Hard to tell for sure, but looking at the catalog pictures, it almost looks like the Braptor has an additional clutch plate maybe…?
Braptor one on top
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Braptor one on top
And of course Ford has no consistency in orientation for the parts displayedHard to tell for sure, but looking at the catalog pictures, it almost looks like the Braptor has an additional clutch plate maybe…?
Braptor one on top
Suncoast mentioned trying to fit another plate in there but never did confirm if it would be possible when they received the clutch.
Clutch showed up today that we’ll install without any modification. This will maybe give us an opportunity to see if there’s a noticeable difference between oem and modded clutch.
The friction paper coverage on each plate is pretty thin compared to what we could have on there. Talked to Suncoast and when the new plates are coated they’ll maximize the contact area. That is, if we use the OEM plates. After looking at the setup they’re going to ask a third party their thoughts on making all new friction plates and we’ll go with whatever setup is going to have the most grip/strength.
There is some space available but without having the case apart and looking at how the clutch engages with the system I’m not certain we’ll be able to get any additional plates in there.
The friction paper coverage on each plate is pretty thin compared to what we could have on there. Talked to Suncoast and when the new plates are coated they’ll maximize the contact area. That is, if we use the OEM plates. After looking at the setup they’re going to ask a third party their thoughts on making all new friction plates and we’ll go with whatever setup is going to have the most grip/strength.
There is some space available but without having the case apart and looking at how the clutch engages with the system I’m not certain we’ll be able to get any additional plates in there.
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So you ordered a Braptor clutch?Clutch showed up today that we’ll install without any modification. This will maybe give us an opportunity to see if there’s a noticeable difference between oem and modded clutch.
The friction paper coverage on each plate is pretty thin compared to what we could have on there. Talked to Suncoast and when the new plates are coated they’ll maximize the contact area. That is, if we use the OEM plates. After looking at the setup they’re going to ask a third party their thoughts on making all new friction plates and we’ll go with whatever setup is going to have the most grip/strength.
There is some space available but without having the case apart and looking at how the clutch engages with the system I’m not certain we’ll be able to get any additional plates in there.
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I did not. These are both normal clutches. Didn’t find out about braptor clutch being different until the help from this thread. Not sure if it would show up in time for me to actually do anything with it so I’ll just try to see what I can with these ones.
Clutch people decided a carbon friction paper would be the best material for our use. I didn’t get an opportunity to ask why.
Unfortunately it won’t show up in time to get installed so we have a few months before getting it in there.
Brand new friction plate with OEM coating-
New coating applied to maximize available contact-
We’ll see if it makes a difference!
Unfortunately it won’t show up in time to get installed so we have a few months before getting it in there.
Brand new friction plate with OEM coating-
New coating applied to maximize available contact-
We’ll see if it makes a difference!
While you got the case apart can you measure the diameter of the planet gear on the low range portion? Here is a H3 4:1 for comparison...also tooth count on big ring?Clutch people decided a carbon friction paper would be the best material for our use. I didn’t get an opportunity to ask why.
Unfortunately it won’t show up in time to get installed so we have a few months before getting it in there.
Brand new friction plate with OEM coating-
New coating applied to maximize available contact-
We’ll see if it makes a difference!
It will be awhile before we have it apart but I’ll try. At least two months.While you got the case apart can you measure the diameter of the planet gear on the low range portion? Here is a H3 4:1 for comparison...also tooth count on big ring?
I've been watching a lot of Toyota videos lately and they've got me wondering - is the Bronco case constructed in such a way that it would be possible to run multiple reduction stages with the right adapter?
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Last time I looked into this, which was literally 25 years ago, the guys that were doing that with Toyotas and the isuzu's transfer cases and were building them have multiple ratios and super low range Etc... we're all doing it with gear driven ones... no chains.
I wheeled with a guy in 2010 at Moab, and he had a super tricked out Toyota on 42s and one of those three or four range Toyota transfer cases. Halfway through poison spider he damaged something internally and it would only run in one of the lower ranges... I remember it vividly because I had to follow him all the way out of there at 20 miles an hour with the hazards on when he got to the highway. So at that point I knew it wasn't a modification I was going to be interested in anytime soon.
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I have a 93 Toyota setup like that, with a 4.7 "Trail creeper" and a stock 2.23 transfer case.. (Chevy 4.3 motor, th350 trans, 4.10 d60 axles) honestly, it makes for a fragile drive line, and I only use the 4.7 reduction in really gnarly spots, and with great care..
I can't see taking a 6g Bronco anywhere you could use that kind of gearing (yet!), and by the time we are taking them places like that, hopefully someone like advanced adapters will be making crawl boxes for them..
I can't see taking a 6g Bronco anywhere you could use that kind of gearing (yet!), and by the time we are taking them places like that, hopefully someone like advanced adapters will be making crawl boxes for them..
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What overall drive ratios are you guys shooting for? With the Advanced 4x4 transfer case and 4.7 axle a stock Bronco has 80:1 with a manual in crawler and 70:1 with the automatic in tenth gear, which I think is M2. That's an awful lot of torque even with a 2.3L.
Or are you just trying to go slower? I'm not trying to debate you. I'm just trying to understand. After all, a Unimog can get ridiculously low, 100:1 and lower.
extreme low gears helped with pulling out my Peterbilt! I was literally smoking all four tires on dry pavement and it finally came free
For me, that's what it's all about - just creepin' along. Arguably more important in a manual than an auto. I've seen these double Toyotas with ratios well over 200:1 and a triple truck with a 580:1 that you could start in gear and watch it inch along at idle.
Crawl in 4-LO is slow, but these guys are slower than some glaciers.
I've also wondered whether we could just get a deeper single reduction inside the current case.
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