Steering rack bushings cheap options and alternatives. Reviews pending!

[broncorik]

Another source for tie rod boot clamps that are worm gear.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/HC60809.htm?pn=HC-60-809-M130
$2.50 each $3.75 shipping.

I think the channel is under 9mm...so the 9mm clamp may extend beyond the channel and onto the raised lip.

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[V1Rotate]

I think the channel is under 9mm...so the 9mm clamp may extend beyond the channel and onto the raised lip.

Refer to my posted pic somewhere on page 20-21 of a 9mm clamp fitting perfectly within the channel (EDIT: Post 288 on page 20)

 

[broncorik]

I wonder if I have a different boot? I measured mine and it was just over 7 mm from edge to edge of the channel... I'm happy with the McMaster-Carr clamp because it is the exact same range of clamping as our OEM one and is the exact same width and a pack of 10 is about seven bucks...so in my humble opinion there's no reason to not use a clamp as close to OEM as possible if they're available readily.

 

[V1Rotate]

I wonder if I have a different boot? I measured mine and it was just over 7 mm from edge to edge of the channel... I'm happy with the McMaster-Carr clamp because it is the exact same range of clamping as our OEM one and is the exact same width and a pack of 10 is about seven bucks...so in my humble opinion there's no reason to not use a clamp as close to OEM as possible if they're available readily.

Interesting. Can’t wait to see where 7+ pages of clamp over-analysis goes from here then.. #bootgate

 

[Tex]

#bootgate

Team #rubbercementisgoodenough

 

[broncorik]

Interesting. Can’t wait to see where 7+ pages of clamp over-analysis goes from here then.. #bootgate

No over analysis needed...for those who are interested I can confirm that the McMaster-Carr clamps are Oetiker exact replacements. I just received them and here's a comparison:

@flip indicated that Ford doesn't sell the clamps by themselves...they are included only in the bellows kits. It is good to know that we can just have them delivered quickly and that they are so cheap. On a similar topic Note that if you want to use the 3.0 tie rods with your OEM non 3.0 rack the smaller clamp for the bellows stretches large enough so you don't need to replace those.

 

[Free2Roam]

Thank you all for all this info, no complaints here about over analyzing. My RC bushings have shipped. I plan to install icon tie rods with the bushings when I do the suspension upgrades in a couple of weeks.

 

[V1Rotate]

I mean to add also that when I had mine apart to install the bushings I dug around in the end of the rack and grease, etc and didn’t find a single shred of evidence of wear or metal shavings of any kind. Stock bushing looked practically new (8k miles) and we‘ve wheeled it pretty hard/often. Maybe I need to go harder.. kinda disappointed in myself after the industry tried to convince me my rack would melt like nacho cheese at the first hint of 37’s and dirt

 

[broncorik]

I mean to add also that when I had mine apart to install the bushings I dug around in the end of the rack and grease, etc and didn’t find a single shred of evidence of wear or metal shavings of any kind. Stock bushing looked practically new (8k miles) and we‘ve wheeled it pretty hard/often. Maybe I need to go harder.. kinda disappointed in myself after the industry tried to convince me my rack would melt like nacho cheese at the first hint of 37’s and dirt

Same! Even after poking around on Rubicon no apparent rack damage...I was expecting a breakdown based on forum chatter.

 

[da_jokker]

No definite channel in mine but yes a definite slight difference in internal diameter...what appears to be hash marks around the internal circumference from machining on a slightly smaller diameter rise/ridge and then a larger diameter just after that. I am an used to a 90° channel with snap rings...and I think Ford just added a slight rise to keep that original black spacer in place (the three expanding tabs). The white spacer is not a tight fit, and it can't possibly go in any farther...as-is, I was able to push it in without having to use any tools and I could feel it bottom. I should have taken a pic before I installed it...but if anyone else is about to install theirs a pic for the good of the group would be cool to have. There never was a provision specifically for a snap ring...I think the aftermarket bushing folks just realized one could be added using that slight difference in circumference and a specific height spacer to make it a snug fit.

I mean my experience is limited to one install, so 2 sides... But if you were able to just push those in, then I cannot fathom that they're all the way in.

I had a hammer on mine, and when I thought they were in, I had to hammer some more.

Personally, since the snap rings are not that hard to remove with a good set of pliers, I'd remove the snap ring and use a pic to see if you can fit it in the groove.

I mean maybe you got a bushing that had a thicker lip that's covering it up or something.

The other alternative is just to drive it a bit and recheck (One of the reasons why the worm gear clamps are so much better because you can easily remove them, slide the boot off and take a peek).

Steering left and right should actually work the bushings out IF the snap rings are not seated.

 

[da_jokker]

I think the channel is under 9mm...so the 9mm clamp may extend beyond the channel and onto the raised lip.

The original clamps are 7mm, but the channel is just slightly larger. These 9mm cllamps are only 0.079" wider.... Best it is going to get If you want to clamp it you can take on and off easily (For example to inspect)

 

[da_jokker]

Another source for tie rod boot clamps that are worm gear.
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/HC60809.htm?pn=HC-60-809-M130
$2.50 each $3.75 shipping.

Nice find! I'm ordering mine from there.

 

[broncorik]

I mean my experience is limited to one install, so 2 sides... But if you were able to just push those in, then I cannot fathom that they're all the way in.

I had a hammer on mine, and when I thought they were in, I had to hammer some more.

Personally, since the snap rings are not that hard to remove with a good set of pliers, I'd remove the snap ring and use a pic to see if you can fit it in the groove.

I mean maybe you got a bushing that had a thicker lip that's covering it up or something.

The other alternative is just to drive it a bit and recheck (One of the reasons why the worm gear clamps are so much better because you can easily remove them, slide the boot off and take a peek).

Steering left and right should actually work the bushings out IF the snap rings are not seated.

I checked and my bushing is indeed all the way in (I pulled the snap ring out and checked and when I put the snap ring back in and pushed it gently from all around the circumference it popped into place without having to reposition the bushing) and due to the circumference of the raised area of the housing, the bushing has to be smaller OD than the ID of the housing after that ridge...so the bushing has some side to side play and should not need to be driven in. The BB bushing, on the other hand, has an o-ring...so it binds up when the bushing is getting past the ridge...and then after that it can seat. Even with the snap ring in place on mine, I can rotate the RC bushing slightly (which is indicative that it is not an interference fit past that ridge). Because of the fact that no bushing that is the same OD as the housing beyond the ridge (otherwise it wouldn't make it past it), there will always be some play. I believe BB went with the o-ring as an effort to center the bushing after it is driven in. I thought it was odd in their video that they said it's normal for pieces of the o-ring to come off, but now after having observed the shape of the ridge and the difference in ID and OD, it makes sense...it is very unlikely to drive the BB bushing past that ridge without having some collateral o-ring damage. If anyone needs to use a hammer to drive in the RC bushing it may be due to the fit of the d-shaped section.

 

[Tex]

It might be helpful for someone who's certain that their bushings are installed properly to do a measurement with a depth gauge to either the snap ring or the bushing from the edge of the housing. That way other people could reference that when they're installing their own bushings and verify.

 

[bodean]

Would any of you fine folks who’ve ordered from McMaster want to sell and ship a few to Canada?

At $21 USD for shipping alone it’s hard to justify.

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