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Thinking of Selling

ab_slack

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"Power" is relative, so it really isn't useful arguing about that. I will say, my 2DR with the 2.3 and MT has never left me wanting.

I'm not an expert but doesn't the transmission move the vehicle, not the engine. So long as the two are paired appropriately, shouldn't the weight of the vehicle be a non-factor? I mean, once the vehicle is rolling, how much more effort does it require to keep it rolling?

Also, I keep my eye on the Tach, the engine doesn't appear to be working hard and has plenty of gearing (in the MT and Auto) to optimize the power and torque of the engine.

I won't speak to long-term reliability, but the simplicity and reliability was part of my hope in getting the 2.3 paired with the MT in the 2DR. Only time will tell if it was a wise or meaningful difference, but I am very happy with the combo now.

If @mpeugeot is correct, and it seems he is on to something, then the overall engine might not have an issue, but an isolated part within the engine. The speed at which it seems dealerships are opting to replace engines leads me to believe this is a known issue. I wonder if Ford is working on a retro fit that would mitigate the cost and time to replace suspect and failed engines currently in use. 🤷‍♂️
The transmission only couples the engine to the wheels. Yes this can place the engine in its power band. The engine still has to develop power.

Once rolling, one still has to overcome air friction. At highway speed that is not insignificant, but you are true weight of the vehicle isn't a major factor although it does play some role in the rolling friction.

The weight playing a small role goes out the windows if there are hills or if one is in the mountains. That will make a engine work hard.

Tachometer only shows engine RPM, not how hard the engine is working. These are not the same. The biggest sin in my opinion is lugging an engine. That is giving a car more gas at low RPM to accelerate of hold speed when a downshift will accelerate better and can hold speed better with less throttle input. Higher RPM has its own wear, but trying to push more fuel thru the cylinders when RPM is low occurs at a point where the engine is at a mechanical disadvantage and causes higher stress and worse fuel economy. In this way my experience differs from popular belief that lower RPM always yields better fuel efficiency.

I too got the I4 with the MT. I would have preferred larger engine, but prefer the manual over automatic. Automatics are always reactive and downshift only after one is into that lugging zone. I much prefer to anticipate. I worry about the stress on the engine and recognize as a turbo engine, it certainly has plenty of power, but that means even more stresses. I just hope....that with less moving parts it proves reliable. Those plastic idler pulley's make me cringe however.
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rugbysecondrow

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The transmission only couples the engine to the wheels. Yes this can place the engine in its power band. The engine still has to develop power.

Once rolling, one still has to overcome air friction. At highway speed that is not insignificant, but you are true weight of the vehicle isn't a major factor although it does play some role in the rolling friction.

The weight playing a small role goes out the windows if there are hills or if one is in the mountains. That will make a engine work hard.

Tachometer only shows engine RPM, not how hard the engine is working. These are not the same. The biggest sin in my opinion is lugging an engine. That is giving a car more gas at low RPM to accelerate of hold speed when a downshift will accelerate better and can hold speed better with less throttle input. Higher RPM has its own wear, but trying to push more fuel thru the cylinders when RPM is low occurs at a point where the engine is at a mechanical disadvantage and causes higher stress and worse fuel economy. In this way my experience differs from popular belief that lower RPM always yields better fuel efficiency.

I too got the I4 with the MT. I would have preferred larger engine, but prefer the manual over automatic. Automatics are always reactive and downshift only after one is into that lugging zone. I much prefer to anticipate. I worry about the stress on the engine and recognize as a turbo engine, it certainly has plenty of power, but that means even more stresses. I just hope....that with less moving parts it proves reliable. Those plastic idler pulley's make me cringe however.
Makes sense...thanks
 

mpeugeot

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Once rolling, one still has to overcome air friction. At highway speed that is not insignificant, but you are true weight of the vehicle isn't a major factor although it does play some role in the rolling friction.

The weight playing a small role goes out the windows if there are hills or if one is in the mountains. That will make a engine work hard.

Tachometer only shows engine RPM, not how hard the engine is working. These are not the same. The biggest sin in my opinion is lugging an engine.
The best easily measured indicator of engine load (other than measuring with a load cell) is intake manifold pressure. The more vacuum the lighter the workload. On non-boosted engines, the closer to ambient pressure, the higher the workload. On boosted engines the higher the pressure above ambient, the higher the workload.
 

CHALK911

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Try CarMax
I have taken 2 cars to CARMAX, the first was an Audi TT, they offered me $8500, I said no and sold it after 2 days on CL for $12,500. The second was a Chrysler 300 SRTDESIGN, they offered $5K, again I said no then put it on FB and sold it 4 days later for $9500. On a percentage basis, thats 50 to 90% OVER what CARMAX offered. Do that math on a $50K car.....
 

heavyD

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The 2.3 definitely does not have tons of power. It may be adequate for some/most but that description is pushing it, lol… and so far the 2.3 seems more reliable as there isn’t a specific production issue with it but long term, it may not be as reliable. It may be working harder to move such a heavy vehicle and wear out sooner. We won’t see that yet though. Assuming it’s more reliable is only speculation at this stage. Hopefully Ford is on top of the 2.7’s (hopefully limited) issue and won’t be a concern for too many more people.
I don't want to sidetrack the thread but I would wager that the 2.3 will be short and long term the more reliable engine. 1 head gasket vs 2, 1 turbocharger vs 2, 4 fuel injectors vs 12, 1 exhaust manifold vs 2, etc. Less parts usually always means better reliability as that's why Toyota is still using engine designs that date back decades.
 

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Daktari

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Our 4door 2.7L badlands dropped a valve and blew the engine, leaving us stranded when on a road trip. Ford is replacing the engine. However, the experience was so bad and now we have doubts about taking it on future road trips or taking it anywhere out of cell service. Ford denied our request that they buy it back, so we are thinking of selling it. At this point, we are not even sure about how to price it. Any suggestions for determining a good price point? MSRP was $51,875. Don't want to take a loss and know they are going over MSRP right now.
Currently has about 2900 miles.
I'd just keep it and not worry about it, but I also don't travel out of cell service into the wild without some kind of communication (satellite is best), not so much for a broken engine, but a possible broken bone.
If you want to sell it because of a 'bad aftertaste', I'd probably just look at any of the online used car apps/dealers and see what they offer, that way you don't have to deal with questions about the replaced (and most likely perfectly fine) new engine and all that, get it done quickly. Maybe you could get a bit more on the open market, but dealing with all that would not be worth it to me.

I have the 2.7 and am not worried at all, if it blows they will fix it. But I understand your concern and feelings towards going into the wild too. Good luck with your decision!
 

AZ_Liberty

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Here is the thing, both the 2.3 and 2.7 are existing engines with a reasonably decent history. The designs are pretty solid at this point.

The 2.7 gets used in the majority of F-150s, and the 2.3 in all the non GT Mustangs which handily outsell the GT. (because have you priced a Mustang GT lately?)

And you just don't here about dropped valves on these things. Now all of a sudden we have 4 people on this forum with dropped valves on the 2.7?

This is pointing towards a serious Supplier Quality Issue at the Lima plant.
 

mpeugeot

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@Nikole

Your engine part and serial numbers were as follows:

MB3E-6007-AA
EF06A21166120417
Built June 15th
 

Bandit958

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Even though its looks bad now, As long as your dealer is good with good mechanics, I would not be afraid of an engine swap. I have an 2020 F-150 with the 2.7 and the 10 spd, and I Love it. But its the thought of them taking your baby apart that's the hardest. Just don't visit the dealer to see that part.
 

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Thurmy7

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Once Ford fixes it, list it for $70k and see what happens. There are still plenty of people with $$$ that want a Bronco but can't get one. So, if yours is the exact model and color that someone out there wants and they've got money to burn you might as well cash in on your unlucky experience. I waited 15 months for mine and paid MSRP and I feel like one of the luckiest guys in the world.
 
OP
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Nikole

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jehines3

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I really feel for the OP on this one. I bought a brand new center console in 2014. At sea trial with exactly 2 hours on the engine we dropped the #1 cylinder. Never got a true diagnosis from the manufacture of the failure. They wanted to do a powerhead, I asked they do the entire unit, which they did. It was rigged poorly and just didn’t look as clean as factory. I ran the boat for 5 seasons but just could never get that nagging thought out of my head. I sold the boat and never looked back. This is the crap that has you question life choices. You want a great car at a fair price. You don’t plan on the baggage that may come along for the ride. After the last 440+ days waiting, I still keep Looking at Jeeps.
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