Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first!

[ShortBus.cle]

I was actually thinking about this the other day. Don't get me wrong, I love the OEM look and ease of using the harness (I've made harnesses and the minimum amount to spend to get the correct connectors / pins / wire / tape etc isn't cheap and it takes time / work to make 'em) but I wondered about powering the Key 200.4 off the factory ACM (audio control module) circuit. That circuit is 20A. I was thinking that in most cases that's plenty of power, but since I'm adding a Kicker Hideaway sub (which will have power running directly to the battery) I figured I might look at doing the same thing you did while I'm in there.

So you were having clipping issues or were you hitting the limiter on the amp before you ran a dedicated power wire?

I was getting some bad clipping at pretty low volume. Some songs now will trigger the limiter even after running power to the battery, but that’s at like 24+ volume. Currently I replaced all the speakers with Kicker CS series and added the kicker key. Just ordered the hideaway 10in to top it all off. Hoping that will finally satisfy the itch.

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[Sherminiator]

Mine came with a note in the package with the wiring diagram. I can take a picture but it was handwritten and may not be the same

I have one too-I'm going with they are the same-I can post it later today.

 

[ctandc]

I was getting some bad clipping at pretty low volume. Some songs now will trigger the limiter even after running power to the battery, but that’s at like 24+ volume. Currently I replaced all the speakers with Kicker CS series and added the kicker key. Just ordered the hideaway 10in to top it all off. Hoping that will finally satisfy the itch.

Yeah, I'm going to document where the limiter is hitting on mine now - using pink noise from Kicker - and go from there. Right now I'm waiting on the Kicker Hideaway sub and the add on harness from plugnplay.

I did notice this in Kicker's documentation on the Key 200.4 Amp:

"The KEY amplifier is capable of using the wiring directly from the head unit, but for best results it is recommended you use power and ground wiring from the vehicle's battery and chassis. Kicker recommends 14 gauge wire."

 

[Aurongel]

How did you set your amp up? Plug n play harness? I think I had the same issue and just fixed it today. I was relying on power from the head until only using the plug n play harness. When I ran power straight to the battery the clipping went away.

I have it exclusively wired to the plugnplaykits harness, correct. What is the process like running it to the battery? What volume levels were you previously seeing clipping at?

 

[ShortBus.cle]

@Aurongel
Running it to the battery wasn’t too bad, especially if you mounted the amp on the drivers side. I had a wiring kit from crutchfield that helped. I’ll try to take some pictures today.

Depending on the song it was clipping at as low as volume 12. I also am going to do my own grounding wire too, I’m getting some noise when no music is playing.

 

[ShortBus.cle]

I have it exclusively wired to the plugnplaykits harness, correct. What is the process like running it to the battery? What volume levels were you previously seeing clipping at?

 

[Sherminiator]

Great photos! I just ordered another cable and inline fuse to wire up the Key200 when I go to install it. I'm just waiting on the B&O sub enclosure to show up so I can get started...though I might just put the Key AMPs and speakers and leave the rear cargo panel off till it does show up.

 

[Sherminiator]

Mine came with a note in the package with the wiring diagram. I can take a picture but it was handwritten and may not be the same

This is what I got in mine-I see no reason why it should be different for each harness
@BFizzy

I just modified the harness that comes with the Key500 using that.

 

[Sherminiator]

So super stupid question-when you cut the wire to the fuse, did you do it the side closest to the large plug (to the left) or the other side-I'm assuming the large plug but just double checking and I haven't actually put my head under the dash yet.

 

[mcinfantry]

Is it possible the wire nut instead of solder isnt a good connection and may cause issues? I was always taught wire nuts are never good for connections that vibrate or stranded wire (auto)

 

[ctandc]

I MAY do the same thing, since I'm waiting on an add-on harness and Kicker hideaway sub. After following the setup below, I don't have any clipping at a volume I'm willing to try at least.

1. Reset the amp to default setting (hold the mic button down for 10 seconds - you'll hear a long beep).
2. Turn the amp gains ALL the way down (CCW)
3. Set the head unit EQ (Treble, Bass, Mids) where you WANT it.
4. Play the Kicker pink noise and turn the volume up until you see the LIMITER LED, then back the volume off one click - that's your MAX volume
5. Run the Kicker DSP setup with the pink noise on your max volume setting
6. After setup completes, click the mic button once, pink noise starts again. Now w/ pink noise playing at the SAME volume, turn each gain up until you hit the limiter LED, then back it off a bit.
7. Test the sound and see what you think.

After doing this - this thing goes WAY louder than I'll ever play it with no clipping.

The only reason I may consider running the Kicker power wire to the battery is simple - I have to add pins / wires to the existing harness anyway to install the Kicker Hideaway sub, so I'll be in there and harness will be out. I also have to run power / ground for the sub as well.

Honestly if I do it, I'll depin the amp power wire from the plug n play harness completely and run it to the battery and rewrap the harness.

 

[Biff]

This is what I got in mine-I see no reason why it should be different for each harness
@BFizzy

I just modified the harness that comes with the Key500 using that.

Thank you very much for posting the pic of the wiring harness note, as my PNP Kit 11-4 did not include one. I will be attempting to add my Kicker 11HS8 this weekend. I currently have the Kicker Key 200.4 installed and it sounds amazing with the four 4” Infinity Reference speakers I swapped to in the dash and rear pods, but cannot wait to round out the sound with the sub!

 

[ShortBus.cle]

So super stupid question-when you cut the wire to the fuse, did you do it the side closest to the large plug (to the left) or the other side-I'm assuming the large plug but just double checking and I haven't actually put my head under the dash yet.

Yes you want to cut it on the side the Amp is on, not sure if that’s the large plug or not.

 

[ShortBus.cle]

Is it possible the wire nut instead of solder isnt a good connection and may cause issues? I was always taught wire nuts are never good for connections that vibrate or stranded wire (auto)

Yeah that’s a good point. The wire nut solved the clipping problem for me so no issues so far. If I do get an issue that will be the first thing I check!

 

[Sherminiator]

So I did my install yesterday-replaced all the speakers and installed the key200.4 amp. Still waiting on my B&O sub enclosure to show up, then I'll add the Key500 amp and a kicker 8in sub to.

I ran the EQ test this morning and played around with the gain and other settings.

Overall I'm happy with the improvement I got-the mids and highs are worlds better then the stock speakers, but I'm disappointed with the bass out of the kick panel speakers-I thought I would get a bit more bass out of them, but they don't seem to be all that much better then the stock ones. Any ideas on what to trouble shoot with that?

The other thing I noticed is that rear speakers are much louder then stock and seem to put out more bass then what I'm getting up front. I don't have bass blockers on them either, is this normal?

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