HOSS 3.0 vs HOSS 1.0 vs BroncBuster - driver side steering bushing comparison & discussion

[Snacktime]

That's kinda intriguing.. I think part of the key is gonna be getting a snap ring to go into the "retainer" groove on that bearing that will also go into the groove in the housng.

Have to keep whatever Bearing/Bushing is used from walking right out of the housing!

On the BB plastic bushings the "retainer ring" is built into the plastic in the non load of the bushing.

On the HOSS 1.0 It's one and the same, the load bearing and retainer are all the same area.

On the Hoss 3.0 some of the load bearing is moved out into the tube, and away from the retainer portion of the bushing, but if the orientation is down on it, like in @Snacktime's drawing, It's the wrong direction to help with the tie rod angles of a lifted Bronco (or a drooped out stock Bronco). So really not much better than 1.0 in that situation.

Was the 3.0 free spinning in the tube, Nate?

The whole outside lip of the BB bushing is for the snap ring, not even sure why he put o-ring on it. I would say during a critical failer the lip would help provide strength but at that point you have damaged the alignment and the rack will eat itself.

Yes the bushing is free floating and the gap could migrate to the weakest point on a Hoss 3.0 rack.

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[BigMeatsBronco]

Here's some pictures of my original 1.0 rack bushings and the Damage that you can see was occurring with the 37-in tires and a 2 inch lift putting additional stress on the super ultra weak bushings. OEM ones are ticking time bomb... Just Junk!

You can clearly see the deformation and wear starting to occur at 20,000 miles

 

[zuke]

This is the most common way racks fail. Of the three racks I seen fail, all the same.

Good to know, I've only seen one actual failed rack, and it was a cracked/broken passenger end,

 

[orion]

Old Timers would have fixed this shit with a sealed steel washer removable steel sleeve and turn the rack on it's end and pour liquid lead in there and create a Babbitt bearing... then remove the steel sleeve, press in a bronze one in its place and be done

Do it and gives us a DIY How To video!

 

[Mudlight]

Here's some pictures of my original 1.0 rack bushings and the Damage that you can see was occurring with the 37-in tires and a 2 inch lift putting additional stress on the super ultra weak bushings. OEM ones are ticking time bomb... Just Junk!

You can clearly see the deformation and wear starting to occur at 20,000 miles

So, is the BB bushing the correct fix for this currently? I have only 1,000 miles and have not wheeled my Bronco yet, still modifying it. Thanks.

 

[Snacktime]

So, is the BB bushing the correct fix for this currently? I have only 1,000 miles and have not wheeled my Bronco yet, still modifying it. Thanks.

So at this time BB drivers side bushing is the most important modification you can do to the HOSS 1.0 steering. If you break your rack then move up to a HOSS 3.0 rack. You don't need a BB bushing in a HOSS 3.0 until you have substantial wear (most likely after killing a few tie rods or running BB style tie rod braces for 100k miles). Understand that with that level of use, the belt/plastic pulley the belt rides on in the electrical assist are going to be junk and your most likely money ahead just buying another HOSS 3.0 rack.

If you are running 40s you should be looking at a modified bushing in a HOSS 3.0 rack. I don't think the BB bushing is the correct way, a better solution is needed to take advantage of the beefier housing.

 

[BigMeatsBronco]

So at this time BB drivers side bushing is the most important modification you can do to the HOSS 1.0 steering. If you break your rack then move up to a HOSS 3.0 rack. You don't need a BB bushing in a HOSS 3.0 until you have substantial wear (most likely after killing a few tie rods or running BB style tie rod braces for 100k miles). Understand that with that level of use, the belt/plastic pulley the belt rides on in the electrical assist are going to be junk and your most likely money ahead just buying another HOSS 3.0 rack.

If you are running 40s you should be looking at a modified bushing in a HOSS 3.0 rack. I don't think the BB bushing is the correct way, a better solution is needed to take advantage of the beefier housing.

I agree 100% with this statement

 

[Mudlight]

So at this time BB drivers side bushing is the most important modification you can do to the HOSS 1.0 steering. If you break your rack then move up to a HOSS 3.0 rack. You don't need a BB bushing in a HOSS 3.0 until you have substantial wear (most likely after killing a few tie rods or running BB style tie rod braces for 100k miles). Understand that with that level of use, the belt/plastic pulley the belt rides on in the electrical assist are going to be junk and your most likely money ahead just buying another HOSS 3.0 rack.

If you are running 40s you should be looking at a modified bushing in a HOSS 3.0 rack. I don't think the BB bushing is the correct way, a better solution is needed to take advantage of the beefier housing.

Thank you, just weighing my options. I am running 38.5 Boggers (for the trail only) and I am using 35 Nitto's for the street. I haven't even taking my Bronco off-road yet. I am still in modification phase. I plan on upgading my steering as more options come available. I do plan on wheeling my Bronco, but not beating on it.

 

[Snacktime]

I agree 100% with this statement

I think the correct fix is using a router with a jig similar to milling a trigger area on an ar lower. then hammering in a brass bushing. Tolerance doesn't need to be perfect like a 1/16" of an inch which is garage red-neckable.

 

[Snacktime]

@BigMeatsBronco Jig doesn't even need to be complicated, might add a second hole to step it out if you need to make a second pass.

 

[cgv]

This is good stuff @Snacktime. Exactly what I was hoping to learn in the BB bushing thread I posted the other day. This definitely settles the necessity to install the bushing for my use case on a 1.0 rack. Half a dozen off road trips a year doesn't warrant the 3.0 rack for me yet.

 

[RainbowStix]

What about a HOSS 3.0 vs 1.0 with the whole BB package (bushing, braces, and stage III housing)?

 

[Snacktime]

This is good stuff @Snacktime. Exactly what I was hoping to learn in the BB bushing thread I posted the other day. This definitely settles the necessity to install the bushing for my use case on a 1.0 rack. Half a dozen off road trips a year doesn't warrant the 3.0 rack for me yet.

I Agree but, this is only a small part of the HOSS 3.0 differences. Passenger side is also beefed up and I am thinking the assist system is upgraded(bigger deal). The HOSS 1.0 assist pulley is plastic and if 3.0 is better your looking as a much longer lasting part. I see this becoming an issue as time passes as sand and grit stick to the grease and slowly eat this thing.

 

[zuke]

What about a HOSS 3.0 vs 1.0 with the whole BB package (bushing, braces, and stage III housing)?

Might as well just step up to the 3.0 Rack at that point, It'll cost less than the whole BB Package, assuming Ford ever gets the 3.0 rack back on the parts shelves, and gives you the benefit of a more powerful assist motor as well.

 

[Dmorty217]

Might as well just step up to the 3.0 Rack at that point, It'll cost less than the whole BB Package, assuming Ford ever gets the 3.0 rack back on the parts shelves, and gives you the benefit of a more powerful assist motor as well.

Have the defective ones been dealt with? I agree the Hoss 3.0 rack is the better way to go but if you don’t have the programming tools/knowledge it doesn’t really matter if it is $200 cheaper since you have a rack you can’t do anything with. How hard is the actual Hoss 3.0 rack install? A shop near me told me 7-9 hrs for install since they have never done one before and even at $90 a hr that adds a substantial amount to this modification

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