Totally agree…Regardless of the intent of the design, the execution should strive for the highest quality and best possible outcome…just sayin’
What's your feeling about what this person is saying pertaining to using the solution you've outlines? To me, your solution makes total sense. But, have you "water tested it", or determined that it won't compromise the longterm integrity of the shape or fit. I'm not looking for disclaimers or absolution, just well informed opinions and experience before I take the plunge. Your information and presentation was really well done and clearly took a ton of effort...much appreciated. The quote below is from Here...https://thebronconation.com/general-bronco-discussion-n.139/avoid-crazy-hard-top-wind-noise-hacks-try-this-first-t.17290/#post-252049So, we know these are Built Wild... but my wife didn't appreciate it sounding like a hurricane everyday. Who wouldn't want to hear the subtle guitar, bass, drums and notes of your favorite music on the sound system for which you paid? After reading 4+ threads and looking at various modifications people made, I decided to create a single guide here of everything I did to reduce the interior noise. The ideas are not all my own, and credit is due to those individuals whose brilliance came first. Shoutouts to some of those brilliant individuals- jlatigo, mountainbronco, Geo2 and more that I can't put my finger on.
My family says it's significantly quieter now, and I tend to do whatever they say. Hope this helps enhance your ride!
Total cost is about $75. Total install time is ~1 hour if your hard top is already off. If it's not off, what are you waiting for?
Specs
- 4 Door- most of the below applies to both 2 and 4 door models
- Wildtrak, Sasquatch
- MIC Hard Top
Grocery List
(These are not affiliate links. I don't receive anything from you clicking on them!)
- KX Automotive Universal New Weather Stripping EPDM Rubber Seal Strip D-Shape (20')
- Duck Brand Self Adhesive Foam Weatherstrip Seal for Extra Large Gaps, 3/4-In x 1/2-In (1 roll)
- KX Automotive Universal D-Shape Door Seal 0.47" Height X 0.55" Width Weather Stripping (10')
- Automotive Weather Stripping Door Window Rubber Seal Strip Z Shape (Buy the "Z" Shape- you only need about 3' of this, so you'll have a lot left over)
- Armacell 3/4 in. x 6 ft. Rubber Self-Seal Pipe Wrap Insulation (You need 2 of these)
General Install Notes
- Clean all surfaces before attempting to stick the adhesive
- Let the adhesive bond- i.e. flex your muscles and secure firmly!
- Use a regular scissors to cut things to length- most are approximate, and size doesn't matter as much (right?). The Z Shape strip is more visible, and you probably want to measure (hint, 15.5").
- Some seals are hidden, and some are visible... take your time. If you screw up, cut a new strip.
From the front of the vehicle working to the back...
Windshield
- In the front channel, adhere #1 in the Grocery List inside the full length of the channel.
- Cut 4 short strips of #2 and stick them 2 each, side by side, vertically in the ends of the channel.
- All of this is hidden with the top on. With the top off, it will either look factory installed or like a small kid used the scissors if you don't cut straight. I have both results.
Front Panels
- Use the #1 stripping for all of these.
- Primary guidance is to adhere the middle strip that goes on the Driver’s Front Panel to the slightly raised portion of the roof. Don’t adhere it to the top/roof section as it won’t allow the panel to close enough. It also makes for a cleaner look if you install on the raised portion.
- The two strips that face the windshield are not visible. The strip that runs between the two panels is minimally visible.
Mid Panel
- Secure #3 along the length of the mid panel. This is the curved side of the panel that faces towards the back.
- Snuggle the stripping right along the edge and you'll look like a pro. This is visible from the inside once installed.
- Super easy, right?
Rear Panel
Interior View:
- This is the fun one and makes a big sound impact!
- The picture is probably the best explanation of what goes where.
- I'm not sure if the top most #3 install is needed- and I forgot to take another picture of it properly adhered. It basically curves along a small section on top. I had some extra stripping, so I used it.
- The small square of #2 goes on top of a similar, but thinner material that Ford already has in that same place.
- The Z Shape #4 is great stuff, and I think makes the exterior even look a little sleek (no one ever described a Bronco as sleek, right?). I'd measure this one and cut accordingly- I did 15.5". Adhere it right along the edge of the panel. This helps with wind noise by sealing the gap between the frame of the Bronco and the rear panel.
- This is not visible except for #4 (Z Shape stripping).
Exterior View:
To Pool Noodle or to Wrap Your Pipe
- I saw various opinions on which material worked best, which ones disintegrated in the elements, how to secure, etc.
- I decided to use the rubber Armacell pipe wrap - #5 on the Grocery List. It comes in a 6’ length, and I left it as-is.
- I peeled off the self-adhering tape and stuck it to itself.
- Rather than figure out how to secure it with the top off and/or how to not make it look bad… I decided I’d simply lay it in the roof gutter when I put the hard top on. Otherwise, it will sit in storage in my garage if the top is off.
- We’ll see if it lasts- easy and inexpensive to replace.
So that's about it. I suggest ordering everything and installing all at once when you have the roof off vs string betting the process.
Happy Sound Dampening!
LMFAO, probably stated by someone who didn't get a top as shitty as mine.
I don't understand all the issues with top noise. I drove a soft top the other day for about an hour. I'm also the owner of two hard top Jeeps. A TJ and JK. The noise level was no worse then my two Jeeps. Are folks trying to compare a solid roof vehicle to the take off roofs of the Bronco? If I compare this to my F-150, then yes there is more noise. If that's the case then I understand the comments, but the odds are you will never be happy with this style top/truck.So, we know these are Built Wild... but my wife didn't appreciate it sounding like a hurricane everyday. Who wouldn't want to hear the subtle guitar, bass, drums and notes of your favorite music on the sound system for which you paid? After reading 4+ threads and looking at various modifications people made, I decided to create a single guide here of everything I did to reduce the interior noise. The ideas are not all my own, and credit is due to those individuals whose brilliance came first. Shoutouts to some of those brilliant individuals- jlatigo, mountainbronco, Geo2 and more that I can't put my finger on.
My family says it's significantly quieter now, and I tend to do whatever they say. Hope this helps enhance your ride!
Total cost is about $75. Total install time is ~1 hour if your hard top is already off. If it's not off, what are you waiting for?
Specs
- 4 Door- most of the below applies to both 2 and 4 door models
- Wildtrak, Sasquatch
- MIC Hard Top
Grocery List
(These are not affiliate links. I don't receive anything from you clicking on them!)
- KX Automotive Universal New Weather Stripping EPDM Rubber Seal Strip D-Shape (20')
- Duck Brand Self Adhesive Foam Weatherstrip Seal for Extra Large Gaps, 3/4-In x 1/2-In (1 roll)
- KX Automotive Universal D-Shape Door Seal 0.47" Height X 0.55" Width Weather Stripping (10')
- Automotive Weather Stripping Door Window Rubber Seal Strip Z Shape (Buy the "Z" Shape- you only need about 3' of this, so you'll have a lot left over)
- Armacell 3/4 in. x 6 ft. Rubber Self-Seal Pipe Wrap Insulation (You need 2 of these)
General Install Notes
- Clean all surfaces before attempting to stick the adhesive
- Let the adhesive bond- i.e. flex your muscles and secure firmly!
- Use a regular scissors to cut things to length- most are approximate, and size doesn't matter as much (right?). The Z Shape strip is more visible, and you probably want to measure (hint, 15.5").
- Some seals are hidden, and some are visible... take your time. If you screw up, cut a new strip.
From the front of the vehicle working to the back...
Windshield
- In the front channel, adhere #1 in the Grocery List inside the full length of the channel.
- Cut 4 short strips of #2 and stick them 2 each, side by side, vertically in the ends of the channel.
- All of this is hidden with the top on. With the top off, it will either look factory installed or like a small kid used the scissors if you don't cut straight. I have both results.
Front Panels
- Use the #1 stripping for all of these.
- Primary guidance is to adhere the middle strip that goes on the Driver’s Front Panel to the slightly raised portion of the roof. Don’t adhere it to the top/roof section as it won’t allow the panel to close enough. It also makes for a cleaner look if you install on the raised portion.
- The two strips that face the windshield are not visible. The strip that runs between the two panels is minimally visible.
Mid Panel
- Secure #3 along the length of the mid panel. This is the curved side of the panel that faces towards the back.
- Snuggle the stripping right along the edge and you'll look like a pro. This is visible from the inside once installed.
- Super easy, right?
Rear Panel
Interior View:
- This is the fun one and makes a big sound impact!
- The picture is probably the best explanation of what goes where.
- I'm not sure if the top most #3 install is needed- and I forgot to take another picture of it properly adhered. It basically curves along a small section on top. I had some extra stripping, so I used it.
- The small square of #2 goes on top of a similar, but thinner material that Ford already has in that same place.
- The Z Shape #4 is great stuff, and I think makes the exterior even look a little sleek (no one ever described a Bronco as sleek, right?). I'd measure this one and cut accordingly- I did 15.5". Adhere it right along the edge of the panel. This helps with wind noise by sealing the gap between the frame of the Bronco and the rear panel.
- This is not visible except for #4 (Z Shape stripping).
Exterior View:
To Pool Noodle or to Wrap Your Pipe
- I saw various opinions on which material worked best, which ones disintegrated in the elements, how to secure, etc.
- I decided to use the rubber Armacell pipe wrap - #5 on the Grocery List. It comes in a 6’ length, and I left it as-is.
- I peeled off the self-adhering tape and stuck it to itself.
- Rather than figure out how to secure it with the top off and/or how to not make it look bad… I decided I’d simply lay it in the roof gutter when I put the hard top on. Otherwise, it will sit in storage in my garage if the top is off.
- We’ll see if it lasts- easy and inexpensive to replace.
So that's about it. I suggest ordering everything and installing all at once when you have the roof off vs string betting the process.
Happy Sound Dampening!
It's highly variable, that's what most people don't understand, some of the tops are just fine... Other tops have the ability to cause hearing damage from the noise levels.
Exactly what the apologists don’t understand. A lot of these tops are built so shitty that the wind noise is unbearably loud.
I agree with you that I think there are likely some people who haven’t driven these types of vehicles and don’t have a good baseline to compare it against which adds to the number of complaints. However, many of us do have a history and the experience necessary to make a fair comparison. In my case the drivers side of my top produces an acceptable/expected amount of noise whereas the passenger side sounds like I’m riding in a car with my mom in the 80’s with the window cracked just enough to act like she’s not killing me with second hand smoke. My TJ, while sounding a bit more hollow, is quieter from a wind/air intrusion sound perspective and my JK is substantially quieter in all respects compared to the bronco. I can live with the noise my bronco makes but had hoped I wouldn’t have to since Ford told us all they “benchmarked” the competition and for years people on this very forum talked about how superior the tops would be compared to the loud/leaky Jeeps. Still love my bronco, but I hope to rectify this somehow.
This is an awesome step-by-step. I'm having some trouble with the perspective of the photos for the rear panel. I'm not sure what I'm looking at.So, we know these are Built Wild... but my wife didn't appreciate it sounding like a hurricane everyday. Who wouldn't want to hear the subtle guitar, bass, drums and notes of your favorite music on the sound system for which you paid? After reading 4+ threads and looking at various modifications people made, I decided to create a single guide here of everything I did to reduce the interior noise. The ideas are not all my own, and credit is due to those individuals whose brilliance came first. Shoutouts to some of those brilliant individuals- jlatigo, mountainbronco, Geo2 and more that I can't put my finger on.
My family says it's significantly quieter now, and I tend to do whatever they say. Hope this helps enhance your ride!
Total cost is about $75. Total install time is ~1 hour if your hard top is already off. If it's not off, what are you waiting for?
Specs
- 4 Door- most of the below applies to both 2 and 4 door models
- Wildtrak, Sasquatch
- MIC Hard Top
Grocery List
(These are not affiliate links. I don't receive anything from you clicking on them!)
- KX Automotive Universal New Weather Stripping EPDM Rubber Seal Strip D-Shape (20')
- Duck Brand Self Adhesive Foam Weatherstrip Seal for Extra Large Gaps, 3/4-In x 1/2-In (1 roll)
- KX Automotive Universal D-Shape Door Seal 0.47" Height X 0.55" Width Weather Stripping (10')
- Automotive Weather Stripping Door Window Rubber Seal Strip Z Shape (Buy the "Z" Shape- you only need about 3' of this, so you'll have a lot left over)
- Armacell 3/4 in. x 6 ft. Rubber Self-Seal Pipe Wrap Insulation (You need 2 of these)
General Install Notes
- Clean all surfaces before attempting to stick the adhesive
- Let the adhesive bond- i.e. flex your muscles and secure firmly!
- Use a regular scissors to cut things to length- most are approximate, and size doesn't matter as much (right?). The Z Shape strip is more visible, and you probably want to measure (hint, 15.5").
- Some seals are hidden, and some are visible... take your time. If you screw up, cut a new strip.
From the front of the vehicle working to the back...
Windshield
- In the front channel, adhere #1 in the Grocery List inside the full length of the channel.
- Cut 4 short strips of #2 and stick them 2 each, side by side, vertically in the ends of the channel.
- All of this is hidden with the top on. With the top off, it will either look factory installed or like a small kid used the scissors if you don't cut straight. I have both results.
Front Panels
- Use the #1 stripping for all of these.
- Primary guidance is to adhere the middle strip that goes on the Driver’s Front Panel to the slightly raised portion of the roof. Don’t adhere it to the top/roof section as it won’t allow the panel to close enough. It also makes for a cleaner look if you install on the raised portion.
- The two strips that face the windshield are not visible. The strip that runs between the two panels is minimally visible.
Mid Panel
- Secure #3 along the length of the mid panel. This is the curved side of the panel that faces towards the back.
- Snuggle the stripping right along the edge and you'll look like a pro. This is visible from the inside once installed.
- Super easy, right?
Rear Panel
Interior View:
- This is the fun one and makes a big sound impact!
- The picture is probably the best explanation of what goes where.
- I'm not sure if the top most #3 install is needed- and I forgot to take another picture of it properly adhered. It basically curves along a small section on top. I had some extra stripping, so I used it.
- The small square of #2 goes on top of a similar, but thinner material that Ford already has in that same place.
- The Z Shape #4 is great stuff, and I think makes the exterior even look a little sleek (no one ever described a Bronco as sleek, right?). I'd measure this one and cut accordingly- I did 15.5". Adhere it right along the edge of the panel. This helps with wind noise by sealing the gap between the frame of the Bronco and the rear panel.
- This is not visible except for #4 (Z Shape stripping).
Exterior View:
To Pool Noodle or to Wrap Your Pipe
- I saw various opinions on which material worked best, which ones disintegrated in the elements, how to secure, etc.
- I decided to use the rubber Armacell pipe wrap - #5 on the Grocery List. It comes in a 6’ length, and I left it as-is.
- I peeled off the self-adhering tape and stuck it to itself.
- Rather than figure out how to secure it with the top off and/or how to not make it look bad… I decided I’d simply lay it in the roof gutter when I put the hard top on. Otherwise, it will sit in storage in my garage if the top is off.
- We’ll see if it lasts- easy and inexpensive to replace.
So that's about it. I suggest ordering everything and installing all at once when you have the roof off vs string betting the process.
Happy Sound Dampening!
Does the rear panel need to come off or is this correction only down the side?. I’m having trouble getting my bearings in the picture.So, we know these are Built Wild... but my wife didn't appreciate it sounding like a hurricane everyday. Who wouldn't want to hear the subtle guitar, bass, drums and notes of your favorite music on the sound system for which you paid? After reading 4+ threads and looking at various modifications people made, I decided to create a single guide here of everything I did to reduce the interior noise. The ideas are not all my own, and credit is due to those individuals whose brilliance came first. Shoutouts to some of those brilliant individuals- jlatigo, mountainbronco, Geo2 and more that I can't put my finger on.
My family says it's significantly quieter now, and I tend to do whatever they say. Hope this helps enhance your ride!
Total cost is about $75. Total install time is ~1 hour if your hard top is already off. If it's not off, what are you waiting for?
Specs
- 4 Door- most of the below applies to both 2 and 4 door models
- Wildtrak, Sasquatch
- MIC Hard Top
Grocery List
(These are not affiliate links. I don't receive anything from you clicking on them!)
- KX Automotive Universal New Weather Stripping EPDM Rubber Seal Strip D-Shape (20')
- Duck Brand Self Adhesive Foam Weatherstrip Seal for Extra Large Gaps, 3/4-In x 1/2-In (1 roll)
- KX Automotive Universal D-Shape Door Seal 0.47" Height X 0.55" Width Weather Stripping (10')
- Automotive Weather Stripping Door Window Rubber Seal Strip Z Shape (Buy the "Z" Shape- you only need about 3' of this, so you'll have a lot left over)
- Armacell 3/4 in. x 6 ft. Rubber Self-Seal Pipe Wrap Insulation (You need 2 of these)
General Install Notes
- Clean all surfaces before attempting to stick the adhesive
- Let the adhesive bond- i.e. flex your muscles and secure firmly!
- Use a regular scissors to cut things to length- most are approximate, and size doesn't matter as much (right?). The Z Shape strip is more visible, and you probably want to measure (hint, 15.5").
- Some seals are hidden, and some are visible... take your time. If you screw up, cut a new strip.
From the front of the vehicle working to the back...
Windshield
- In the front channel, adhere #1 in the Grocery List inside the full length of the channel.
- Cut 4 short strips of #2 and stick them 2 each, side by side, vertically in the ends of the channel.
- All of this is hidden with the top on. With the top off, it will either look factory installed or like a small kid used the scissors if you don't cut straight. I have both results.
Front Panels
- Use the #1 stripping for all of these.
- Primary guidance is to adhere the middle strip that goes on the Driver’s Front Panel to the slightly raised portion of the roof. Don’t adhere it to the top/roof section as it won’t allow the panel to close enough. It also makes for a cleaner look if you install on the raised portion.
- The two strips that face the windshield are not visible. The strip that runs between the two panels is minimally visible.
Mid Panel
- Secure #3 along the length of the mid panel. This is the curved side of the panel that faces towards the back.
- Snuggle the stripping right along the edge and you'll look like a pro. This is visible from the inside once installed.
- Super easy, right?
Rear Panel
Interior View:
- This is the fun one and makes a big sound impact!
- The picture is probably the best explanation of what goes where.
- I'm not sure if the top most #3 install is needed- and I forgot to take another picture of it properly adhered. It basically curves along a small section on top. I had some extra stripping, so I used it.
- The small square of #2 goes on top of a similar, but thinner material that Ford already has in that same place.
- The Z Shape #4 is great stuff, and I think makes the exterior even look a little sleek (no one ever described a Bronco as sleek, right?). I'd measure this one and cut accordingly- I did 15.5". Adhere it right along the edge of the panel. This helps with wind noise by sealing the gap between the frame of the Bronco and the rear panel.
- This is not visible except for #4 (Z Shape stripping).
Exterior View:
To Pool Noodle or to Wrap Your Pipe
- I saw various opinions on which material worked best, which ones disintegrated in the elements, how to secure, etc.
- I decided to use the rubber Armacell pipe wrap - #5 on the Grocery List. It comes in a 6’ length, and I left it as-is.
- I peeled off the self-adhering tape and stuck it to itself.
- Rather than figure out how to secure it with the top off and/or how to not make it look bad… I decided I’d simply lay it in the roof gutter when I put the hard top on. Otherwise, it will sit in storage in my garage if the top is off.
- We’ll see if it lasts- easy and inexpensive to replace.
So that's about it. I suggest ordering everything and installing all at once when you have the roof off vs string betting the process.
Happy Sound Dampening!
@So, we know these are Built Wild... but my wife didn't appreciate it sounding like a hurricane everyday. Who wouldn't want to hear the subtle guitar, bass, drums and notes of your favorite music on the sound system for which you paid? After reading 4+ threads and looking at various modifications people made, I decided to create a single guide here of everything I did to reduce the interior noise. The ideas are not all my own, and credit is due to those individuals whose brilliance came first. Shoutouts to some of those brilliant individuals- jlatigo, mountainbronco, Geo2 and more that I can't put my finger on.
My family says it's significantly quieter now, and I tend to do whatever they say. Hope this helps enhance your ride!
Total cost is about $75. Total install time is ~1 hour if your hard top is already off. If it's not off, what are you waiting for?
Specs
- 4 Door- most of the below applies to both 2 and 4 door models
- Wildtrak, Sasquatch
- MIC Hard Top
Grocery List
(These are not affiliate links. I don't receive anything from you clicking on them!)
- KX Automotive Universal New Weather Stripping EPDM Rubber Seal Strip D-Shape (20')
- Duck Brand Self Adhesive Foam Weatherstrip Seal for Extra Large Gaps, 3/4-In x 1/2-In (1 roll)
- KX Automotive Universal D-Shape Door Seal 0.47" Height X 0.55" Width Weather Stripping (10')
- Automotive Weather Stripping Door Window Rubber Seal Strip Z Shape (Buy the "Z" Shape- you only need about 3' of this, so you'll have a lot left over)
- Armacell 3/4 in. x 6 ft. Rubber Self-Seal Pipe Wrap Insulation (You need 2 of these)
General Install Notes
- Clean all surfaces before attempting to stick the adhesive
- Let the adhesive bond- i.e. flex your muscles and secure firmly!
- Use a regular scissors to cut things to length- most are approximate, and size doesn't matter as much (right?). The Z Shape strip is more visible, and you probably want to measure (hint, 15.5").
- Some seals are hidden, and some are visible... take your time. If you screw up, cut a new strip.
From the front of the vehicle working to the back...
Windshield
- In the front channel, adhere #1 in the Grocery List inside the full length of the channel.
- Cut 4 short strips of #2 and stick them 2 each, side by side, vertically in the ends of the channel.
- All of this is hidden with the top on. With the top off, it will either look factory installed or like a small kid used the scissors if you don't cut straight. I have both results.
Front Panels
- Use the #1 stripping for all of these.
- Primary guidance is to adhere the middle strip that goes on the Driver’s Front Panel to the slightly raised portion of the roof. Don’t adhere it to the top/roof section as it won’t allow the panel to close enough. It also makes for a cleaner look if you install on the raised portion.
- The two strips that face the windshield are not visible. The strip that runs between the two panels is minimally visible.
Mid Panel
- Secure #3 along the length of the mid panel. This is the curved side of the panel that faces towards the back.
- Snuggle the stripping right along the edge and you'll look like a pro. This is visible from the inside once installed.
- Super easy, right?
Rear Panel
Interior View:
- This is the fun one and makes a big sound impact!
- The picture is probably the best explanation of what goes where.
- I'm not sure if the top most #3 install is needed- and I forgot to take another picture of it properly adhered. It basically curves along a small section on top. I had some extra stripping, so I used it.
- The small square of #2 goes on top of a similar, but thinner material that Ford already has in that same place.
- The Z Shape #4 is great stuff, and I think makes the exterior even look a little sleek (no one ever described a Bronco as sleek, right?). I'd measure this one and cut accordingly- I did 15.5". Adhere it right along the edge of the panel. This helps with wind noise by sealing the gap between the frame of the Bronco and the rear panel.
- This is not visible except for #4 (Z Shape stripping).
Exterior View:
To Pool Noodle or to Wrap Your Pipe
- I saw various opinions on which material worked best, which ones disintegrated in the elements, how to secure, etc.
- I decided to use the rubber Armacell pipe wrap - #5 on the Grocery List. It comes in a 6’ length, and I left it as-is.
- I peeled off the self-adhering tape and stuck it to itself.
- Rather than figure out how to secure it with the top off and/or how to not make it look bad… I decided I’d simply lay it in the roof gutter when I put the hard top on. Otherwise, it will sit in storage in my garage if the top is off.
- We’ll see if it lasts- easy and inexpensive to replace.
So that's about it. I suggest ordering everything and installing all at once when you have the roof off vs string betting the process.
Happy Sound Dampening!
Here’s a pic of the tubing going in…So, we know these are Built Wild... but my wife didn't appreciate it sounding like a hurricane everyday. Who wouldn't want to hear the subtle guitar, bass, drums and notes of your favorite music on the sound system for which you paid? After reading 4+ threads and looking at various modifications people made, I decided to create a single guide here of everything I did to reduce the interior noise. The ideas are not all my own, and credit is due to those individuals whose brilliance came first. Shoutouts to some of those brilliant individuals- jlatigo, mountainbronco, Geo2 and more that I can't put my finger on.
My family says it's significantly quieter now, and I tend to do whatever they say. Hope this helps enhance your ride!
Total cost is about $75. Total install time is ~1 hour if your hard top is already off. If it's not off, what are you waiting for?
Specs
- 4 Door- most of the below applies to both 2 and 4 door models
- Wildtrak, Sasquatch
- MIC Hard Top
Grocery List
(These are not affiliate links. I don't receive anything from you clicking on them!)
- KX Automotive Universal New Weather Stripping EPDM Rubber Seal Strip D-Shape (20')
- Duck Brand Self Adhesive Foam Weatherstrip Seal for Extra Large Gaps, 3/4-In x 1/2-In (1 roll)
- KX Automotive Universal D-Shape Door Seal 0.47" Height X 0.55" Width Weather Stripping (10')
- Automotive Weather Stripping Door Window Rubber Seal Strip Z Shape (Buy the "Z" Shape- you only need about 3' of this, so you'll have a lot left over)
- Armacell 3/4 in. x 6 ft. Rubber Self-Seal Pipe Wrap Insulation (You need 2 of these)
General Install Notes
- Clean all surfaces before attempting to stick the adhesive
- Let the adhesive bond- i.e. flex your muscles and secure firmly!
- Use a regular scissors to cut things to length- most are approximate, and size doesn't matter as much (right?). The Z Shape strip is more visible, and you probably want to measure (hint, 15.5").
- Some seals are hidden, and some are visible... take your time. If you screw up, cut a new strip.
From the front of the vehicle working to the back...
Windshield
- In the front channel, adhere #1 in the Grocery List inside the full length of the channel.
- Cut 4 short strips of #2 and stick them 2 each, side by side, vertically in the ends of the channel.
- All of this is hidden with the top on. With the top off, it will either look factory installed or like a small kid used the scissors if you don't cut straight. I have both results.
Front Panels
- Use the #1 stripping for all of these.
- Primary guidance is to adhere the middle strip that goes on the Driver’s Front Panel to the slightly raised portion of the roof. Don’t adhere it to the top/roof section as it won’t allow the panel to close enough. It also makes for a cleaner look if you install on the raised portion.
- The two strips that face the windshield are not visible. The strip that runs between the two panels is minimally visible.
Mid Panel
- Secure #3 along the length of the mid panel. This is the curved side of the panel that faces towards the back.
- Snuggle the stripping right along the edge and you'll look like a pro. This is visible from the inside once installed.
- Super easy, right?
Rear Panel
Interior View:
- This is the fun one and makes a big sound impact!
- The picture is probably the best explanation of what goes where.
- I'm not sure if the top most #3 install is needed- and I forgot to take another picture of it properly adhered. It basically curves along a small section on top. I had some extra stripping, so I used it.
- The small square of #2 goes on top of a similar, but thinner material that Ford already has in that same place.
- The Z Shape #4 is great stuff, and I think makes the exterior even look a little sleek (no one ever described a Bronco as sleek, right?). I'd measure this one and cut accordingly- I did 15.5". Adhere it right along the edge of the panel. This helps with wind noise by sealing the gap between the frame of the Bronco and the rear panel.
- This is not visible except for #4 (Z Shape stripping).
Exterior View:
To Pool Noodle or to Wrap Your Pipe
- I saw various opinions on which material worked best, which ones disintegrated in the elements, how to secure, etc.
- I decided to use the rubber Armacell pipe wrap - #5 on the Grocery List. It comes in a 6’ length, and I left it as-is.
- I peeled off the self-adhering tape and stuck it to itself.
- Rather than figure out how to secure it with the top off and/or how to not make it look bad… I decided I’d simply lay it in the roof gutter when I put the hard top on. Otherwise, it will sit in storage in my garage if the top is off.
- We’ll see if it lasts- easy and inexpensive to replace.
So that's about it. I suggest ordering everything and installing all at once when you have the roof off vs string betting the process.
Happy Sound Dampening!
