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j_anderson

j_anderson

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Why don’t people like the factory charger? It seems to work for me.
I didnt have the factory version but I’ve read it gets really hot and charges very slowly.
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Wow! I duct taped a usb charger to the bottom of the pad, put it back in place, and plugged the USB cable into the existing charger… you can’t even see it
First person to use duct tape on a new Bronco! Didn't think we would see that for at least a year :ROFLMAO:
 

21FE4DR

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Top notch install instructional! 🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽🙏🏽
 

2Jeeps&PatriotX1

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Today, I tackled adding a wireless charger. I am an iPhone guy and I wanted to make sure I am getting the highest wattage wireless charge since wireless charging is super inefficient anyway and wireless CarPlay is a battery leech.

For iPhone to have the highest wattage wireless charge possible, you need a power source which will supply enough power and a MagSafe puck from Apple or a certified MagSafe puck from another manufacturer. There are a ton of magnetic wireless chargers available on Amazon, eBay, etc that say "MagSafe compatible" but that is not the same as certified and those do not allow full power wireless charging. I chose the one from Apple since the 3D printed holder is designed for the Apple dimensions.

This CNET article dives into the power requirements for speed charging via MagSafe.

On to the install. I chose to buy a power source from a company called CoolGear (linked in list below).
View attachment 233953


I installed my charger where the factory one from the Lux package would be located. It is found below the HVAC controls in the floor console. There is a block-off plate located below the rubber mat.

IMG_6763.JPG



To get to that block off plate, you have to remove the top plate of the console.

  • Release the retainers and remove the trim panel.
imagen2.dll.jpeg


  • Release the retainers and lower the steering column opening trim panel.
Use the General Equipment: Interior Trim Remover

imagen2.dll_2.jpeg


  • Open the glove compartment.

imagen2.dll_3.jpeg


NOTE: Vehicles not equipped with a handle are equipped with a trim plate. The bolts and trim plate must be removed.
  • Remove the bolts and the handle or trim plate.

imagen2.dll_4.jpeg


  • Remove the screws
  • Release the retainers
  • Remove the lower instrument panel trim panel.
  • Disconnect the electrical connectors

imagen2.dll_5.jpeg


Insert a trim tool between the selector lever boot and the trim ring to release the retainer tabs from the trim ring.
Use the General Equipment: Interior Trim Remover

  • Lift the selector lever boot upwards.

imagen2.dll_6.jpeg


Release the retainers, feed the shift boot through the panel opening, and remove the floor console upper trim panel.

Note, the shift lever must be moved to the drive position to remove the panel.
  • Disconnect the electrical connectors.
    • Use the General Equipment: Interior Trim Remover

imagen2.dll_7.jpeg



Once the console top plate is removed you can remove the block-off plate.
  • Remove the 4, star shaped torx screws
IMG_6971.JPG


With the plate removed, use a pencil and a straight edge. Find the center of the plate by drawing lines from each corner

IMG_6972.JPG


X marks the spot!
  • Drill a pilot hole.
  • Using a 2.5" hole saw, cut the opening for the 3D printed MagSafe holder (link to 3D printer file below).
  • Use a sharp blade to clean up and enlarge hole slightly to fit the holder.
  • Insert the MagSafe holder into the block-off plate.

It's a tight fit so, I didnt glue it in.
IMG_6973.JPG


  • Install MagSafe Puck.

I skinned mine so it wouldn't be silver/gray. (link to skin below)

IMG_6974.JPG



With the upper console bit all done, time for the power source install.

Before installing the accessory harness, extend the wires to the correct length and attach the included power source connector. The harness comes with crimp style connectors but I removed those and soldered the extra length wire and shrink wrapped the joints. I used cloth harness tape to dress the wires.

To gain access to the consoles 12v power port connector
  • Remove the back side of the console by pulling the panel toward the rear of the vehicle. The panel is held on with clips. It pops right off.

Screen Shot 2021-12-31 at 11.07.30 AM.png


With the back of the console removed
  • Unplug the gray 12v power port plug.
  • Insert the accessory power T-harness (4dtech harness linked below).
  • Route and feed the extended wire through the console along the floor and up to where the power source module will be installed.

Screen Shot 2021-12-30 at 10.45.41 PM.png



I installed the power source module by removing one of the grab handle structure bolts circled below.

  • Remove the bolt.
  • Slide it through one side of the power source case flange
  • Reinstall the bolt.

Screen Shot 2021-12-30 at 10.22.34 PM.png


  • Plug the wires from the power accessory harness into the power module.
  • Plug the MagSafe puck into the power module's USB-C port.
  • Reinstall everything else by reversing the tear down instructions above.

Place mat over the top and DONE!


IMG_6975.JPG



I am going to run it like this for a few days but I think ultimately, I may need to cut the rubber mat and shim the MagSafe puck to come up through the mat and sit flush. This would be the strongest magnetic connection with the phone for the most efficient charge. Also, as a bonus, I have a spare USB port on the power source that I plan to use to power the port I want to add to the upper dash defrost panel.





Item list:
Apple MagSafe puck
3D printable puck holder file on Thingiverse
Coolgear Power Source
4dtech Power Accessory Harness
O.E. Wireless Charger Rubber Mat (optional) Part number: M2DZ78047A74CA
EasySkins Matte Black MagSafe puck skins
Great job.
 

BRBlue

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Awesome write up! One of the first mods I plan on doing. I can confirm the factory wireless charger is worthless. Causes my iPhone to overheat and shutdown and doesn’t even charge the phone. Just keeps it at the current charge at best.
 

Blueoval

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Nice job! My waterproof rokk charger is setup similarly and charges okay. Defiantly not as fast as the mag safe but it doesn’t overheat like the factory one does. I used a fuse tap into an empty circuit and all connections are soldered and heat shrinked. I have the rubber mat in place on top of the charger and it sits flush

AD5DCC0B-E856-4D6B-852D-FA5C2F924B2F.jpeg
 
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Nice job! My waterproof rokk charger is setup similarly and charges okay. Defiantly not as fast as the mag safe but it doesn’t overheat like the factory one does. I used a fuse tap into an empty circuit and all connections are soldered and heat shrinked. I have the rubber mat in place on top of the charger and it sits flush

Ford Bronco HOW TO: MagSafe Wireless Charger Install in Factory Location - DIY AD5DCC0B-E856-4D6B-852D-FA5C2F924B2F
Nice!
 

redone17

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Very nice!

Can you get the 7MT console diagrams?
I have been wanting to add one to the slot just behind the shifter. Since the one in front doesn’t fit the phone. It seems like it would work well.

Edit: is that where it is on LUX Badlands with 7MT?
 
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I have been wanting to add one to the slot just behind the shifter. Since the one in front doesn’t fit the phone. It seems like it would work well.

Edit: is that where it is on LUX Badlands with 7MT?
I believe so, there is a photo on the first page that another member posted.
 

redone17

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I believe so, there is a photo on the first page that another member posted.
I saw that after I posted - but, wasn’t sure if that was custom or pre-production rendering.
 
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So you went from not having a charger and adding one. I'd be interested to see the process from someone that already has a charger there and wants to swap in the MagSafe charger.
Curious about that too. I wonder if the block off plate is still there and the wireless charger sits below it or if the wireless charger itself is the block off plate.
 

BkCntryCrwlr

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Jason - great write up and excellent documentation. Thanks for sharing, I'm sure I'll be doing this to improve the one on my WildTrak, when it finally arrives...

I appreciate your effort! Happy New Year!
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