Broox's DIY 2-Door Seat Delete + Raptor Lined Cargo Platform

[broox]

The rear bench seat of my Jeep spent most of it's life in a Christmas tree storage bag in my basement... and I had a similar plan once I traded the Jeep in for the Bronco. But I was pretty bummed to learn that it was a lot more work to add/remove the rear Bronco seats (bolts, sensors, and tools? wtf!)... so, I just went scorched earth and ripped everything out, along with the seatbelts.

With the rear seats out of the bronco, the floor is pretty ugly, with random bolts, holes, and cuts in the floor liner. It was gonna be pretty annoying to use as a "truck bed" this way, so I did what many others have done, and started researching/designing a flat "bed."

Goose Gear's system looks nice but is frankly overpriced. I didn't need the modularity that they offered, and didn't really like that the tool storage bin required more tools to open. I do like their fit and finish though, so I decided to build something similar, that fit my needs.

Materials:

• Cabinet grade plywood (given to me by a trim carpenter buddy )
• double offset piano hinges
• 2 - M12-1.75 x 60mm allen bolts
• 8 - M8-1.25 x 40mm allen bolts
• 4 - M8-1.25 x 20mm threaded inserts
• 6 pocket screws
• wood glue
• black primer
• raptor bed liner kit

And with that, I scribed everything out, made a cardboard template, and got to work. Here are the photos of my build...

I'm super happy with how it turned out, but like any project, I learned a couple things that I might do differently if I tackled again.

1. I wish I would've waited to drill the finger hole in the hatch. I'm thinking about putting a keyed latch on the door so that the storage is actually secured while the top's off. I won't need the finger hole once I do that.
2. I wish I would've masked the interior plastic with blue tape. Lightly dragging a piece of wood along the side to scribe my template was enough to scratch the plastic. I also got a few scuffs from taking the platform in/out during the build process. Cheap-ass Ford plastic...
   Ah well, it's a truck and a toy. These won't be the last blemishes. But uh, anyone have tips on how to make these scratches a bit less noticeable?
3. I wish I had a bit more practice with spraying bedliner. This was my first time and I got a bit of tiger striping on the big piece. It's barely noticeable once installed, and I think it'll soften even more in time... but it still bugs me.

That said, I've got a couple small modifications planned already. I'll post updates here once I tackle em.

1. I added a rubber mat to the top

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[Arokcrwlr]

Nice work!

 

[My Friend Flicka]

Looks great!

 

[Dog]

Sell me one!

 

[Beach_Bum]

Looks great. You can search in the interior modifications sub-forum for paint to cover the scratched plastic. It's been awhile since it was posted. Found the thread that mentions the product used to paint the interior plastic panels. I recall that it was a close match and masked the scratches.

 

[Gtrekker]

Nicely done!!! Plus bed liner (sprayed), perfect... That's my go to spray for everything.

Team 2 Door = Purpose Built and Bad Ass

 

[Ibuprofen3293]

My man! Would you be willing to post some of your overall dimensions, and maybe a link to the hinges?

The bedliner is honestly an awesome idea. I’m not thrilled with the indoor/outdoor carpet that seems to be the go-to for platforms. Was considering trying to find some robust vinyl that sort of matches the washout floor, but that liner looks great.

I’m considering spacing my platform up 6” or so so for some hidden topless storage. (Or my latest thought is to get a tonneau cover made to attach to the MIC top bolt holes).

Anyone have a reason why I couldn’t use OSB or something on the cheaper end (vs nice plywood)?

 

[Lowcountry Bronco]

Looks great, don't know if you've seen these side protectors from Mabett, might help protect the sides some:

https://www.amazon.com/Mabett-Sidew...ronco+mabett+2+doo,automotive,217&sr=1-4&th=1

 

[Seahund]

The rear bench seat of my Jeep spent most of it's life in a Christmas tree storage bag in my basement... and I had a similar plan once I traded the Jeep in for the Bronco. But I was pretty bummed to learn that it was a lot more work to add/remove the rear Bronco seats (bolts, sensors, and tools? wtf!)... so, I just went scorched earth and ripped everything out, along with the seatbelts.

With the rear seats out of the bronco, the floor is pretty ugly, with random bolts, holes, and cuts in the floor liner. It was gonna be pretty annoying to use as a "truck bed" this way, so I did what many others have done, and started researching/designing a flat "bed."

Goose Gear's system looks nice but is frankly overpriced. I didn't need the modularity that they offered, and didn't really like that the tool storage bin required more tools to open. I do like their fit and finish though, so I decided to build something similar, that fit my needs.

Materials:

• Cabinet grade alder (given to me by a trim carpenter buddy )
• double offset piano hinges
• 2 - M12-1.75 bolts
• 8 - M8-1.25 bolts
• 4 - M8-1.25 threaded inserts
• black primer
• raptor bed liner kit

And with that, I scribed everything out, made a cardboard template, and got to work. Here are the photos of my build...

I'm super happy with how it turned out, but like any project, I learned a couple things that I might do differently if I tackled again.

1. I wish I would've waited to drill the finger hole in the hatch. I'm thinking about putting a keyed latch on the door so that the storage is actually secured while the top's off. I won't need the finger hole once I do that.
2. I wish I would've masked the interior plastic with blue tape. Lightly dragging a piece of wood along the side to scribe my template was enough to scratch the plastic. I also got a few scuffs from taking the platform in/out during the build process. Cheap-ass Ford plastic...
   Ah well, it's a truck and a toy. These won't be the last blemishes. But uh, anyone have tips on how to make these scratches a bit less noticeable?
3. I wish I had a bit more practice with spraying bedliner. This was my first time and I got a bit of tiger striping on the big piece. It's barely noticeable once installed, and I think it'll soften even more in time... but it still bugs me.

That said, I've got a couple small modifications planned already. I'll post updates here once I tackle em.

My thoughts and plans to a T. 'Clapping '

 

[subg]

Nice work.

If I recall, 72 inches on the angle? You can sleep in there if you're under that.

 

[RC Bronco]

Very well done!!

 

[KRAKEN]

Looks fantastic. Thanks for sharing so we can copy your excellent work. Update us when you install the lock, that's a great idea.

I had not seen those Mabett side protective covers... interesting option other than lower molle panels.

 

[Imaginary Friend]

Nice!

You're giving me ideas for my JL, which lost its rear seat the day I got it home.

 

[broox]

My man! Would you be willing to post some of your overall dimensions, and maybe a link to the hinges?

I started with a 4'x8' sheet of plywood (which was ~1/2" strong on both sides), cut it to 48.5" x 53" and then scribed/cut from there.

The base is roughly 48.5" from front to back in the center, where the little bump out is on the hatch. You'll need roughly this length if you want supports that sit in the footwells. You could go a bit shorter if you angle the footwell supports (which might be nice to give you the ability to recline the seat more), but I made mine 90º.

The width of the base ranges from 42-1/8" at the very back to 52-1/8" at the front. Mine got wider and then gradually got narrower to where the V notch is in the interior side panels... then it got wider again before flaring out around the cupholders. Don't trust my measurements, and scribe it for a consistent fit!

The hatch door is roughly 26.5" wide and 17" deep on center of the cuts, and the footwell supports are 9" x 17".

I got the M8 threaded inserts (for the supports) and M12 bolts (which thread into the old seatbelt holes) from McMaster-Carr, the other M8 bolts from my local Ace Hardware, and the double offset hinges (2 of them) from Amazon: https://a.co/d/eG2rBfQ

I went with these hinges because they're built for boat hatches and are intended to sit flush with the rest of the deck.

Anyone have a reason why I couldn’t use OSB or something on the cheaper end (vs nice plywood)?

You could use OSB but I don't think it finishes as nice and will have gnarlier edges. I was after a clean finish with nicely routed edges. MDF and Particle board would work but will be less rigid and more prone to water/moisture damage unless you really make sure to coat all sides and add more support underneath.

 

[broox]

Nice work.

If I recall, 72 inches on the angle? You can sleep in there if you're under that.

I'm 5'11" and am able to lay down at an angle with the seat pushed all the way forward! Not something I want to do on the regular, but would definitely work for short trips.

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