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j_anderson

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What 4 of the 6 speakers does this amplify? Or am I missing something?
On a high package
You have
dash
Kickpanel
Rear (not full range)
correct?
Trying to understand too. Aren't the dash and kicks wired together? If thats the case. Rethinking what I have installed and possibly going to component kicks and replace the dash 4" with the component tweeters with an adapter. I am just observing and taking notes for now. Waiting to see what the aftermarket comes up with for things like powered subs in factory location, complete system upgrades in one package, etc...

This is very interesting to me though...
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OP
OP
67BroncoG1

67BroncoG1

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What 4 of the 6 speakers does this amplify? Or am I missing something?
On a high package
You have
dash
Kickpanel
Rear (not full range)
correct?
in the non B&O there are only 4 speakers directly wired to the factory head unit and that remains the same with this amp. The front wires go first to the kick panel and then from the kick panel to the dash. What you have is 6 speakers but only 4 channels. Does that make sense?
 

Pressurized

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Anyone with more audio experience know how hard it would be to add another amp to power a sub in the rear?
Their Kit 3 is just the line converter for adding a sub in a plug and play harness...

I'm looking at their Kit 14 to get the amp and the line converter for a sub. Should make it all come together along with some speakers with better detail. Focal, JL Audio, or even Infinity's...

https://plugnplaykits.com/products/...y-audio-harnesses-kits?variant=41130698080446
 

Pressurized

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Trying to understand too. Aren't the dash and kicks wired together? If thats the case. Rethinking what I have installed and possibly going to component kicks and replace the dash 4" with the component tweeters with an adapter. I am just observing and taking notes for now. Waiting to see what the aftermarket comes up with for things like powered subs in factory location, complete system upgrades in one package, etc...

This is very interesting to me though...
The kick panel and the dash speakers are all wired to the front channel on the amplifier. All 4 are driven by just 2 channels... The rears are on their own 2 channels. So a 4 channel amp handles all 6 speakers.
 

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nwGTS

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Their Kit 3 is just the line converter for adding a sub in a plug and play harness...

I'm looking at their Kit 14 to get the amp and the line converter for a sub. Should make it all come together along with some speakers with better detail. Focal, JL Audio, or even Infinity's...

https://plugnplaykits.com/products/...y-audio-harnesses-kits?variant=41130698080446
I think you're linking to the wrong kit but yes Kit 14 is the one you want if you want to get an amp + DSP for the base audio system AND have an RCA out option to a separate sub amp.

The nice thing about this is you can install and use Kit 14 and either install a sub at the same time or run an RCA cable to wherever you'll eventually install a sub amp and do it at a later time incredibly easily.

And the LC2i has the option of a separate sub volume control knob you can install near the dash, plus a power trigger output for the sub amp.


OP, this harness find is fantastic!


This video explains what the LC2i does and how it's used to connect a separate sub amp and sub.


Ford Bronco Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first! image_1dbdca5f-9f92-424d-b15d-1eb4574b5cc8_540x


Ford Bronco Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first! g161ACR1-o_other0
 

Pressurized

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I think you're linking to the wrong kit but yes Kit 14 is the one you want if you want to get an amp + DSP for the base audio system AND have an RCA out option to a separate sub amp.

The nice thing about this is you can install and use Kit 14 and either install a sub at the same time or run an RCA cable to wherever you'll eventually install a sub amp and do it at a later time incredibly easily.

And the LC2i has the option of a separate sub volume control knob you can install near the dash, plus a power trigger output for the sub amp.


OP, this harness find is fantastic!


This video explains what the LC2i does and how it's used to connect a separate sub amp and sub.


Ford Bronco Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first! g161ACR1-o_other0


Ford Bronco Kicker Key Amp 200.4 Install DIY Video - Do this first! g161ACR1-o_other0
I linked to the Kit 3 for the person that was just asking about adding a sub.

But yes, the Kit 14 does both. It's a bit pricey, but for convenience and full functionality, I think I'll pay it. And since I think I will be waiting until there is a Bronco specific fit and finish sub to add, I like the idea that it is all there ready to go. Someone like Stealthbox, Bbox, Atrend or even JL will have a Bronco specific sub before too long. And space is very important tome, so I'll wait to see what they come up with before buying a generic powered sub.

Cheers!!!
 

Puddle Jumper

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I linked to the Kit 3 for the person that was just asking about adding a sub.

But yes, the Kit 14 does both. It's a bit pricey, but for convenience and full functionality, I think I'll pay it. And since I think I will be waiting until there is a Bronco specific fit and finish sub to add, I like the idea that it is all there ready to go. Someone like Stealthbox, Bbox, Atrend or even JL will have a Bronco specific sub before too long. And space is very important tome, so I'll wait to see what they come up with before buying a generic powered sub.

Cheers!!!
Just to confirm. If I have replaced dash, kick panel and rear pods AND have a Kicker Hideaway Powered Subwoofer, I would only need Kit 3, correct?
 

nwGTS

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I linked to the Kit 3 for the person that was just asking about adding a sub.

But yes, the Kit 14 does both. It's a bit pricey, but for convenience and full functionality, I think I'll pay it. And since I think I will be waiting until there is a Bronco specific fit and finish sub to add, I like the idea that it is all there ready to go. Someone like Stealthbox, Bbox, Atrend or even JL will have a Bronco specific sub before too long. And space is very important tome, so I'll wait to see what they come up with before buying a generic powered sub.

Cheers!!!
looks like you and I are doing the same thing. I’ll run this to the OEM sub area all ready to go when someone makes an aftermarket enclosure to fit there.
 

Pressurized

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Just to confirm. If I have replaced dash, kick panel and rear pods AND have a Kicker Hideaway Powered Subwoofer, I would only need Kit 3, correct?
If you want to stay with the factory amp, yes. The Kit 3 would leave your existing amp powering the 6 speakers but give you a line output to run to your powered subwoofer.
 

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TahoeTexan

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For those interested in a harness for the B&O system, I messaged with plugnplaykits and they stated they plan to have some in a couple months.
 

Scotteasymoney

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Nice - I was recently looking at their wiring setup for an AudioControl amp since I am a dealer and can get it at cost.

Great video @67BroncoG1 and thanks for sharing!
Share some love with your fellow bronco
buddy's.lol hook us up 🤣
 

Altitude

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If anyone needs any help at all choosing a kit or has any questions you can message right through the site or give me a call at 203-889-1843 I’m extremely busy and don’t have too much time to check the forums but I’m willing to help anybody who needs help
Group buy? Forum discount code?
 

BadK22

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The harness is set up to power both the front and rear speakers. Kept in mind that the factory wiring only has outputs for 4 speakers. It feeds the rear 2 via 4 wires and then the front 4 wires go to the kick panel speakers and then to up to the dash speakers.

this configuration seems to work well. It allows the Key to apply is DSP magic to all the speakers. I don’t have a way to test it but it appears to open up the single to the rear speakers. I suspect that it is doing some channel summing… analyzing the front signal verse the rear and then filling in the what missing.

I should add that i have some background in audio from a failed consumer product I developed a decade ago. That was where I learned about how powerful DSP is. My engineering team could take a cheap driver and small enclosure and magically make it sound pretty damn good. It’s because of this that I believe Ford has intentionally degraded the should quality of the base system. There is no real reason for it to sound as bad as it does. Yes the cheap paper 4“ speakers are junk but with the magic of DSP you can get resonble sound quality out of them.
So any idea how I can get this to work if I already have a Kicker KEY 200.4 which I want to power a front component set and not the rears?
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