I don’t know for certain if it’s why they picked that temp but 0*F is what the winter viscosity of your motor oil is spec’d to.They probably just picked -18*C because it was an American engineer and they were shooting for 0*F
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I don’t know for certain if it’s why they picked that temp but 0*F is what the winter viscosity of your motor oil is spec’d to.They probably just picked -18*C because it was an American engineer and they were shooting for 0*F
Oh man!! been to Wainright many times flying the mail up from Richardson.... SO glad I wasn't assigned there, cold as a witches *** in a snow storm!! Richardson was bad enough but at least I didn't need Micky mouse boots and a face mask.To tell you how important this is for cold climates. The Army takes every civilian vehicle going to Ft. Wainright and installs a block heater in them before they go to the Arctic Circle. That way no Army personnel can claim their vehicle froze up at -60F. BTW, every light pole in parking lots in that part of Alaska have outlets on them to plug the heater into.
This was a problem with the GMs in the mid 90s. Engine temp and air temp didn't match, so it would throw a code on some models. On other models, it wouldn't complete the monitors to pass an OBDII test. You would have to keep the vehicle inside the night before to allow them to be an even temperature. There was an update for that one pretty quickly....regarding the -18C point, apparently some people were cutting off the end of the block heater cord (the part with the temperature sensor in it) and replacing it with a simple plug. This lets the block heater work at any temperature, however after a number of hours one of the engine modules looks at the ambient temperature and says, it's not cold enough for the block heater to be on, but my coolant temperature is warmer than the outside temperature, therefore there is a problem with the engine, and turns the engine light on.
If you loop the extension cord over the driver's door mirror you won't forget to unplug it.How good is the connection? Like how strong can you pull on it? Will the plug come out before there is any damage?
I am kind of joking but not entirely. I know at least once I am pulling out of the garage with it still plugged in.
You can pair it with an outlet timer (like what some people use for their Christmas lights).Info from a dealership
Looks like something to consider, but I did find the length of time needed or recommended for these interesting. It states 2-4 hours time is the recommendation. Uh... I won't be interrupting my beauty sleep, to plug this bad boy in, before I go to work. I know it says recommended, so longer probably isn't an issue and just wasting electricity.
Living in MN my entire driving life, I have had one on almost every vehicle I have owned. They are not as important now as it was on the non computer controlled, carbureted vehicles I have owned in the past. The fuel injected engines start in the cold so much more reliable.I've been in the Twin Cities for the past 30 years, never had one. Cars sit outside and in garages. This thread has me thinking about getting one now.
So, it warms up the coolant. Will this help get the cold thick oil flowing?
Tailpipe.Does any one know were you plug it in?
So question. I'm assuming the block heater is in a frost plug, for the water. Does it get that warm that it reaches the oil pan?Living in MN my entire driving life, I have had one on almost every vehicle I have owned. They are not as important now as it was on the non computer controlled, carbureted vehicles I have owned in the past. The fuel injected engines start in the cold so much more reliable.
With the newer cars it is more a benefit of keeping the engine warm and oil flowing easer. A engine block heater will keep the 14 quarts of oil in my 7.3 powerstroke so warmer that it is almost as quiet as a cold summer start.
It is such a cheap option I make sure it is on every new vehicle I purchase. I never use it at home because I park in a garage. It is sure nice to have when away from home.