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ColonelAngus

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Yeah push for them to cover, if not go to another dealer, if they won't help you, go through Ford. Unless there's more to the story, that shouldn't have happened, not because of just tires.
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I don’t disagree but Ford also promotes modding the Bronco. The fender liners are engraved with “lift me baby.” Maybe they were being ironic and didn’t mean it literally.
Also, while they do promote modding the bronco, particularly 'lift me, baby', they cover their a$$ by offering a warranty backed lift kit.
 

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i am wondering if the 4 link suspension during a high or low obstacle twist of axle vs body is causing a twisting of the left tube vs the right tube and the weak points are the plug welds or now the tubes themselves ,easy to duplicate in shop by removing 1 of the 4 link end bolts and lift 1 side to see if hole still lines up
picture # 2 is what I think is a good situation of suspension binding,but they should have thought on how to handle it
I mentioned this in the last two threads with this issue. Notice the OP in this thread has suspension links with solid joints. The first guy to report this also did. I really do believe we are seeing proof of binding here and the plug welds on the axle are just the weakest link. The forces produced during bind are extreme. Like they can literally fatigue control arm mounts to the point of ripping off the frame or axle. Sure, it's entirely possible that the plug welds are bad or not strong enough, but I believe that they would last significantly longer on a suspension that still uses standard rubber bushings. I'm positive that we are going to keep seeing these failures, and I would bet that the overwhelming majority of failures are going to be on broncos that have been modified with solid suspension pivots, rod ends, johnny joints, etc.
 

vrtical

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I mentioned this in the last two threads with this issue. Notice the OP in this thread has suspension links with solid joints. The first guy to report this also did. I really do believe we are seeing proof of binding here and the plug welds on the axle are just the weakest link. The forces produced during bind are extreme. Like they can literally fatigue control arm mounts to the point of ripping off the frame or axle. Sure, it's entirely possible that the plug welds are bad or not strong enough, but I believe that they would last significantly longer on a suspension that still uses standard rubber bushings. I'm positive that we are going to keep seeing these failures, and I would bet that the overwhelming majority of failures are going to be on broncos that have been modified with solid suspension pivots, rod ends, johnny joints, etc.
This will definitely cause issues if you don't reinforce other things. The rubber bushings have a ton of play in them so when you go to a delrin aka solid stuff, there is no longer any room for flex.
 

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i am wondering if the 4 link suspension during a high or low obstacle twist of axle vs body is causing a twisting of the left tube vs the right tube and the weak points are the plug welds or now the tubes themselves ,easy to duplicate in shop by removing 1 of the 4 link end bolts and lift 1 side to see if hole still lines up
Edit: See later posts, I no longer think that rigid links will cause suspension binding, and have explained why.

Ironically the dealer says it's the tires but it's actually the linkages. They look great, but this is why I am wary of joints that don't have compliance, at least until you go to a triangulated 4-bar set up. With the current 5 link set up, the 4 trailing control arms need a bit of compliance to allow max articulation, how much depends on the geometry of course. Its possible to design it so that no compliance is needed but then issues arise with normal handling and torque or brake jack/dive.
 
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freetors

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This will definitely cause issues if you don't reinforce other things. The rubber bushings have a ton of play in them so when you go to a delrin aka solid stuff, there is no longer any room for flex.
I think the other really important takeaway from the bind discussion is that yes, while you can reinforce and overbuild every relevant component to withstand the forces, if you still actually have bind you're also greatly limiting the performance and articulation of your suspension.
 

killaz05

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Some claiming it is the tires but I believe it is manufacturing defect in the OP's axle. If there was someone to find that the axle was a weak link, the way BroncBuster wheels, he would have found it. I have seen many a bronco run 37s, use TTA and wheel hard but have no issues. I hope OP gets it resolved and Ford steps up.
 

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I want to point out that “one” plug weld cannot fail without the other two failing. It’s either 3 or nothing.

I can also understand that with one wheel jammed into the fenderwell and the other wheel hanging, the upper and lower struts are putting a “geometric” twist on the axle tubes. The 6 plug welds are “resisting” this twist. This moment is exacerbated by the tire weight on the suspended side. More tire weight, more twisting force (moment). With no “give” in the bushings, this axle twist might also be magnified.

Just an opinion…..
 

blacksapphirez

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no one sells a truss kit for Broncos yet?
 

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This. Ironically the dealer says it's the tires but it's actually the linkages. They look great, but this is why I am wary of joints that don't have compliance, at least until you go to a triangulated 4-bar set up. With the current 5 link set up, the 4 trailing control arms need a bit of compliance to allow max articulation, how much depends on the geometry of course. Its possible to design it so that no compliance is needed but then issues arise with normal handling and torque or brake jack/dive.

If you are set on running the "upgraded" links with rigid joints I wonder how it would handle if you kept one or two of the top links stock. My imagination also wonders what it would be like to run only 3 of the 4 rear trailing arms . Obviously, that takes a hit on normal handling, and adds stress to the remaining links, but would definitely open up flex without binding, maybe what you need is a single arm quick disconnect like a sway bar lol. I'm inclined to keep compliant members until (maybe) go all the way to a triangulated set up.
could use something like the Metal Cloak Lock-N-Load Arm, I use one of these on the front of my one Jeep TJ that has a radious arm setup... Unlock it off-road and it avoids a lot of bind, Lock it on road, and it keeps things a lot more rigid..

https://metalcloak.com/lock-n-load-replacement-upper-arm-for-radius-suspension-tj-lj.html
 

Ninjak

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At this point, I would call Ford direct. Have them send someone to inspect the vehicle. Your 37's did not cause this to fail. The dealer is going with the "Mod fails everything" talk. 4 words, Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act.

I say this because I have run into this same issue when I had my GT350. Short story, the engine went boom. The dealer claimed it was because I had headers and a CAI filter. (Was Ford Performance Air Raid) I said no. Called Ford. Arrange to have a Ford engineer look at my vehicle.
If it was my fault, I pay for the visit and the new engine. If a defective issue, Ford warranty covers it.

In the end, it was the Ford engine. Number 7 rod let go, due to fault tolerance error, and put a 50 cent hole in my block. Nothing to do with my headers or CAI, or even my E85 tune. Ford engineer replaced my engine under warranty with an updated 2019 gen 2 engine. (Car was a 2017) that had resolved quite a few issues the gen 1 had. Also, my headers, CAI, and the tune was put back on as well. The real kicker was the service guy admitted that the dealership did not want to do the work because they felt they would not get enough back for the hours it would take to do the job.

I went through all of the people on the GT350 forums telling me what I could not do and what was going to happen until it happened. Then it was as silent as a church mouse in that thread.

Go get Ford involved. Work the issue. You may be surprised by the outcome.
 
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kgolive

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At this point, I would call Ford direct. Have them send someone to inspect the vehicle. Your 37's did not cause this to fail. The dealer is going with the "Mod fails everything" talk. 4 words, Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act.

I say this because I have run into this same issue when I had my GT350. Short story, the engine went boom. The dealer claimed it was because I had headers and a CAI filter. (Was Ford Performance Air Raid) I said no. Called Ford. Arrange to have a Ford engineer look at my vehicle.
If it was my fault, I pay for the visit and the new engine. If a defective issue, Ford warranty covers it.

In the end, it was the Ford engine. Number 7 rod let go, due to fault tolerance error, and put a 50 cent hole in my block. Nothing to do with my headers or CAI, or even my E85 tune. Ford engineer replaced my engine under warranty with an updated 2019 gen 2 engine. (Car was a 2017) that had resolved quite a few issues the gen 1 had. Also, my headers, CAI, and the tune was put back on as well. The real kicker was the service guy admitted that the dealership did not want to do the work because they felt they would not get enough back for the hours it would take to do the job.

I went through all of the people on the GT350 forums telling me what I could not do and what was going to happen until it happened. Then it was as silent as a church mouse in that thread.

Go get Ford involved. Work the issue. You may be surprised by the outcome.
It’s at my company’s ford store now where they said a field engineer will come out and look at it. It could take a few weeks or up to a month before they come out.
 

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The real kicker was the service guy admitted that the dealership did not want to do the work because they felt they would not get enough back for the hours it would take to do the job.
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