Where did everyone mount their Kicker hideaway sub? I ask as I am having trouble screwing the straps into the back seat. The seat backing must be metal as my drill and the screws are not going in.
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This is what I got in mine-I see no reason why it should be different for each harness
@BFizzy
I just modified the harness that comes with the Key500 using that.
I used the srews that came with the sub, and screwed it right to the plastic rear panel. I did put a layer of sound deadening material between the sub and panel.Where did everyone mount their Kicker hideaway sub? I ask as I am having trouble screwing the straps into the back seat. The seat backing must be metal as my drill and the screws are not going in.
I set the crossover on the Kicker Key to 120HZ. That's a high-pass crossover, so the speakers it is connected to (in my case the front dash and kick panels) will not play anything below 120HZ.For those of you with Kicker Key and the Kicker hideaway sub, what are you setting the crossover at? I'm confused because the Key has options for Hi-pass filter at 60/80/120/off and the subwoofer also has options for crossing over at variable levels. Not sure if they are redundant or addressing something different
Assuming it sounds great, but how much improvement did you see? I've installed a kicker key amp, a bi-amp wiring setup from Hoel, and Kicker CS speakers all around. I still have issues with what I figure is low range bass on a lot of songs, and it really doesn't "bump" like it should still haha. I'm assuming this hideaway fixes the issue, and recently got one and am deciding where to install it. Did you install in the cargo bay? Thanks for this tip on the crossover settings as well!I set the crossover on the Kicker Key to 120HZ. That's a high-pass crossover, so the speakers it is connected to (in my case the front dash and kick panels) will not play anything below 120HZ.
On your sub, it will be a low-pass crossover, so it will not play above whatever you select. I set mine to 120HZ also to cover the entire frequency band.
It made a tremendous difference.Assuming it sounds great, but how much improvement did you see? I've installed a kicker key amp, a bi-amp wiring setup from Hoel, and Kicker CS speakers all around. I still have issues with what I figure is low range bass on a lot of songs, and it really doesn't "bump" like it should still haha. I'm assuming this hideaway fixes the issue, and recently got one and am deciding where to install it. Did you install in the cargo bay? Thanks for this tip on the crossover settings as well!
Those don’t look like any Dynaudio I’ve seen, and for $60 you said? Link?It made a tremendous difference.
To be fair, I ran my Kicker amplifier a little differently than most: I wired it for bi-amp mode and replaced both the dash speakers and the kick panel speakers. I went with Focal for the dash and Dynaudio for the kick panels (Dynaudio had very similar specs with the Focals at a bargain-basement price of $60 for the pair).
Putting the amp in bi-amp mode adds additional crossovers for the dash and kick panel speakers in addition to the dip switches to add an extra crossover. So, I ended up with the following crossover points:
Focal 4" 2-way dash speakers: Only play above 320hz
Dynaudio 6.5" kick panel speakers: Only play between 120hz and 640hz
10" Infinity subwoofer: Only plays below 120hz
Rear stock speakers: I have no idea but can't really hear them anyway
To add bass you have to move air, and small speakers are just not capable of moving enough air. So yes, adding any type of sub will certainly help. My single 10 is enough to fill out the sound and allow me to feel the bass drum kicks again, and the kick panels have good mid-bass.
That's my fault. I meant to type Dayton Audio. I'll correct my post - thanks for pointing that out.Those don’t look like any Dynaudio I’ve seen, and for $60 you said? Link?
Thanks for the pictures and information! Just to clarify on your kicker key setup. I am also wired for bi-amp mode (hoel wiring THANK YOU) and replaced those speakers and got a kicker key. On the kicker key, you still have bi-amp mode engaged, correct? Sorry if it's a silly question, but just trying to understand. Thank you.It made a tremendous difference.
To be fair, I ran my Kicker amplifier a little differently than most: I wired it for bi-amp mode and replaced both the dash speakers and the kick panel speakers. I went with Focal for the dash and Dayton Audio for the kick panels (Dayton Audio had very similar specs with the Focals at a bargain-basement price of $60 for the pair).
Putting the amp in bi-amp mode adds additional crossovers for the dash and kick panel speakers in addition to the dip switches to add an extra crossover. So, I ended up with the following crossover points:
Focal 4" 2-way dash speakers: Only play above 320hz
Dayton Audio 6.5" kick panel speakers: Only play between 120hz and 640hz
10" Infinity subwoofer: Only plays below 120hz
Rear stock speakers: I have no idea but can't really hear them anyway
To add bass you have to move air, and small speakers are just not capable of moving enough air. So yes, adding any type of sub will certainly help. My single 10 is enough to fill out the sound and allow me to feel the bass drum kicks again, and the kick panels have good mid-bass.
Not a silly question - I had to read the manual and white paper 3 times to make sure I had it right.Thanks for the pictures and information! Just to clarify on your kicker key setup. I am also wired for bi-amp mode (hoel wiring THANK YOU) and replaced those speakers and got a kicker key. On the kicker key, you still have bi-amp mode engaged, correct? Sorry if it's a silly question, but just trying to understand. Thank you.
i do have the kit 11-4Couple things, plug and play kit and Key200 should run your dash/kick panel/pods. You'll need a resistor or LOC from there to run the sub.
The RCA should run from the LOC to the Key500. The idea is that LOC bypasses the key200 and goes straight to the next amp. You don't want to amp an already amped signal.
Check out these kits if it helps:
KIT 11-4 (resistor) => cheapest option
KIT 12-1 (PAC LPA-1.2 SUB CONVERTER 17 FT HARNESS WITH BUILT IN LOAD RESISTORS) => better