Broox's DIY 2-Door Seat Delete + Raptor Lined Cargo Platform

[broox]

How much for the carboard template?

haha. i'm located in des moines, iowa if you wanna come pick it up.

scribing it is pretty straight forward though! i just added a point to a piece of scrap wood, measured the variance of the cargo walls (~6"), drilled a hole for the pencil to poke through that far away from the tip, and drug it along the side of the truck while keeping the cardboard still and the scribe as close to 90º as possible. if you align the cardboard so the ribs are perpendicular to the side of the bronco, you can use the ribs as a guide to make sure you're staying roughly 90º.

try to use a fairly rigid piece of cardboard and make sure to tape up the sides or else you'll scratch em like i did.

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[Gargantua]

Looks great, did you
Leave the seat belt latch installed for the airbag or do a bypass?

 

[2023bronco]

Nice work. Don't see why you couldn't throw another coat of bedliner on it if the tiger striping bugs you.

 

[broox]

Did you leave the seat belt latch installed for the airbag or do a bypass?

I removed the existing buckles and tucked em under the floor liner, like the goose gear instructions call for.

I also tucked the rear seatbelts into the panels by the roll bars and stuck a couple short M10x1.5 Allen bolts into the holes where the shoulder strap mounts.

 

[Aman]

I removed the existing buckles and tucked em under the floor liner, like the goose gear instructions call for.

I also tucked the rear seatbelts into the panels by the roll bars and stuck a couple short M10x1.5 Allen bolts into the holes where the shoulder strap mounts.

Looks awesome...great work!

If you are so inclined, it is easy to remove the seatbelt reels. Then simply insert a 2.4 Ohm resistor into each connector to trick the system into believing they are still there.

 

[Ibuprofen3293]

If you are so inclined, it is easy to remove the seatbelt reels. Then simply insert a 2.4 Ohm resistor into each connector to trick the system into believing they are still there.

These 2 ohm ones also work well and cost 10 cents each.

 

[Prest33]

This is super well done! I am going to tackle this next week! Was there any part of the process that you had a head scratching moment where something didnt make sense at first and could happen to someone else?

 

[broox]

Was there any part of the process that you had a head scratching moment where something didnt make sense at first and could happen to someone else?

I think the only head scratching was figuring out exactly how I wanted it to be. Shape/placement of the door, what hinges to use, where to secure it, whether I wanted to wrap in vinyl/paint/bedline, etc. Otherwise, it's really just a lot of scribing, measuring (and re-measuring), and routing (I cut mine out with a 1/4" router bit and put 1/8 roundover on everything).

To get the bolt holes lined up, I threaded the bolts that I wanted to use as attachment points partially (mostly) into their holes, laid the plywood on top, and just hit the plywood with a rubber mallet above each spot. This made it so that I had little impressions in the bottom of the plywood exactly where each bolt was and let me drill accurate holes without trusting measurements. This worked out great and might save you some time as well.

 

[broox]

I just added a 1/4" rubber mat to the top for more protection, grip, and because it'll just be easy to pull out and hose off when it gets dirty. I picked this up at Fleet Farm, but they also have it at Tractor Supply. It has a pretty gnarly smell, but I left it out in the sun for a couple weeks while periodically washing it and it's largely dissipated.

The mat is just laying on top of the platform for now, but I need to figure out a way to secure it in place. Going topless on the highway causes the wind to hit the tailgate and blow the back of it around a bit. I'm deciding between velcro, using more of those M8 threaded inserts+allen screws, or figuring out some way of using magnets...

Threaded inserts + screws would allow me to also put D-Rings in the corners which might be handy... but then it requires tools to add/remove.

Either way, it has received a stamp of approval from our pup, Durby.

 

[Roger123]

These 2 ohm ones also work well and cost 10 cents each.

Have you verified this to work? I've contemplated trying something but didn't want to mess with any modules if I guessed wrong on the resistance.

 

[Wickedbronco]

Durby!!!

 

[MikeOBronco]

Awesome job on your platform! I just pulled the seats from my new 2 Dr this AM. I'm deciding between the Goose Gear solution and the "Broox Gear" setup

 

[4dtrkman]

The rear bench seat of my Jeep spent most of it's life in a Christmas tree storage bag in my basement... and I had a similar plan once I traded the Jeep in for the Bronco. But I was pretty bummed to learn that it was a lot more work to add/remove the rear Bronco seats (bolts, sensors, and tools? wtf!)... so, I just went scorched earth and ripped everything out, along with the seatbelts.

With the rear seats out of the bronco, the floor is pretty ugly, with random bolts, holes, and cuts in the floor liner. It was gonna be pretty annoying to use as a "truck bed" this way, so I did what many others have done, and started researching/designing a flat "bed."

Goose Gear's system looks nice but is frankly overpriced. I didn't need the modularity that they offered, and didn't really like that the tool storage bin required more tools to open. I do like their fit and finish though, so I decided to build something similar, that fit my needs.

Materials:

• Cabinet grade plywood (given to me by a trim carpenter buddy )
• double offset piano hinges
• 2 - M12-1.75 x 60mm allen bolts
• 8 - M8-1.25 x 40mm allen bolts
• 4 - M8-1.25 x 20mm threaded inserts
• 6 pocket screws
• wood glue
• black primer
• raptor bed liner kit

And with that, I scribed everything out, made a cardboard template, and got to work. Here are the photos of my build...

I'm super happy with how it turned out, but like any project, I learned a couple things that I might do differently if I tackled again.

1. I wish I would've waited to drill the finger hole in the hatch. I'm thinking about putting a keyed latch on the door so that the storage is actually secured while the top's off. I won't need the finger hole once I do that.
2. I wish I would've masked the interior plastic with blue tape. Lightly dragging a piece of wood along the side to scribe my template was enough to scratch the plastic. I also got a few scuffs from taking the platform in/out during the build process. Cheap-ass Ford plastic...
   Ah well, it's a truck and a toy. These won't be the last blemishes. But uh, anyone have tips on how to make these scratches a bit less noticeable?
3. I wish I had a bit more practice with spraying bedliner. This was my first time and I got a bit of tiger striping on the big piece. It's barely noticeable once installed, and I think it'll soften even more in time... but it still bugs me.

That said, I've got a couple small modifications planned already. I'll post updates here once I tackle em.

1. I added a rubber mat to the top

Looks like a great job. I have the Ridgeback from Diabolical in my 2 door and need to put a floor in. I have the slides that came with it but haven’t put in a platform yet. My question for you is I will be using 7/8 Plywood because it will actually be suspended off the floor a little bit. Do you think those hinges you used will work ? Here’s a pick of what I’m working with since I took the pics I have attached the brackets to the slides that the platform will mount to. It will need to be 2 pieces so I can access to tool storage as well.

 

[BigSkyBronco]

@broox You, sir, are an inspiration. I am ready to undertake this project and am wondering what thickness your plywood is. Appears to be 3/8?

 

[broox]

@broox You, sir, are an inspiration. I am ready to undertake this project and am wondering what thickness your plywood is. Appears to be 3/8?

3/4”

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