronger than what you'd expect to see on the trail and you're able to stop and fix it right then and there. Otherwise you'll get into a situation where your ability to offroad is dependent on how many spares you can bring with you. Sorry man, that trail is too long, I only get 3 miles per tie rod and I only brought two tie rods with me...I'm going to need at least one to get home as it is. The other side to that equation is that you don't immediately realize it broke and you get yourself in a situation where the broken part is damaging stuff that's not part of the replaceable fuse equation, such as a u-joint failing on a front axle and then taking the yoke out after it repeatedly beats it to hell. Then you're out a u-joint plus an axleshaft that you didn't think you'd need a spare for. Driveshafts are the same way too, if you break a u-joint and the engine slings it all over the place bashing it on rocks or tearing up your undercarriage, that weak link just caused you a lot more problems.
 

LostInArizona

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Just coming back to this thread after a while... stoked that you figured this out. Haven't had issues with my steering rack yet but I am all about planning ahead. This is def going on my "bullet proof all the things" list before I start lifting lol!
 

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The other side is you can still destroy the rack before you break a tie rod. I was running JKS sleeves which are $50 band aid when my rack died. On the scale of added strength I figure the JKS sleeves added 10-20% more to the bending moment. I would not have been surprised if the rack still died with a stock tie rod.

The take up tensioner on the steering rack doesn't have enough play. If the driver side bushing deflects to much the tensioner cap pops out the casting. Rack is trash at this point, this is what the BB bushing helps with...
 

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The weak link idea can work fairly well in practice, so long as the weakest link is stronger than what you'd expect to see on the trail ...
Yeah...sounds like the little plastic bushings inside the housings are breaking which then allows the ram to rub metal on metal not to mention jump off it's track.

So how many tie rod "fuses" will it take to break the plastic ring in the center of the lollipop.....1.....2.....3.... (Old time commercial reference for you youngins :ROFLMAO: )
 

zuke

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Any time you blow a real electrical fuse... You check what it was there to protect on your first oppurtunity as well...

If you're blowing tie rods, you are at least stressing the rack, and should be monitoring it, not just replacing the tie rods every three miles :)
 

mpeugeot

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I always preferred circuit breakers to fuses... but what do I know?
 
 


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