Tie Rod and Steering Upgrade Recommendations?

[GroovyGeek]

Most of my off-roading is fairly tame, as North Georgia doesn’t have anything too crazy to offer.

Why are you bothering with 37s then? Your ride and gas mileage will go to hell. You will put unnecessary strain on your transmission.

I took the Bronco on more serious trails in Utah over the past week, and man does that IFS take some getting used to. The first time one of the front tires dropped off an obstacle I thought WTF. 37" is a lot of weight for an IFS but not that much of a problem on a solid front axle.

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[userdude]

Why are you bothering with 37s then? Your ride and gas mileage will go to hell. You will put unnecessary strain on your transmission.

I took the Bronco on more serious trails in Utah over the past week, and man does that IFS take some getting used to. The first time one of the front tires dropped off an obstacle I thought WTF. 37" is a lot of weight for an IFS but not that much of a problem on a solid front axle.

This is good calibrated advice. 37's will be a look more than a necessity unless you're going to Uwharrie or Windrock and plan to seriously crawl on some rocks and ledges. Needing to get on the highway to get there, you'll most likely regret them (they're also heavier, more prone to bounce, increase unsprung weight, etc.).

The challenge is you've got 4" of lift and 35's will look too small. So you might go with a more truer 35 than the stock Goodyear. If you do go 37's, stay away from hardcore tires like Nitto Trail Grapplers and Interco Super Swampers. They may look cool, but ride hard on road.

I would buy a TD Industries Bronco Tie Rod kit and get a spare tie rod or two and invest in a decent jack (you don't need or want a hi lift, bottle is compact and works well). As Snacktime recommended, wear out some tie rods first, or until your rack starts to wheeze. Then go with the HOSS 3.0 (you won't need the pricy billet rack, just Fords with the Performance tie rods it comes with). Watch some videos about how to replace them, and try to go out with others who can/will help. Keep in mind your tire/wheel weighs ~90lbs as it is, and bigger tires will only increase that.

Really, you got a pretty nice ride with the Badlands Sas and that'll do you well on the highway and off road until you start pushing the edge. Focus on building skill and perhaps upgrade the armor like the some rock slides if you worry about knocks.

 

[MadMan4BamaNATL]

Oh for sure, I’m in North Georgia so there’s nothing too crazy here. And that’s why i was curious to see who’s upgraded what and how it’s worked for them so far in different scenarios.

Pretty regularly I take long road trips and try to do some offroading while I’m somewhere new when I can to experience those types of trails I can’t get back home. I’m definitely not rock crawling every single weekend, but knowing that I could if I wanted to helps

I wheel in North Ga mostly as well, along with NC and SC mountains and through the Smokeys. Whether or not some obstacles are often mild or just more depends on the weather as I’m sure you’ve observed.

For example, Old Bucktown Road with your current set up shouldn’t be risky unless you totally blow the line. However, take the rig to Beasley Knob and you’ll break a rod for sure, or come close, so why risk.

If you do have a sort of open budget, as Snacktime and others have pointed out, the 74Weld is the absolute best and most proven option. It’s around $3K, then there’s programming and install. There are no shops in Georgia I would trust with that install at all. Not trying to offend, just saying they have no experience. There are a few members and shops in Utah or Texas or @Bmadda who I’d trust to do it all day long. Not sure what they’d charge for labor, but bet on something like $1K or so, if cheaper, great!

If you’re down for a trip and have a couple of days to spare, getting that rack will do it. Otherwise, the HOSS 3.0 full set up should be good, but not sure on cost and availability, maybe others have or could chime in with that.

Here in the Eastern US, any wheeling can involve rocks, water, and mud at any given time, so with the weight and change in geometry, the investment in the rack is much more important than the actual lift.

Anyway, good luck! Think I’ve seen you out before, but if not, maybe at some point in 2024.

 

[Fishwrinkle]

Why are you bothering with 37s then? Your ride and gas mileage will go to hell. You will put unnecessary strain on your transmission.

well that's an easy answer. 37's so you can run over people to get the closest up front parking spot at the mall, duhy.

 

[GroovyGeek]

well that's an easy answer. 37's so you can run over people to get the closest up front parking spot at the mall, duhy.

Dem speed bumps in some neighborhoods are pretty beefy too. And those pesky kids only add to the height of the obstacle.

 

[Tricky Mike]

I have a little experience helping people with tie rods....

On my rig I still use my OEM tie rods and 2.0 rack, I have yet to break anything on 35s. I would describe my wheeling style as bold with a gentle pedal. I do have Level Up sleeves, which I think are safer for the rack than BroncBuster. I'm getting ready to put 37s on and will do RC bushings at that time.

Always carry at least one spare tie rod if you choose to stay with stock tie rods and rack. There are many options now, the Ranger EV317 on a budget, OEM, and now Mevotech and Dorman offer direct fit Bronco tie rods.

I chose not to invest in a stronger rack at this time because I'm likely going back to stock after my EB is done.

 

[Snacktime]

37s are so worth it! The extra ground clearance is a huge improvement on the Bronco. The Bronco is very different from other rigs I have wheeled in the past and tires are a much larger part of getting the vehicle to work. You don't really notice the difference as much when you have 20-24" of belly clearance since you can pretty much maneuver around avoiding banging diffs and drivelines. Bronco will drag the entire bottom if you take the wrong line.

You can make 35s and 4" of lift work.

 

[One more upgrade]

I treated myself and the Bronco this Christmas to a 4” coilover lift, upper control arms and an adjustable rear track bar, and have plans for 37s next. My question is what other upgrades should I consider doing when the lift gets installed? Tie rods are an obvious upgrade that’s needed, especially with a lift and bigger tires - any real defining pros and cons to the sleeves vs a beefier tie rod kit? I’d rather replace tie rods than a steering rack but I’m curious to hear some of y’all’s experiences with different options, different brands, etc. Any other components I should look at upgrading at the same time?

I’ve done a good bit of reading and research on my own but am hoping to hear more personal experiences

pic for attention

- Weld 74 makes a stage 1 for around $1K https://motorsports.74weld.com/bronco-stage-1/
- Diff drop
- KO2 37's
- Tie rods of your choice

BTW, your rig looks great. Looks clean with headlights.

 

[Lxatoledo]

I am going with RC bushings and carrying extra stock tie rods for now…stronger tie rods are an excellent way to break a stock rack and leave ya stranded imho…listen to snacktime…

Good point..............cheap fusable link.

 

[routhless]

- Weld 74 makes a stage 1 for around $1K https://motorsports.74weld.com/bronco-stage-1/
- Diff drop
- KO2 37's
- Tie rods of your choice

BTW, your rig looks great. Looks clean with headlights.

I considered 74Weld's Stage 1 but it says it's best for "light" off-roading, and the Stage 2 is best for those running 37s. So my question then - is it a waste of money going Stage 1 and not Stage 2 if I know I'll be on 37s? Or will Stage 1 be just enough support that I'll still be fine with that and the upgraded tie rods? I guess that's a question for 74W.

Truthfully I may just run OEM tie rods for a bit, carry an extra set with me, and realistically see how often/easy they break before pulling the trigger on something

(BTW, thank you!! I love the new headlights)

 

[userdude]

I considered 74Weld's Stage 1 but it says it's best for "light" off-roading, and the Stage 2 is best for those running 37s. So my question then - is it a waste of money going Stage 1 and not Stage 2 if I know I'll be on 37s? Or will Stage 1 be just enough support that I'll still be fine with that and the upgraded tie rods? I guess that's a question for 74W.

Truthfully I may just run OEM tie rods for a bit, carry an extra set with me, and realistically see how often/easy they break before pulling the trigger on something

(BTW, thank you!! I love the new headlights)

Stage 2 doesn't come with internals, so you'll also have to get your HOSS 2.0 rack internals moved over or buy a HOSS 3.0 and same. Then programmed. Then upgrade to thicker tie rods like the FP or Icons.

If you're going HOSS 3.0, I would suggest just getting the stage 3, which while pricey, has everything ready to install; all you need is an alignment afterwards. If you add in all the shipping and costs etc for HOSS 3.0 steering rack, it's about right really. TCO and all.

If you're not going to do actual rock crawling, consider just upgrading to the HOSS 3.0/Severe Duty/HD rack, which is considerably cheaper and gets you better (FP) tie rods. You might consider upgrading the bushing (can't recall if it has a brass one or not), but this is the cheapest/best way to upgrade if you're not wanting to leave it to chance or the inevitable things will break, wear out the bushing and/or snap a tie rod.

The 74Weld rack improves housing and bushing strength (allowing for thicker tie rods), plus has more perfect concentricity on the screw bolt, so you're less likely to wear out the bushing. If you're bumping and grinding on rocks, this is where that comes into play. Doing intermediate trails and whatnot, as long as you're not bouncing tires too much, you'll probably be fine with the HOSS 3.0 alone.

Full disclosure, I have the stage 3 rack but I plan on getting into some stuff. Otherwise I would've just gone with the HD rack alone.

 

[One more upgrade]

I considered 74Weld's Stage 1 but it says it's best for "light" off-roading, and the Stage 2 is best for those running 37s. So my question then - is it a waste of money going Stage 1 and not Stage 2 if I know I'll be on 37s? Or will Stage 1 be just enough support that I'll still be fine with that and the upgraded tie rods? I guess that's a question for 74W.

Truthfully I may just run OEM tie rods for a bit, carry an extra set with me, and realistically see how often/easy they break before pulling the trigger on something

(BTW, thank you!! I love the new headlights)

I run the Bronc Buster bushing and stage 3 billet housing. I have broken a stock tie rod, but I have no doubt it was my fault. I have been very happy with my Icon tie rods, and there are many other good choices. I live in Arizona, where I constantly run over large rocks or climb something. It's peace of mind for me, hoping I'm not lying on my back in 100-degree weather changing a tie rod. I feel pretty comfortable with the setup I am running now. There are many opinions on this topic, but I would choose what works best for you.

 

[2022 base]

I have RC bushings and upgraded tie rods for my base model and plan to do mostly level 3 rated trails. I am on 33" stock badlands wheels and tires and do not plan to go any bigger than true 33" tires. My question is do I need to purchase the 74 weld stage 1 or will the factory rack handle the new upgrades ok for what I have now?

 

[Oldhippie]

I have RC bushings and upgraded tie rods for my base model and plan to do mostly level 3 rated trails. I am on 33" stock badlands wheels and tires and do not plan to go any bigger than true 33" tires. My question is do I need to purchase the 74 weld stage 1 or will the factory rack handle the new upgrades ok for what I have now?

I would put the stock tie rods back on and carry the upgraded ones…

 

[2022 base]

I would put the stock tie rods back on and carry the upgraded ones…

I am doing no more than the broncbuster clamps is doing to the rack, how will this effect the steering rack is a more focused question?

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