Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first!

[MadTitanRC]

Would this work I’m my 23MY base model with the 7 speaker system? Thanks.

Did you ever get an answer to this? I just had everything installed, and it sounds like shit.

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[omg_bbq]

Hey gang, been following this thread since it started. I'm getting ready to finally jump in too. I've talked to Crutchfield about my setup currently and what I need to change. I'd like to run it by you all also since they're knowledgeable but this thread is very very in the weeds and might know specifics Crutchfield doesn't.

-Current setup is a non B&O stock 6 speaker system with all 4 of the 4 inch speakers replaced with infinity reference with 300mhz bass blockers at all 4 speakers. The kick panel speakers are still the OEM ones and have not been touched.

-What I want to do is install a 200.4 Key and not upgrade anything further.

-What Crutchfield said was to remove the 4 bass blockers and install the 200.4.

Does this ring true for all of you? Essentially the system is very harsh on the ears at anything over 12 with the Tb and Mid set one click away from 0 on the Ford EQ, Bass is cranked up a bit. Hoping that the 200.4 will bring the high frequencies down and even out the sound so that when I turn it up for highway use it isn't just all harsh high frequencies.

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

Hey gang, been following this thread since it started. I'm getting ready to finally jump in too. I've talked to Crutchfield about my setup currently and what I need to change. I'd like to run it by you all also since they're knowledgeable but this thread is very very in the weeds and might know specifics Crutchfield doesn't.

-Current setup is a non B&O stock 6 speaker system with all 4 of the 4 inch speakers replaced with infinity reference with 300mhz bass blockers at all 4 speakers. The kick panel speakers are still the OEM ones and have not been touched.

-What I want to do is install a 200.4 Key and not upgrade anything further.

-What Crutchfield said was to remove the 4 bass blockers and install the 200.4.

Does this ring true for all of you? Essentially the system is very harsh on the ears at anything over 12 with the Tb and Mid set one click away from 0 on the Ford EQ, Bass is cranked up a bit. Hoping that the 200.4 will bring the high frequencies down and even out the sound so that when I turn it up for highway use it isn't just all harsh high frequencies.

Install the amp and leave the BB's in. Listen. If you feel like it could be better, try removing the BB's. Listen. Decide which you like better. Swapping the BB's in and out should be relatively trivial unless they've been installed in some odd manner. I wouldn't think any 4" speakers are going to make much of that but maybe those Infinity's rock out in that range and it's easy enough to test. You might want to do your upgrade in stages so you can limit your rip/replace efforts.

 

[omg_bbq]

Install the amp and leave the BB's in. Listen. If you feel like it could be better, try removing the BB's. Listen. Decide which you like better. Swapping the BB's in and out should be relatively trivial unless they've been installed in some odd manner. I wouldn't think any 4" speakers are going to make much of that but maybe those Infinity's rock out in that range and it's easy enough to test. You might want to do your upgrade in stages so you can limit your rip/replace efforts.

Appreciate it, yeah I installed them normally. Easily swapped out

 

[BWepps]

Hi Everyone,

I've done a search but to no avail. Does anyone know if the Kicker KEY 180 works with the Plug N Play Harness? I can get one for cheap and may go that route.

Thanks!

 

[Karl_in_Chicago]

Hi Everyone,

I've done a search but to no avail. Does anyone know if the Kicker KEY 180 works with the Plug N Play Harness? I can get one for cheap and may go that route.

Thanks!

They have a phone #; call it and ask.

 

[BBSas]

Finished up my install today with the amp. Copied most everyone else, and replaced front with kickers, kick panel with 6.5 kickers, got the Mabbet 6.5 rear pods and put kickers in there too.

After reading this and watching a few videos only took about an hour to get the kicker 200.4 installed. Only hiccup was after putting back together.... nothing worked. I tested it and calibrated the DSP before putting everything back together. Apparently when stuffing the plugs and wires back in, the plug from the head unit barely came unplugged. Plugged it back in and put it all back together.

MUCH better than the crappy stock setup. Thanks to all contributors for making things easy. Next up, I want the kicker tailgate sub. Doesn't look too hard but it'll be a first for me wiring that up.

Which series kicker speakers did you go with?

 

[fallguy]

Which series kicker speakers did you go with?

Here are pics from my Amazon order. I also put in Boom mat behind the speakers.

Then I just bought the tailgate sub, amp and wiring kit. Sub came damaged though, screen dented in. Watched some more videos.. Hopefully install goes smoothly too.

 

[BBSas]

Thanks

 

[Bmadda]

Ok, so thanks to all contributors in this thread, I got my 200.4 setup yesterday! Haven't upgraded anything else yet (except I do have JBL soundbar, which was a huge disappointment even after flashing the acm). Huge improvement in sound! Still may be some adjustments that I can make, but overall really happy. Wana add a sub next, but I'm a little confused. The kit I ordered was 11-2. It came in 4 pieces, the main y harness to the radio, the harness to connect the key 200.4, the breakout adapter to take power/ground direct from battery, and a long 4 wire harness that connects to a load resistor, which I assume then becomes my high level inputs for a sub amp. I ordered the stinger tailgate enclosure, but I have a really nice 760w amp left over from an old install, and would be nice to put it to good use. Problem is the 760w sub amp I have does not have high level inputs at all, just has RCA jack inputs. Do I then need to run this 4 wire/2 channel output to a "line out converter"? And if so do I keep the load resistor? When it comes to audio, I only know enough to be dangerous!

EDIT: After pulling the trim panel and routing wiring, I saw my 760w amp is just too gdamn big to fit anywhere behind th rh quarter trim. Ordered a 500.1, because I am just so impressed w/kicker's DSP! I redid the key 200.4 setup w/fader set to off and now...WOW! THIS THING ROCKS! The rear channels are obviously neutered, and I have tried forscan mods to wake them up...no luck. Dont need fade, need rear speakers to bump!

 

[LPBronco]

Does anyone know where to get the instructions the original poster is flipping through in the how-to video?

 

[BBSas]

You might try to PM the original poster.

 

[redone17]

What gauge wire for the inline fuse are y’all using for the power adapter?

 

[Lurker B6G]

Hey gang, been following this thread since it started. I'm getting ready to finally jump in too. I've talked to Crutchfield about my setup currently and what I need to change. I'd like to run it by you all also since they're knowledgeable but this thread is very very in the weeds and might know specifics Crutchfield doesn't.

-Current setup is a non B&O stock 6 speaker system with all 4 of the 4 inch speakers replaced with infinity reference with 300mhz bass blockers at all 4 speakers. The kick panel speakers are still the OEM ones and have not been touched.

-What I want to do is install a 200.4 Key and not upgrade anything further.

-What Crutchfield said was to remove the 4 bass blockers and install the 200.4.

Does this ring true for all of you? Essentially the system is very harsh on the ears at anything over 12 with the Tb and Mid set one click away from 0 on the Ford EQ, Bass is cranked up a bit. Hoping that the 200.4 will bring the high frequencies down and even out the sound so that when I turn it up for highway use it isn't just all harsh high frequencies.

First, you really have 400Hz BB (because you are at 3ohms). This is not an issue (I am intentionally at 550Hz with the same speakers).

Take the BB out of the rear speakers. Leave them in the front speakers. The front speakers pass full signal to the speakers, so the blockers are needed to protect against the lower frequencies (taken by the 6.5 inch speakers). The rear signal is neutered below 200Hz, and will be fine even with the DSP from the Key amp.

 

[omg_bbq]

First, you really have 400Hz BB (because you are at 3ohms). This is not an issue (I am intentionally at 550Hz with the same speakers).

Take the BB out of the rear speakers. Leave them in the front speakers. The front speakers pass full signal to the speakers, so the blockers are needed to protect against the lower frequencies (taken by the 6.5 inch speakers). The rear signal is neutered below 200Hz, and will be fine even with the DSP from the Key amp.

Thanks for the reply! I have actually done half of this already since posting. Rears are BBless now.

I’m curious what the key amp will do. Talking about audio is so subjective. I have heard people say it gets louder, I have heard people say it sounds better, I have heard people say it still needs a sub. While I’m sure all of those things are correct I’m so unsure of what I’ll hear. To my ear it sounds decent at lower volumes now. Above 15 aka highway volume it gets harsh and grating. If I install the key, will it just get louder and a tad clearer or will it actually have a little bit more shove and fullness behind the sound, so when I turn it to highway volume it’ll be less harsh and more “full”

Again, not specifically a question for you, just sort of airing my grievances with not knowing since audio is so subjective person to person.

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