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VelocityBrew

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Who wouldn't sell take-offs to offset that cost difference though?
@CDawg297! - figuring that I want the electronics working fine on the rear end with the car computer? given the various driving modes and having a drivetrain under warranty. Also thinking I won't mode the suspension until after the first set of tires, then as Velocity says, sell the wheelz.
@CDawg297!
The computer drive modes (GOAT,etc) are all electronically controlling the drivetrain, I am assuming somewhere there is an electronic connection and part in the rear axel assembly that is being controlled? I don't think this is as simple as just switch the rear end later on or open it up and change the gearing.. If you want a 4.7 final drive, that's going to cost something , how much before you bump up against the Squatch on a BL $2500 upgrade... one will go through most of that pretty quickly form what most comments on this forum seem to say that the squatch is a bargain just for getting the drivetrain right.

Educate me on where I am wrong. I don't mean that in a snarky way, I really do NOT know... !
What does gearing ratios and electronics have to do with selling the wheels and suspension off the Sasquatch? 🤔
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mljohnson1973

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I wish I had half the knowledge on this most of you do , so please forgive the stupid new guy questions. lol. So if you getting the Sasquatch package ...the key to putting 37s on is getting bigger springs? If tire width and wheel offset remained the same , all you were doing was going from 35 to 37 everything else would function without issues?

Thank you guys ahead of time . Its alot of help for new people getting into this.
 

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Ryuk

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From the current amount of information we have, that does seem to be the case.
It would also help if the wheel wells could be opened up some more to prevent rubbing on up travel
 

CDawg297!

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@CDawg297!
The computer drive modes (GOAT,etc) are all electronically controlling the drivetrain, I am assuming somewhere there is an electronic connection and part in the rear axel assembly that is being controlled? I don't think this is as simple as just switch the rear end later on or open it up and change the gearing.. If you want a 4.7 final drive, that's going to cost something , how much before you bump up against the Squatch on a BL $2500 upgrade... one will go through most of that pretty quickly form what most comments on this forum seem to say that the squatch is a bargain just for getting the drivetrain right.

Educate me on where I am wrong. I don't mean that in a snarky way, I really do NOT know... !
No I get where you are coming from! I mean I really considered the squatch but just couldnt get past the tires of wheels when I was going to replace them. I already got my Nitto Trail grapplers in the garage with the fuel wheels. Thats what i wanted in the first place. I mean they are offering it as an upgrade from ford to get the 4.7 gears which is good. It may be more money but i dont really care.
 

MoabRox

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So what’s the opinion here on whether or not 33x12.50R17s (33” OD, 12.3” cross section) on 17x8.5 (+35 offset) wheels will fit on a BD without lift or trimming?
 

Wizard1183

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Good stuff. This is why having those removable fenders and quarter panels are going to be clutch. I’m sure there will be after market options for upsizing the tires.
just cut em (fender wells)so you can put those 44” super swampers on them.
 

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RedDawg

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Upgrading the Base tires (255/70/16) to these (255/85/16) shouldn’t be a problem, right?
Ford Bronco How to Fit 35” or 37” Tires on 2021 Bronco? 4WP Explains 1621012235776
 

Ryuk

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No I get where you are coming from! I mean I really considered the squatch but just couldnt get past the tires of wheels when I was going to replace them. I already got my Nitto Trail grapplers in the garage with the fuel wheels. Thats what i wanted in the first place. I mean they are offering it as an upgrade from ford to get the 4.7 gears which is good. It may be more money but i dont really care.
I think there will be a good market for take-off SAS wheels.
I will be putting some Maxxis Comp Tires on stock SAS wheels and locking em down with the SAS Beadlocks. So I have to decide what rims I want to transfer the daily driver tires to. Most likely I will see if I can get a deal on a used set of SAS wheels.
 

Busyboy19

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From the collaboration of a couple of us here we know that non-squatch BD, OBX, and BL all have the same height suspension and therefore 33s will fit the lower trims the same way they fit BL. I believe it was also determined through part numbers that base shares the same suspension as other lower trims.

So TLDR: 33s fit every Bronco.
What is the thought of the width of 33's fitting on the factory 18's. Will the rims be OK with the wider 33? I think they max at 7.5" and most 33's I have seen need minimum of 8".
 

VelocityBrew

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What is the thought of the width of 33's fitting on the factory 18's. Will the rims be OK with the wider 33? I think they max at 7.5" and most 33's I have seen need minimum of 8".
Not all 33's are 285's
 

kodiakisland

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I don’t understand your question. The 4WP coil overs come in a set of four all are 2 1/2 inch diameter and all are adjustable height.

Ok, so let me start over. I was just trying to verify the 4wp will have adjustable coilovers for the rear instead of fixed or even worse spacers. I've yet to see any specifics on anything, and the title of the thread is what is needed, and the rear needs attention too. It's not all CV angles and backspacing.

How about everything else for the rear. What's needed, as the thread title says? How high can we lift before the track bar is an issue? What will be needed? New brackets or longer bar? Rear control arms. Any issues there? Pinion angles? Especially the shorter 2 door.

All I'm asking is to address the rear for what the title of the thread is about. What is needed in the rear to lift 2-3 inches for 37+.

And while we are at it, when 4wp says 1-3 inch lift, are they talking about 1-3 inches over the base, the Badlands, or the Squatch suspension?
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