MIC Hard Top Wind Noise Reduction - 2023 Edition - Plus Bonus Fix for Bad Adhesive

[TavisB]

How did this work out for you, Travis?

Great, no wind noise this winter!

Sponsored

 

[ToddGreen]

Great, no wind noise this winter!

Okay great. What size and type of stripping did you use?

I did something similar with 1”’wide by 1/8” thick weatherstripping foam, which has been good, although is coming off on the edges a bit as it has to wrap around the metal framing. I’m curious if your method will work better.

 

[TavisB]

Okay great. What size and type of stripping did you use?

I did something similar with 1”’wide by 1/8” thick weatherstripping foam, which has been good, although is coming off on the edges a bit as it has to wrap around the metal framing. I’m curious if your method will work better.

Car Door Seal Strip,Universal Car Truck Motor Rubber Seal Strip,Weatherstrip for Car Window Door Sunroofs Engine Cover Soundproofing,Total 33Feet Long(2 Rolls of 16.5 Ft Long) https://a.co/d/idAs3gW

 

[Gluestick]

Car Door Seal Strip,Universal Car Truck Motor Rubber Seal Strip,Weatherstrip for Car Window Door Sunroofs Engine Cover Soundproofing,Total 33Feet Long(2 Rolls of 16.5 Ft Long) https://a.co/d/idAs3gW

Have any closeups of where you placed this? I couldn’t really tell in those pics but it could be I’m looking on a phone.

 

[najay]

Can you further explain how this was done? Was it on all 4 corners of each panel?

Hard to explain - there were areas where the weatherstrip was no longer sticking to the panel - I just glued those back down really well.

 

[najay]

How do you adjust the brackets?

I literally loosened the 2 torx bolts, moved the brackets a skosh, and tightened the bolts back down.

 

[Bellime]

Looks like a cleaner setup than what I did. Marking for a weekend job

 

[Bellime]

Like many, I plan to use my long-awaited Bronco for long road trips.
Like slightly fewer, I'm a bit of an NVH snob. I've had the dash off my Mustang probably 10 times searching for rattles and lining everything with felt and double-sided tape before it was silenced to my liking.
My Bronco didn't have a single rattle (thank you interior panel engineers!) but it did have a significant amount of wind noise entering the cabin from the top. "Entering" is the keyword here as it sounded like little windows were cracked open all around the vehicle.

After this exercise, wind noise was greatly reduced and sounds like it's staying outside of the cabin. I didn't use a proper sound meter, but a phone app recorded a consistent and measurable improvement at highway speed.
Haven't had issues at the car wash, though I only use the handheld pressure-washer style. Rain and snow are no issues.

Performed on a 2023 Bronco, 4-Door, Wildtrak, Sasquatch, MIC Hard Top.

Most of this technique is based on a previous write-up and I recommend reading that as well:
orion1224
MIC Noise Reduction Guide - Wind Sound - aka More (or Less) Cowbell

Part Numbers from McMaster-Carr

1. 93085K577 (5/8"w x 5/8"h 20ft)
2. 93085K556 (1/2"w x 1/2"h 10ft)
3. 93085K52 (3/8"w x 7/16"h 10ft)
4. 93085K525 (5/8"w x 3/8"h 10ft)
5. 4463K163 (3/4" ID x 3/4" wall 6ft, Qty 2)

Approx. cost --> $130 in materials + $50 in shipping and taxes --> Total $180

These parts cost ~3x as much as the overseas version, but when I bought those and opened the bag it off-gassed pretty bad and didn't want that in the cabin. I also found those to be a bit thin to maintain a good seal long term.
These materials have thicker foam but are still compliant, and are Made in USA so I trust they will last longer through the elements. After re-doing strips multiple times, I found these are the sizes that seal well while keeping panels flush without excessive force to close. It takes a bit more finagling to get the front panels in their place, but once they're in you're good!

I've laid things up differently, based on a combination of trial/error and intuition. I believe the "zipper" style on the front panel-to-windshield is more effective.
The shipping for the "pool noodle" is what drives much of the cost... you can use the one that's available at your home improvement store, but those are split and a bit small. The one listed above is thicker wall, 1/4" larger OD, and not split. This seals better and should hold its shape longer.

My top also came with the front weather stripping not properly attached. The double-sided patch was completely dry on one side, the underside strip was torn, and the adhesive under the strip was uncured. These pictures/instructions are at the end. It may not affect everyone, but it absolutely contributed to my wind noise as the T-joint was not getting a good seal. Anyone taking their front panels off should check this.

And lastly - this is a good opportunity to clean! Not just with acetone/alcohol before you bond, but the interior of the rear (trunk) top came COVERED in a layer of dark gray dust. Potentially MIC top manufacturing dust? Be sure to remove this before sticking anything to it, and probably for health reasons...

Fine print: I'm only responsible to damage to my own vehicle, not yours. Any and all modifications performed to your vehicle are at your own risk.

Now onto the fun part!

Install Notes

All weather stripping should be applied to the "angled" section of the top, not the horizontal section. The previous write-up has additional images of this. I haven't tried, but many appeared to struggle with adhesion to the horizontal section.

And remember to clean all your adhesion spots before pressing the strips on!

Front Panel

3 different types of stripping.
I wanted to cover as much length as possible so I went over rubber already laid down.
However, I didn't cover or move the soft fabric or the drain filter material. I gave my best judgement to keep channels clear.
The rear stripping is visible inside the cabin, but unless you have a flashlight looking up, you tend not to see anything. Looks good regardless.

Mid Panel

Just one strip along the rear curved section.
As before, only visible if you're looking for it. Spend an extra couple minutes laying it down and it will look nice.
I'm biased, but I think it actually looks nicer with the seal

Rear Panel

2 types of stripping.
Follow the plastic panel with the smaller stripping first. I added a small strip at the top. I only recommend one strip so water doesn't get trapped.
Recommend keeping the drain-filter clear (mesh sponge in front and above the small strips, hiding inside factory stripping).
I cut the larger pieces angled so it mates up nice. Hard to picture but you can see a very mild "crush" on the stripping when installed.
Still not as quiet as I would ideally like, but it's a significant improvement from how it arrived.

The "Gutter"

This insulation is 1/4" larger OD, thicker wall, and unslit when compared to a typical home improvement store version. This should hold its shape better and form a better seal over time.
Even though it's larger, it's still easily pushed through the gap between the chassis and installed rear panel.
No fitment issues putting on roof panels or sitting flush.
Can leave it at the full 6' but you might see it in the upper corners when the trunk is open. Cut a bit off and it will tuck behind the cage out-of-sight.

Front Outboard Latch Bracket

(Edit) Thanks to @SROC3 for mentioning this in the comments.
With the front panels removed, the outboard latch bracket bolts are accessible.
These have small but reasonable adjustment inboard and outboard. My driver side one was slammed outboard and I moved them inboard.
Before-and-after show that the front T-joint gets some better compression with the bracket shifted inboard.

Front Weather Stripping Adhesion

This was an issue when I received my Bronco.
The front leading edge of the weather stripping was misaligned causing wind noise near the T-joint. Upon inspection I found out the stripping wasn't placed or bonded correctly.
I don't know if the "sticky gunk" is per-spec, but the other adhesive strips were clearly not right.
Pealed off what was left of the sticker adhesives, cleaned it off (acetone does NOT work on the gunk, but rubbing alcohol did), lightly scuffed with sandpaper, cleaned again, and bonded it back together with a minimal layer of JB-Weld.

Get your clamps ready...

Good luck and hope this helps others!

This is a long thread and hard to see if there were any additions your original detail, so I’ll ask if you have found any adjustments/improvement since?

 

[slycat67]

You can also try adjusting the "FRONT Brackets" that they lock down into. There are two of them, one on driver and one on passenger. each has two bolts. when you loosen them, you can shift the plate around a bit. I moved mine farther out, towards the doors. Solved my small wind noise issue

I tried this approach on my 2 door, as it seemed a prudent 1st step. A couple of notes.
1) You need a star/torqs 50 to loosen the two bolts
2) I tested the bolts and they are not installed tightly but using my torque wrench it seems they’re approx 8 ft pounds. Not sure that’s a big deal but thought I’d share for the OCDs out here
3) my driver side bracket was already scooched as far left (towards the door) as possible
4) the passenger side bracket moved way more than a “scooch”, maybe 1/4”? In fact it moved so far towards the door that I could not close the clamp when I reinstalled the panel. I loosened and moved a scooch inwards and could close it as normal
5) drove at 80 mph for a few miles and not sure it really changed much. That said, still a really great idea to start with this simple 1st step. I’ll pry play with the bolt positioning a bit and see if anything materially changes.

Bonus note. There was no wind today, so I’d call it a true 80 mph wind tunnel test…

Chanel filling is next up…. gl everyone.

 

[SROC3]

I tried this approach on my 2 door, as it seemed a prudent 1st step. A couple of notes.
1) You need a star/torqs 50 to loosen the two bolts
2) I tested the bolts and they are not installed tightly but using my torque wrench it seems they’re approx 8 ft pounds. Not sure that’s a big deal but thought I’d share for the OCDs out here
3) my driver side bracket was already scooched as far left (towards the door) as possible
4) the passenger side bracket moved way more than a “scooch”, maybe 1/4”? In fact it moved so far towards the door that I could not close the clamp when I reinstalled the panel. I loosened and moved a scooch inwards and could close it as normal
5) drove at 80 mph for a few miles and not sure it really changed much. That said, still a really great idea to start with this simple 1st step. I’ll pry play with the bolt positioning a bit and see if anything materially changes.

Bonus note. There was no wind today, so I’d call it a true 80 mph wind tunnel test…

Chanel filling is next up…. gl everyone.

Try moving them forward or back? I experimented before I got the right position.

 

[Jwells104]

I am finally at peace with wind noise. I have done everything in the thread and recently added weather striping on all 4 doors and it’s very nice now.

Before the door weather stripping and stock tires, I was anywhere from 72-76 DBs, factoring in road surfaces and windy days.

With doors striped and 37in KO2s, I’m averaging roughly 67-69 DBS.

There are many factors at play, but the weather striping in the door channels seems to really make a difference.

 

[Elliot-A51]

I am finally at peace with wind noise. I have done everything in the thread and recently added weather striping on all 4 doors and it’s very nice now.

Before the door weather stripping and stock tires, I was anywhere from 72-76 DBs, factoring in road surfaces and windy days.

With doors striped and 37in KO2s, I’m averaging roughly 67-69 DBS.

There are many factors at play, but the weather striping in the door channels seems to really make a difference.

Nice. I’d love those dB levels. I’m currently between 85-90dB and working on it. Spent a while adjusting the roof panels this weekend and at least the wind noise sounds “even” now so I’m gonna add the weather stripping there and then work on the doors. I just want to get it in the 70s somewhere so it isn’t as exhausting on road trips

 

[ToddGreen]

I am finally at peace with wind noise. I have done everything in the thread and recently added weather striping on all 4 doors and it’s very nice now.

Before the door weather stripping and stock tires, I was anywhere from 72-76 DBs, factoring in road surfaces and windy days.

With doors striped and 37in KO2s, I’m averaging roughly 67-69 DBS.

There are many factors at play, but the weather striping in the door channels seems to really make a difference.

Jealous: How did you do the weatherstripping in the doors? What product did you use and where did you put it? Would be great to learn from you success!

 

[Jwells104]

Jealous: How did you do the weatherstripping in the doors? What product did you use and where did you put it? Would be great to learn from you success!

Placed the stripping linked below directly on the body. There is a channel like area and just ran it all along the bottom part of the door and up the inside of the door jam. To be safe, you probably need roughly 23-26ft to do all 4 doors

https://a.co/d/h9ylrhF

 

[Jwells104]

@ToddGreen this was my inspiration. Far more detail here by @WheresMyBronco

https://www.bronco6g.com/forum/thre...ipping-tackling-road-noise.89162/post-2165878

Sponsored