Inspected and very glad you mentioned this - I'm going to edit my writeup as this absolutely affected the critical T-joint. Mine actually had quite a bit of adjustability so I must have been slammed outboard and I moved it inboard as much as it would go.
Very much so.
Awesome write up! Thanks for the information. It's sad that we pay tens of thousands of dollars for a vehicle and have to do these common sense repairs when we should all get what we paid for, a premium vehicle for a premium price. But oh well, everyone have a great day!Like many, I plan to use my long-awaited Bronco for long road trips.
Like slightly fewer, I'm a bit of an NVH snob. I've had the dash off my Mustang probably 10 times searching for rattles and lining everything with felt and double-sided tape before it was silenced to my liking.
My Bronco didn't have a single rattle (thank you interior panel engineers!) but it did have a significant amount of wind noise entering the cabin from the top. "Entering" is the keyword here as it sounded like little windows were cracked open all around the vehicle.
After this exercise, wind noise was greatly reduced and sounds like it's staying outside of the cabin. I didn't use a proper sound meter, but a phone app recorded a consistent and measurable improvement at highway speed.
Haven't had issues at the car wash, though I only use the handheld pressure-washer style. Rain and snow are no issues.
Performed on a 2023 Bronco, 4-Door, Wildtrak, Sasquatch, MIC Hard Top.
Most of this technique is based on a previous write-up and I recommend reading that as well:
orion1224
MIC Noise Reduction Guide - Wind Sound - aka More (or Less) Cowbell
Part Numbers from McMaster-Carr
Approx. cost --> $130 in materials + $50 in shipping and taxes --> Total $180
- 93085K577 (5/8"w x 5/8"h 20ft)
- 93085K556 (1/2"w x 1/2"h 10ft)
- 93085K52 (3/8"w x 7/16"h 10ft)
- 93085K525 (5/8"w x 3/8"h 10ft)
- 4463K163 (3/4" ID x 3/4" wall 6ft, Qty 2)
These parts cost ~3x as much as the overseas version, but when I bought those and opened the bag it off-gassed pretty bad and didn't want that in the cabin. I also found those to be a bit thin to maintain a good seal long term.
These materials have thicker foam but are still compliant, and are Made in USA so I trust they will last longer through the elements. After re-doing strips multiple times, I found these are the sizes that seal well while keeping panels flush without excessive force to close. It takes a bit more finagling to get the front panels in their place, but once they're in you're good!
I've laid things up differently, based on a combination of trial/error and intuition. I believe the "zipper" style on the front panel-to-windshield is more effective.
The shipping for the "pool noodle" is what drives much of the cost... you can use the one that's available at your home improvement store, but those are split and a bit small. The one listed above is thicker wall, 1/4" larger OD, and not split. This seals better and should hold its shape longer.
My top also came with the front weather stripping not properly attached. The double-sided patch was completely dry on one side, the underside strip was torn, and the adhesive under the strip was uncured. These pictures/instructions are at the end. It may not affect everyone, but it absolutely contributed to my wind noise as the T-joint was not getting a good seal. Anyone taking their front panels off should check this.
And lastly - this is a good opportunity to clean! Not just with acetone/alcohol before you bond, but the interior of the rear (trunk) top came COVERED in a layer of dark gray dust. Potentially MIC top manufacturing dust? Be sure to remove this before sticking anything to it, and probably for health reasons...
Fine print: I'm only responsible to damage to my own vehicle, not yours. Any and all modifications performed to your vehicle are at your own risk.
Now onto the fun part!
Install Notes
All weather stripping should be applied to the "angled" section of the top, not the horizontal section. The previous write-up has additional images of this. I haven't tried, but many appeared to struggle with adhesion to this section.
And remember to clean all your adhesion spots before pressing the strips on!
Front Panel
3 different types of stripping.
I wanted to cover as much length as possible so I went over rubber already laid down.
However, I didn't cover or move the soft fabric or the drain filter material. I gave my best judgement to keep channels clear.
The rear stripping is visible inside the cabin, but unless you have a flashlight looking up, you tend not to see anything. Looks good regardless.
Mid Panel
Just one strip along the rear curved section.
As before, only visible if you're looking for it. Spend an extra couple minutes laying it down and it will look nice.
I'm biased, but I think it actually looks nicer with the seal
Rear Panel
2 types of stripping.
Follow the plastic panel with the smaller stripping first. I added a small strip at the top. I only recommend one strip so water doesn't get trapped.
Recommend keeping the drain-filter clear (mesh sponge in front and above the small strips, hiding inside factory stripping).
I cut the larger pieces angled so it mates up nice. Hard to picture but you can see a very mild "crush" on the stripping when installed.
Still not as quiet as I would ideally like, but it's a significant improvement from how it arrived.
The "Gutter"
This insulation is 1/4" larger OD, thicker wall, and unslit when compared to a typical home improvement store version. This should hold its shape better and form a better seal over time.
Even though it's larger, it's still easily pushed through the gap between the chassis and installed rear panel.
No fitment issues putting on roof panels or sitting flush.
Can leave it at the full 6' but you might see it in the upper corners when the trunk is open. Cut a bit off and it will tuck behind the cage out-of-sight.
Front Outboard Latch Bracket
(Edit) Thanks to @SROC3 for mentioning this in the comments.
With the front panels removed, the outboard latch bracket bolts are accessible.
These have small but reasonable adjustment inboard and outboard. My driver side one was slammed outboard and I moved them inboard.
Before-and-after show that the front T-joint gets some better compression with the bracket shifted inboard.
Front Weather Stripping Adhesion
This was an issue when I received my Bronco.
The front leading edge of the weather stripping was misaligned causing wind noise near the T-joint. Upon inspection I found out the stripping wasn't placed or bonded correctly.
I don't know if the "sticky gunk" is per-spec, but the other adhesive strips were clearly not right.
Pealed off what was left of the sticker adhesives, cleaned it off (acetone does NOT work on the gunk, but rubbing alcohol did), lightly scuffed with sandpaper, cleaned again, and bonded it back together with a minimal layer of JB-Weld.
Get your clamps ready...
Good luck and hope this helps others!
thank you for this. I'll be picking mine up soon and I'm getting geared up for the improvements that need to be made.Like many, I plan to use my long-awaited Bronco for long road trips.
Like slightly fewer, I'm a bit of an NVH snob. I've had the dash off my Mustang probably 10 times searching for rattles and lining everything with felt and double-sided tape before it was silenced to my liking.
My Bronco didn't have a single rattle (thank you interior panel engineers!) but it did have a significant amount of wind noise entering the cabin from the top. "Entering" is the keyword here as it sounded like little windows were cracked open all around the vehicle.
After this exercise, wind noise was greatly reduced and sounds like it's staying outside of the cabin. I didn't use a proper sound meter, but a phone app recorded a consistent and measurable improvement at highway speed.
Haven't had issues at the car wash, though I only use the handheld pressure-washer style. Rain and snow are no issues.
Performed on a 2023 Bronco, 4-Door, Wildtrak, Sasquatch, MIC Hard Top.
Most of this technique is based on a previous write-up and I recommend reading that as well:
orion1224
MIC Noise Reduction Guide - Wind Sound - aka More (or Less) Cowbell
Part Numbers from McMaster-Carr
Approx. cost --> $130 in materials + $50 in shipping and taxes --> Total $180
- 93085K577 (5/8"w x 5/8"h 20ft)
- 93085K556 (1/2"w x 1/2"h 10ft)
- 93085K52 (3/8"w x 7/16"h 10ft)
- 93085K525 (5/8"w x 3/8"h 10ft)
- 4463K163 (3/4" ID x 3/4" wall 6ft, Qty 2)
These parts cost ~3x as much as the overseas version, but when I bought those and opened the bag it off-gassed pretty bad and didn't want that in the cabin. I also found those to be a bit thin to maintain a good seal long term.
These materials have thicker foam but are still compliant, and are Made in USA so I trust they will last longer through the elements. After re-doing strips multiple times, I found these are the sizes that seal well while keeping panels flush without excessive force to close. It takes a bit more finagling to get the front panels in their place, but once they're in you're good!
I've laid things up differently, based on a combination of trial/error and intuition. I believe the "zipper" style on the front panel-to-windshield is more effective.
The shipping for the "pool noodle" is what drives much of the cost... you can use the one that's available at your home improvement store, but those are split and a bit small. The one listed above is thicker wall, 1/4" larger OD, and not split. This seals better and should hold its shape longer.
My top also came with the front weather stripping not properly attached. The double-sided patch was completely dry on one side, the underside strip was torn, and the adhesive under the strip was uncured. These pictures/instructions are at the end. It may not affect everyone, but it absolutely contributed to my wind noise as the T-joint was not getting a good seal. Anyone taking their front panels off should check this.
And lastly - this is a good opportunity to clean! Not just with acetone/alcohol before you bond, but the interior of the rear (trunk) top came COVERED in a layer of dark gray dust. Potentially MIC top manufacturing dust? Be sure to remove this before sticking anything to it, and probably for health reasons...
Fine print: I'm only responsible to damage to my own vehicle, not yours. Any and all modifications performed to your vehicle are at your own risk.
Now onto the fun part!
Install Notes
All weather stripping should be applied to the "angled" section of the top, not the horizontal section. The previous write-up has additional images of this. I haven't tried, but many appeared to struggle with adhesion to this section.
And remember to clean all your adhesion spots before pressing the strips on!
Front Panel
3 different types of stripping.
I wanted to cover as much length as possible so I went over rubber already laid down.
However, I didn't cover or move the soft fabric or the drain filter material. I gave my best judgement to keep channels clear.
The rear stripping is visible inside the cabin, but unless you have a flashlight looking up, you tend not to see anything. Looks good regardless.
Mid Panel
Just one strip along the rear curved section.
As before, only visible if you're looking for it. Spend an extra couple minutes laying it down and it will look nice.
I'm biased, but I think it actually looks nicer with the seal
Rear Panel
2 types of stripping.
Follow the plastic panel with the smaller stripping first. I added a small strip at the top. I only recommend one strip so water doesn't get trapped.
Recommend keeping the drain-filter clear (mesh sponge in front and above the small strips, hiding inside factory stripping).
I cut the larger pieces angled so it mates up nice. Hard to picture but you can see a very mild "crush" on the stripping when installed.
Still not as quiet as I would ideally like, but it's a significant improvement from how it arrived.
The "Gutter"
This insulation is 1/4" larger OD, thicker wall, and unslit when compared to a typical home improvement store version. This should hold its shape better and form a better seal over time.
Even though it's larger, it's still easily pushed through the gap between the chassis and installed rear panel.
No fitment issues putting on roof panels or sitting flush.
Can leave it at the full 6' but you might see it in the upper corners when the trunk is open. Cut a bit off and it will tuck behind the cage out-of-sight.
Front Outboard Latch Bracket
(Edit) Thanks to @SROC3 for mentioning this in the comments.
With the front panels removed, the outboard latch bracket bolts are accessible.
These have small but reasonable adjustment inboard and outboard. My driver side one was slammed outboard and I moved them inboard.
Before-and-after show that the front T-joint gets some better compression with the bracket shifted inboard.
Front Weather Stripping Adhesion
This was an issue when I received my Bronco.
The front leading edge of the weather stripping was misaligned causing wind noise near the T-joint. Upon inspection I found out the stripping wasn't placed or bonded correctly.
I don't know if the "sticky gunk" is per-spec, but the other adhesive strips were clearly not right.
Pealed off what was left of the sticker adhesives, cleaned it off (acetone does NOT work on the gunk, but rubbing alcohol did), lightly scuffed with sandpaper, cleaned again, and bonded it back together with a minimal layer of JB-Weld.
Get your clamps ready...
Good luck and hope this helps others!
Cargo area and doors is worth the effort and minimal expense. Kilmat on Amazon is dirt cheap and great stuff. I planned on doing the floorboard under seats, but found there is pretty nice insulation padding under there. On my FE anyways assume Raptor is the same.
Wildtrak has decent insulation there as well, so it's pretty likely the raptor would have it too.
How did you find the removal of the cargo area?
Thank you for the update. I went all through the thread, but didn't see mention of this, where did you get the below rubber seals circled in red, those are definitely not on the Badlands?So... I spent my whole afternoon and night working on this DIY project with a friend (roughly 6 hours). The rubber sealing installation guide could not be any more straightforward. I tried my best to replicate the installation, but closing the hard top, in the end, did take some effort... not sure if that's right.
I went the extra mile by putting more soundproofing materials in the cargo area. (this is my first time attempting something like this, please don't hate if it looks awful..)
After putting everything back together, I went for a short local drive around my community. It made a big difference in the wind noise, especially when cruising at around 50mph; the car no longer feels like a window is always left open. The soundproofing materials in the cargo area made the exhaust tone quieter, which could be a placebo effect. I only had a chance to go out for maybe 10 miles before I headed home, so I didn't want to write up my full experience.
Overall, I think it's worth the effort for 200 bucks total in parts (130~ for the rubbers and 70~ for the soundproofing material). There is nothing wrong with enjoying a badass off-road oriented vehicle while experiencing a more compliant driving comfort.
This little tip was a lifesaver. I don't mind the road noise, but I was getting a slight whistle from my top that was driving me nuts. I made this adjustment 5 minutes before going on a 500 mile roadtrip and didn't hear a peep the whole time.You can also try adjusting the "FRONT Brackets" that they lock down into. There are two of them, one on driver and one on passenger. each has two bolts. when you loosen them, you can shift the plate around a bit. I moved mine farther out, towards the doors. Solved my small wind noise issue
haha niceThis little tip was a lifesaver. I don't mind the road noise, but I was getting a slight whistle from my top that was driving me nuts. I made this adjustment 5 minutes before going on a 500 mile roadtrip and didn't hear a peep the whole time.
I also found a way to bust a knuckle while doing it so the Bronco is officially christened
Glad that helped!
