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Dirty Bronco

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You are correct about this. They are useful for initial assembly at the factory but after that, just another part that can cause a failure during removal/installation. I took mine off after seeing a couple others here that developed stress cracks in this area.

I would see if the dealer can open a GCCT case and try to get you some assistance with the repair. Not saying it will happen but since you bought it new and have a Ford ESP, your LTV score should be pretty high which means they're more likely to offer some type of help.
Can I ask how you removed yours? I'd like to avoid this same issue if possible. Did you saw yours off?
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Can I ask how you removed yours? I'd like to avoid this same issue if possible. Did you saw yours off?
Just remove the two small torx screws and the plastic locator should just fall off. If it stays in the body, give it a few taps and pull it out.
 

JimmyG

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Screw any extended warranty, this should be COVERED under the warranty that comes with the vehicle.
 

JohnnyBronco

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You modified it and it broke as a result. Why should that be covered by warranty?
He claims it broke before modification (addition of weatherstripping not authorized or approved or in accessory catalog) and since roof is designed to be removed and/or replaced for a period with a factory softtop, the mere fact of removal or switching tops nowhere is mandated to be performed by an ASE certified tech.

It would be like hooks on side windows breaking from being disconnected but prior to using a button splice to tighten it up.

That being said, extended warranties usually only cover moving parts. Example I had was the plastic thermostat housing on my LR3 self destructor and emptied engine of all coolant. Fortunately no engine damage but coverage of a plastic accessory to powertrain was denied. Thermostat housing is an accessory and not integral to powertrain
 

JohnnyBronco

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Modified what? I lifted it up and placed it down on the Bronco 2-3 inches aft of where I lifted it.

Ya, I do think that a material defect should be covered. The purpose of my post is to warn others that they won't be covered.

You didn't see me saying that my CV joint should be covered when it popped apart as I replaced my suspension... No, I made a mistake, tightened something in the wrong order, and it popped apart. Totally my fault (bad design, but I caused it to separate). There's a big difference.

Maybe 2.7 engine warranties will be denied because the person had the audacity to change the position of the valve by starting the motor. The valve would have never broken if you didn't take it off the valve seat.
So you modified your suspension, which obviously led to what, a stiffer ride, leading to excess vibration and a Crack in the roof. Denied. And you now said it happened when reinstalling roof without a Ford engineer at your side to prevent and protuberances from contacting parts they shouldn't. Denied
 

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why there is damage to the flange in the area of the bolt hole on the high of the shear condition, and why the direction of the of the shear condition is opposite of what point loading the flange would cause, but exactly what would be caused by an over torqued fastener. Both of those factors would indicate that it broke from over tightening the fastener.
Ford Bronco Warning: Extended Warranty didn't cover MIC Top crack damage 1666268422698
 
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JohnnyBronco

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Still a poor design. There should be metal plate embedded in the fiberglass at the mounting points.

And my contention , especially for the aftermarket roof makers, use the same 3 holes per side that the soft top is attached to. Bolts come out, bolts go in, reinstall trim
 

Ducati1098

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Screw any extended warranty, this should be COVERED under the warranty that comes with the vehicle.
His vehicle is out of the warranty period. Warranties don’t last forever.
 

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Ducati1098

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No it cracked before I even put the weather stripping on the the vehicle. I lifted the top up, moved it 2 to 3 inches rearward and it cracked as I set it back down. Stop making up "facts" that have nothing to do with the failure. Next you are going to suggest that I used the wrong wax...

The weather stripping by the way was all the way in the front along the B pillars, which in no way could have caused the crack.
I must be wrong. I am sure the top just disintegrated. You mentioned you torqued the bolts to spec, why would you torque the bolts to spec if it was already cracked? I was just following the logic as you laid it out.
 
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I must be wrong. I am sure the top just disintegrated. You mentioned you torqued the bolts to spec, why would you torque the bolts to spec if it was already cracked? I was just following the logic as you laid it out.
Because I still had to drive it to work 365 miles away. What would you have done?

It was Sunday evening, I had to report for duty Monday at 0730, and the top was cracked.

Maybe you would have just tightened it without any regard to the specifications and given Ford another reason to deny the warranty.

I used a torque wrench so that Ford could not use that as a reason to deny my warranty.

Strange as it may seem, I use a torque wrench on most of the bolts on my vehicles. I will concede, the license plate isn't torque to spec, the shorty radio antenna, and the hood struts weren't either; but all the suspension bolts, wheel lugs, and anything else that needs to not fall off are torqued to spec. I even purchased a 3/4" torque wrench to get the 221 ft/lbs of torque needed for the axle shafts and the 350 ft/lbs of torque needed for replacing the rear shocks.

Why is this so hard to understand?
 
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mpeugeot

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So you modified your suspension, which obviously led to what, a stiffer ride, leading to excess vibration and a Crack in the roof. Denied. And you now said it happened when reinstalling roof without a Ford engineer at your side to prevent and protuberances from contacting parts they shouldn't. Denied
LMFAO, yes, entirely. I thought about off-roading it too...

 

MileHighCitizen

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Because I still had to drive it to work 365 miles away. What would you have done?

It was Sunday evening, I had to report for duty Monday at 0730, and the top was cracked.

Maybe you would have just tightened it without any regard to the specifications and given Ford another reason to deny the warranty.

I used a torque wrench so that Ford could not use that as a reason to deny my warranty.

Strange as it may seem, I use a torque wrench on most of the bolts on my vehicles. I will concede, the license plate isn't torque to spec, the shorty radio antenna, and the hood struts weren't either; but all the suspension bolts, wheel lugs, and anything else that needs to not fall off are torqued to spec. I even purchased a 3/4" torque wrench to get the 221 ft/lbs of torque needed for the axle shafts and the 350 ft/lbs of torque needed for replacing the rear shocks.

Why is this so hard to understand?
It's not hard to understand, you're explaining it just fine.

There is just too many keyboard detectives on here that want to be the one to prove you wrong and lick Fords boots. Don't feed the trolls.
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