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Disable fake engine sound?

Ig_bronco

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Usually it is pumped out. This is a teal thing although do not know if our Broncos have it. Fake V8 sounds first appeared several years ago on Mustangs that sounded like Fusions, lol.

And electric vehicles I believe are required to make noise at stoplights so that the blind know they are there. My ICE vehicles, however make no noise other than radio when engine shuts off when stopped. But they do male noise while stopping
That makes sense cuz blind people need to be driving... And if you rebuttal with "what if they walk"... thats what the stick is for.
 

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Yeah, it doesn't seem conclusive on whether Lux has "enhanced engine sounds" or maybe some sort of ANC or anything else.

I've had the alternator whine on previous installs before. Those typically just required a different grounding spot, and even one just had a bad ground internal to the amp.

What makes me think that what I'm dealing with is a fake engine noise as opposed to ground loop is that there's no whine involved. I can be at 3,000 RPM and not hear a thing. But if I'm accelerating and really give it the beans, the subwoofers give off a low bass frequency. I tried it in my driveway - revved the engine to about 3,500 RPM, and as soon as I stop revving, the bass note is gone, and doesn't subtly go back down as the revs decrease, which is normally the case of any ground loop/alternator whine.

Do you have speed compensated volume toggled on? Might be the headunint turning up volume when the RPMs climb and then you hear it.
 
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Do you have speed compensated volume toggled on? Might be the headunint turning up volume when the RPMs climb and then you hear it.
Great suggestion, but that's the first setting I turned all the way off. I don't like the car controlling the volume, and it makes setting the amp gains practically impossible.
 

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I find the different opinions here interesting. I have a 2.7 lux and am convinced it has fake engine noises, at 7000 miles now of driving. More noticeable at times, and even with the stereo off. I have no desire to switch out the b&o system because I think it sounds good, but need to get rid of this fake engine noise.
 

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Okay just called my buddy. It is part of the ANC setup so yeah more prominent and or exclusive to vehicles with Lux. It's part of the ANC (Active Noise Cancellation) so those without Lux either get a reduced version of the fake ass engine noise or none at all. I knew it was generally complained about for vehicles with higher trims. Anyways if you have Lux there is ANC in the DSP and you can turn it off with ForScan and see if it helps make it go away. @LightRefined

My original post in the ACM (Audio Control Module) is for Software ANC. Both may need to be disabled. Also both may not work. No clue but good luck. Weiners crossed


783-01-01*xxxxx--C=ANC Disabled D=ANC Enabled
I can confirm this worked. I added 2 subs and had awful Exhaust noise coming through the subs, but this fixed it. I have the LUX package for reference. Thanks for the help
 

drew707

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I can confirm this worked. I added 2 subs and had awful Exhaust noise coming through the subs, but this fixed it. I have the LUX package for reference. Thanks for the help
Thank you for the update hopefully this resolves @LightRefined 's issue as well
 

Paul Gagnon

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can't say I have noticed any fake noise - or sowing machine sounds for that matter. BL Sasquatch with Lux. Only time I ever hear anything of the engine is when I accelerate and it's not particularly loud.
I also don't notice any active noise cancelling, are we sure that's installed? I have the soft top and above 75 or so it gets loud, like a cracked open window in the back, but never so bad that I'd have to yell and music can be heard just fine.

Driving with the top open and windows down sounds the same as all buttoned up to me. Not that I ever really paid much attention.
You notice if it had sowing machine sounds.

Sewing machine vs Sowing machine lol

Ford Bronco Disable fake engine sound? gh-112321-best-sewing-machines-1637693344


Ford Bronco Disable fake engine sound? seed-drill-machine-11-tyne-500x500
 
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Alrighty, bit of an update for anyone wondering:

I worked with my buddy yesterday who helped me with the install. The first thing we wanted to test was whether or not the bass we would hear when I accelerate would happen in his system. So we ran a long set of RCAs from my LOC to the sub amp in his truck - this removes my amp and wiring and everything else from the equation. And sure enough, when I would hit the gas in my Bronco, HIS subwoofers would make the same sound I was hearing from mine. This was with the audio in my Bronco turned all the way down.

This confirmed the bass note occurring from me hitting the gas was not due to my amp's ground, power, electrical interference, or anything else. It must be the ANC signal @drew707 has mentioned.

Now here's the fun part.. we already planned on changing the inputs on my LC2i from both front kick panel speakers, to having one pair from the kick panel speaker and the other pair from the factory subwoofer. So we did that, and nothing changed. Still had bass coming out when I hit the gas in park, and we were still missing bass lower than ~50hz.

Feeling defeated, we tried one last thing. We removed the kick panel speaker input altogether, and only used the pair of inputs from the factory subwoofer, and then created a short jumper cable to fill the 2 other inputs on the LOC. At this point, the LOC is only being fed by the positive and negative of the factory subwoofer, VLT-OG and YE, respectively.

I have no idea why, but doing that fixed all of the problems we were facing. No more bass from hitting the gas, and now I have a nice clean bass signal that sounds great.

In conclusion, if there's a "fake engine noise" or ANC signal, it's being sent to the speakers, and not the factory subwoofer.

Let me know if anyone has any questions.
 

drew707

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Alrighty, bit of an update for anyone wondering:

I worked with my buddy yesterday who helped me with the install. The first thing we wanted to test was whether or not the bass we would hear when I accelerate would happen in his system. So we ran a long set of RCAs from my LOC to the sub amp in his truck - this removes my amp and wiring and everything else from the equation. And sure enough, when I would hit the gas in my Bronco, HIS subwoofers would make the same sound I was hearing from mine. This was with the audio in my Bronco turned all the way down.

This confirmed the bass note occurring from me hitting the gas was not due to my amp's ground, power, electrical interference, or anything else. It must be the ANC signal @drew707 has mentioned.

Now here's the fun part.. we already planned on changing the inputs on my LC2i from both front kick panel speakers, to having one pair from the kick panel speaker and the other pair from the factory subwoofer. So we did that, and nothing changed. Still had bass coming out when I hit the gas in park, and we were still missing bass lower than ~50hz.

Feeling defeated, we tried one last thing. We removed the kick panel speaker input altogether, and only used the pair of inputs from the factory subwoofer, and then created a short jumper cable to fill the 2 other inputs on the LOC. At this point, the LOC is only being fed by the positive and negative of the factory subwoofer, VLT-OG and YE, respectively.

I have no idea why, but doing that fixed all of the problems we were facing. No more bass from hitting the gas, and now I have a nice clean bass signal that sounds great.

In conclusion, if there's a "fake engine noise" or ANC signal, it's being sent to the speakers, and not the factory subwoofer.

Let me know if anyone has any questions.
Yes one question, did you try ForScan at all?
 

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Yes one question, did you try ForScan at all?
That would've been the simplest test. But I'm super hesitant to play around with the vehicle's computer. I don't want to give Ford any reason to cancel my warranty, even if I changed a couple 1s to 0s. For all intents and purposes, aside from a fuse tap, my Bronco is bone stock.. and I'm trying to keep it that way.
 

drew707

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That would've been the simplest test. But I'm super hesitant to play around with the vehicle's computer. I don't want to give Ford any reason to cancel my warranty, even if I changed a couple 1s to 0s. For all intents and purposes, aside from a fuse tap, my Bronco is bone stock.. and I'm trying to keep it that way.
I definitely understand. Was hoping to definitively put it to rest that it can resolve the issue. Someone else said it worked for them so I was hopeful you could have added weight to the situation. Regardless super glad you did get this issue eliminated.
 
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I definitely understand. Was hoping to definitively put it to rest that it can resolve. Someone else said it worked for them so I was hopeful you could have added weight to the situation. Regardless super glad you did get this issue eliminated.
I know, I almost feel like I've failed you, lol. I genuinely appreciate all the feedback you've given, including the exact values that can potentially be changed to remove "fake ass engine noise," I just don't want to take any chances on this vehicle. I'm at 3,900 miles on my 2.7, and I'm still waiting for the day I suddenly lose power and a dealership tells me my engine exploded.
 

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I know, I almost feel like I've failed you, lol. I genuinely appreciate all the feedback you've given, including the exact values that can potentially be changed to remove "fake ass engine noise," I just don't want to take any chances on this vehicle. I'm at 3,900 miles on my 2.7, and I'm still waiting for the day I suddenly lose power and a dealership tells me my engine exploded.
No worries at all like I said I totally get it. Hope others get the help they need from the information here when they face an issue like this in the future.
 

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All Fords (pretty much all cars period)have ANC and piped in sounds, easily changed in forscan(once modeuls are known). Mustang folks have been doiNg it for years. Just finished my system upgrade and it was immediately clear it's there.
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