Why is it that ...

[Wizard1183]

My Escape is 16 years old and only 120k miles but has been trouble free for the most part. I really can’t complain but I’m willing to b$#%h about it. Worse part is the salt cancer on the rear quarters and inner fenders. Radiation won’t cure that.

Ford seems reliable. My 2014 GMC Sierra? Already spent $10k on it and that includes a tranny replacement. 6l80 is crap. So I should be good to go unless coil pack or engine goes out. I’ll be getting MY22 so I’ll get to see what comes of GMC Jimmy. It’ll be Bronco competitor. However without a manual T there is no competition.

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[BigFootie]

Vehicles for the most part are way more reliable these days than 50 years ago. Yes, it was easier and cheaper to fix them but you were doing it way more often. Warranties are way longer now and you basically never have to go under the hood except for air filters and bug juice.

edit: I’ve own mostly Fords over the past 30 years so maybe they are an exception. My wife favors Honda’s and I’ve never been wrenching under the hood on any of her last three over 30years. Accord, Civic, and HRV.

 

[wvmtneer]

You must be new here. I gotta comment in every post.

Are you @Used2jeep ‘s other account?

 

[Used2jeep]

Are you @Used2jeep ‘s other account?

Nope I'm not related to DB. Though people might consider me one.¯\_(ツ)_/¯

 

[Wizard1183]

Vehicles for the most part are way more reliable these days than 50 years ago. Yes, it was easier and cheaper to fix them but you were doing it way more often. Warranties are way longer now and you basically never have to go under the hood except for air filters and bug juice.

edit: I’ve own mostly Fords over the past 30 years so maybe they are an exception. My wife favors Honda’s and I’ve never been wrenching under the hood on any of her last three over 30years. Accord, Civic, and HRV.

Warranties I wouldn’t exactly say are longer. In the 80s (89 was a warranty war) 3yr 50k mi bumper to bumper. Dropped bumper to bumper to 36k mi with 100k warranty on drivetrain which normally lasts that long. So in essence we should have 100k bumper to bumper. Nah you gotta pay for that and idk if you can get bump to bump 100k? Waste of money for sure

 

[BigFootie]

Warranties I wouldn’t exactly say are longer. In the 80s (89 was a warranty war) 3yr 50k mi bumper to bumper. Dropped bumper to bumper to 36k mi with 100k warranty on drivetrain which normally lasts that long. So in essence we should have 100k bumper to bumper. Nah you gotta pay for that and idk if you can get bump to bump 100k? Waste of money for sure

Sorry, I was thinking longer ago than the late eighties. That seemed like yesterday. I’m talking 60’s and 70’s. 12 months was as good as it got and you didn’t start getting calls after 10 months. No running train insurance wanted to touch a car back then. That in itself speaks to the reliability. People selling extended warranties are not doing it because they are nice and want to help you.

 

[Dave4x4]

Im safe from the boating itch... but my Father-in-law owns and builds airplanes.

LET ME TELL YOU

Boats are bad...Airplanes are much worse.... men... boys... price of toys!

 

[DrewM]

Right there with you. My IS350 is in right now. Left rear wheel bearing is shot, right side is on the way out and the right rear caliper pin is frozen so I get to do a bonus brake job. The wallet is now $1,900 lighter.

On the bright side, in the 9 years and 165,000 miles that I've owned it it hasn't cost me much more than oil, brakes and tires to run.

 

[Rednek]

I'm just hopeing the Shit trac holds together for 6 months,just replaced rear axle seals rotors,calipers pads,park shoes,rh front wheel brg,lh valve cover.good thing i get parts at cost and do my own work as parts was about 7-800 bucks.Then to top it off the rh valve cover started leaking yesterday.

 

[dgorsett]

Must need everything? That’s a job to do yourself maybe? Nice part when it needs it all, other than the ball joints, you are dealing with all new parts, nor rust or bent stuff, just eyeball, install and take it to the alignment shop.

I do 90% of my own work, but it needed ball joints and don't have a press so....one thing led to another and...

 

[Cousin Eddie]

Wheel hub bearing assemblies on the rear of my 2011 Cadillac CTS. Currently on day 2 of trying to pop them out. Prolly going to put it back together, take it to a shop and pay the pro.

Cost for self install: $200, 2 days lost, busted knuckles.
Cost for pro install: $1400

 

[Mattwings]

I do 90% of my own work, but it needed ball joints and don't have a press so....one thing led to another and...

It seems like everything requires a special tool these days too. Last time I did brakes on my Edge, it need a special caliper tool. Advanced loaned me the tool, but it was still a PITA to go get it, figure out how to use it and return it. Saved me about $150 and I probably got better parts for the $ than most shops would charge.

 

[luvmybronco]

I just put a complete AC system in my 1990 F250 for $415.00. I mean everything. Compressor, condenser, receiver/dryer, evaporator, high press line and low pressure line. Search YouTube, shop Amazon, do it yourself, and save some cash

 

[Ramble_Offroad]

Just picked up my Tacoma from the shop for some minor stuff, so I 100% feel ya.

I recently decided to sell my rig and switch it up now. It just needs a new windshield & a proper wash, then I’m going to sell it.

I think my plan to sell my Tacoma could be a symptom of the “Bronco delay anxiety” but whatever. It’s time to switch it up. Don’t worry, the Bronco plan remains unchanged.

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