Towing capacity

2Jeeps&PatriotX1

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Didn't Jeep destroy their GC after taking across the Rubicon? I've watched vids of a crown vic running Moab trails.
The GC and new Discovery are unibody suv's, fairly capable, on par with my old Cayenne, but newer traction control.
None of the 3 you mentioned come with front lockers. The 4runner would be closer to the G, once you add a front locker.
All would require significant mods to accommodate 35's without breaking some part of the drive train.
Really, for new there is only the Wrangler Rubicon. It's easy to add 35's and 2.5" lift. The new G will handle 35's, but the aftermarket support for off road parts is limited. The previous solid axle G is easier. There's also the G 4x42 with 37's. The Bronco Warthog spy shots remind me of those. But I'm talking new vehicles here...
I'm hoping the Bronco will come close to the Wrangler. Ford offering 35's makes me hopeful, but I think it still needs another 2.5" lift over the Sasquatch package.

If I have to significantly modify a new truck to handle 35's and triple lockers, or if/when the Bronco doesn't live up to my expectations, I'm going to build a nice restomod IH Scout (or similar) with LS V8, leather interior, and stout drivetrain. Why deal with all the computers and regulations of a new car if you're going replace all the parts with heavy duty ones anyway?
I visit moderate to difficult trails in my heavily modified LJ, wife’s trailhawk and my f150 here in CO, UT, AZ areas. I can count on 1 hand how many times Ive needed my rear locker on the F150 and never needed a front locker in the GC. And both vehicles see the same trails that 98% of Broncos will see in those states. For example- both vehicles have ran every trail in Ouray/Telluride thrown at them without issue.

As someone who has had 33s and 35s, I can with certainty say that 33s with the proper under carriage clearance (aka tummy tuck on jeeps) can go 99% of the same places as a vehicle with 35s can.

just like my offroad camper w/ 33” MT can crawl over anything and anywhere (due to its articulating hitch, good approach/departure angle and suspension) that the bronco, trailhawk or truck can go (only exception are hairpin turns like on BB Pass in Telluride).

the crown vic you’re referring (hells revenge?)

Wife’s 4dr BL will be non-squatch. Why? Because it’ll be able to go 99% of the same trails as those with 35s.
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Merc4x4

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I visit moderate to difficult trails in my heavily modified LJ, wife’s trailhawk and my f150 here in CO, UT, AZ areas. I can count on 1 hand how many times Ive needed my rear locker on the F150 and never needed a front locker in the GC. And both vehicles see the same trails that 98% of Broncos will see in those states. For example- both vehicles have ran every trail in Ouray/Telluride thrown at them without issue.

As someone who has had 33s and 35s, I can with certainty say that 33s with the proper under carriage clearance (aka tummy tuck on jeeps) can go 99% of the same places as a vehicle with 35s can.

just like my offroad camper w/ 33” MT can crawl over anything and anywhere (due to its articulating hitch, good approach/departure angle and suspension) that the bronco, trailhawk or truck can go (only exception are hairpin turns like on BB Pass in Telluride).

the crown vic you’re referring (hells revenge?)

Wife’s 4dr BL will be non-squatch. Why? Because it’ll be able to go 99% of the same trails as those with 35s.
So we agree, bigger tires, more lift, heavier duty axles / drivetrain make for a more capable off road rig.
Wrangler Rubicon, Merc G, and (hopefully) Bronco Sasquatch/Badlands are engineered from the factory to handle the load from 35" tires.

Here's an obstacle I couldn't drive past in my G with 34" tires and 40mm (1.6") spring spacers. Wranglers with 35's and 2.5" lift were able to get past. There is no bypass, so I and another Wrangler with 33's (no front locker) back-tracked and met up with the group on the other side. No big deal, but a real world example where I (not some arbitrary 98%) got to the limit of the truck.

And yes, some of us will not be afraid to scratch and dent our brand new Bronco's to find their limits.

I'm glad your SUV works for the trails you want to drive. The GC Trailhawks are very nice.

BTW, this is a road in Vermont. Think it'll be part of the Brondo Off-Roadeo? :)

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There was an excellent 20 page thread on this topic floating around today. Do a search on trailers and might come up.
I was researching a bit yesterday and came up with a TAB 320 because it had bathroom, kitchen, bed, heat, solar and was good offhand. It's a teardrop design. Some folks are big on the overland rigs too. Just depends on your needs.

Oh, it weighs 1900lbs so well within towing capacity Ford is currently offering.
Thanks for your response. I too was eyeing the Tab 320 but wanted to narrow it down to three before I headed out to look. I spoke to my sales guy today and he said as long as it is less than 3500 (the lower the better) I should be ok. He also mentioned it (the bronco) will have a class III hitch, so to pay attention to the tongue weight, too.
 

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Thanks for your response. I too was eyeing the Tab 320 but wanted to narrow it down to three before I headed out to look. I spoke to my sales guy today and he said as long as it is less than 3500 (the lower the better) I should be ok. He also mentioned it (the bronco) will have a class III hitch, so to pay attention to the tongue weight, too.
Class II, so yes limited to 350lbs tongue weight.
 

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Class II, so yes limited to 350lbs tongue weight.
Hi and thanks for your response. So the email I received from my sales guy yesterday was that I will have a class III, not a class II. Have you heard otherwise?
 

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Hi and thanks for your response. So the email I received from my sales guy yesterday was that I will have a class III, not a class II. Have you heard otherwise?
Unless they are putting a non-Bronco hitch at your dealership, you'll be getting a class II
 

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Unless they are putting a non-Bronco hitch at your dealership, you'll be getting a class II
The confusion comes with the receiver size. A class II hitch normally has a 1 1/4 inch receiver and usually only the 4 pin connector. The Bronco factory hitch has a 2 inch receiver and both the 4 and 7 pin connectors. The Bronco also has trailer sway control standard.
 

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The confusion comes with the receiver size. A class II hitch normally has a 1 1/4 inch receiver and usually only the 4 pin connector. The Bronco factory hitch has a 2 inch receiver and both the 4 and 7 pin connectors. The Bronco also has trailer sway control standard.
I believe you are correct on all points, but for those curious on a "towing capacity" thread, just because it is a larger than standard class II hitch, doesn't mean it's rated to tow more, still class II.
 

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Hi and thanks for your response. So the email I received from my sales guy yesterday was that I will have a class III, not a class II. Have you heard otherwise?
Unless they are putting a non-Bronco hitch at your dealership, you'll be getting a class II
What's been confusing some people is that it's still a 2" receiver... which some think makes it a Class III...

But it is *absolutely* a Class II

Tow Ratings.png
 

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Not to beat a dead....but.
I am trying to decide between 2.7 sas or 2.7 no sas.
I have a 22 foot travel trailer that weighs 3200#. My Jeep pulls it "ok". Hoping the added torque and HP will make the difference. Do you all think the added weight of the 35s but the change to 4.70 gears will be better or 4.46 with 33s be better? I just want to tow Midwest roads and stay lower than 3000rpm.
 

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What's been confusing some people is that it's still a 2" receiver... which some think makes it a Class III...

But it is *absolutely* a Class II

Tow Ratings.png
Agreed. But I think they put a Class II hitch on it because the tow rating is Class II not that the tow rating is Class II because it has a Class II hitch. There is nothing wrong with the factory hitch, It attaches to a cross member that is welded to the same frame that a Class III receiver will bolt to. The bolts that hold the factory receiver hold tongue weight in shear, tow weight is held in tension on the cross member. After market hitches hold tongue weight in tension and tow weight in shear. I might argue that the factory hitch set up is actually superior.

It is something besides the hitch that is limiting capacity.
 

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Agreed. But I think they put a Class II hitch on it because the tow rating is Class II not that the tow rating is Class II because it has a Class II hitch. There is nothing wrong with the factory hitch, It attaches to a cross member that is welded to the same frame that a Class III receiver will bolt to. The bolts that hold the factory receiver hold tongue weight in shear, tow weight is held in tension on the cross member. After market hitches hold tongue weight in tension and tow weight in shear. I might argue that the factory hitch set up is actually superior.

It is something besides the hitch that is limiting capacity.
Ford's own GCWR numbers show a TWR higher than 3500lbs for most builds. That's all by their own testing. The Class II receiver definitely pulls down the tow cap of the lower trims as currently tested.
 

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I was so glad to see this post today as I am looking for a travel trailer in the very near future and want to be able to use my bronco to tow it as well. I know the towing capacity says 3500, but being a newbie, I was trying to find a vehicle comparable because there also appears to be a bunch of different weights I have to take into consideration. So I searched for travel trailers that work well with wranglers because that seemed to be the most comparable and I found two that I like. I was hoping to get some feedback from anyone who has knowledge about trailers and would even be open to suggestions. Thanks in advance!

https://www.lancecamper.com/travel-trailers/1475/

https://www.kz-rv.com/products/sportsmen-classic-travel-trailers/180BH.html
My daughters family has the 181BH. It's nice if you have small kids. I like more room and bigger beds so I have a KZ Escape 181RD and it is great. 3200# and I don't put too much in it to keep below 3500#. My JKU 35" tires and 4.70 gears pulls it ok except the engine runs out of steam. I am hoping 2.7/4.70 BL Squatch will be much happier.
 

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So I found this video on what really matters the most when determining what you can legally and safely tow. It appears that payload is the most important number according to this guy. It makes total sense when you do the math. What do you guys think? BTW, sorry if I state the obvious, I am new to all of this so I am learning as I go :)
 

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So I found this video on what really matters the most when determining what you can legally and safely tow. It appears that payload is the most important number according to this guy. It makes total sense when you do the math. What do you guys think? BTW, sorry if I state the obvious, I am new to all of this so I am learning as I go :)
22 minutes is TL;DW. In general your allowable payload is constrained by GCWR at higher trailer weights (approaching tow cap), and GVWR at lower trailer weights. Or conversely, your allowable trailer weight is constrained by GCWR at lower payloads and GVWR at higher payloads. Whichever way you want to look at it depends on which is your independent variable and which is your dependent variable, although IRL they are often both in a grey area between unless you're in a 3/4 ton or 1 ton.

Also thank you for your service. You are a true hero.
 
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