Factory oil fill? Blend or full synthetic?

[jp925]

I believe there was a member here that had developed cam phaser rattle. He noticed that going back to the Motorcraft Blend quieted them down (I think until he got it fixed).

But I too don't understand the blend spec. You can get Full Synth, Ford Spec'd Oil for cheap.

Newer Fords have semi moody drivetrains, my brothers 5.0 in his f150 will be noisy as hell if you don’t use the factory spec ford branded oil.

now, after having a 7.3 that will run on ATF, and a newer Subaru Ascent, that will actually give an oil warning light, if you don’t use the Subaru branded 0w-20. I did my research before going to valvoline, our owners manual has the specification with additives, anti wear agents, and thermal properties. If the manufacturers oil specs don’t list WSS-M2C961-A1 on the approved ratings on the oil itself, because older stock won’t have newer certifications, I would not put that fluid in my motor.

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[GoHack]

Will Ford use full-synthetic is requested?

I've had no problem at the dealership I do business with when it comes to adding Full Synthetic oil.

 

[da_jokker]

If the Bronco engine were a non-aspirated engine (no turbo), then I would agree w/using the synthetic blend, but they are turbo charged.

With turbos, not only do they run extremely hot, but at very high rpms, at 100's of thousands of rpms.

As such, the Full Synthetic oil would be the better choice. Full Synthetic oil can withstand the higher temperatures.

Also too, come the winter, Full Synthetic oil has a lower pour point relative to the cold temperature, and so will get to the bearings faster.

It also tends to do the better job of keeping the engine cleaner too.

After my initial break-in, I went w/Full Synthetic myself using Ford's Motorcraft oil. When I do my normal 5,000-mile change, I'll look into using a better-quality oil, like Amsoil perhaps.

I try to use the very best on my vehicles, be it gasoline, and w/the oil/filter.
I cringe, if that's the proper word, every time I read someone using a cheap Fram oil filter on their vehicle, most especially on a new one. There's been too many stories of them disintegrating in engines, including stories from mechanics that I've personally delt with. They're a filter w/glued on cardboard ends if you look at the cut-a-ways.
Stay at the very least, w/an OEM filter such as Ford's Motorcraft.

Just some thoughts...

1) I'm sure Amsoil is the best stuff around. But if you are going to pay that kind of money, it better buy you 10k oil changes at least. I do 5k now on just normal Synthetic (extended for the same price) and the oil life monitor usually shows like 70% oil life still when I change it.

2) Fram has a new Ultra Syth Filter out there - XG11955 - that seems to have reversed the mind set and is becoming highly regarded in the Forums (including off road ones).


I mean I spend $50 for my 5k full syth Ford Spec'd oil changes and have 0 doubts as to the quality/longevity issues.

I'm much more concerned about Ford's quality, assembly, and Fuel pumps

 

[l88m22vette]

I wanted to bump this because I just did the second proper oil change this afternoon. I upgraded to the bigger FL-400S filter with full syn Motorcraft, which I got in a 12pk on Amazon for like $96.

Its not a bad job, even though it seems drain for a good 10min hot. The oil filter channel is pretty sweet, and I like the gasketed drain plug. I didn't take it for a drive, but I did let it circulate and warm up for a few minutes, and then check the level after shutting it off. It was perfect at 6.5qts, I knew I should've gotten a lucky 13th with the bigger filter.

 

[DefNotBuddyLee]

I cringe, if that's the proper word, every time I read someone using a cheap Fram oil filter on their vehicle, most especially on a new one. There's been too many stories of them disintegrating in engines, including stories from mechanics that I've personally delt with. They're a filter w/glued on cardboard ends if you look at the cut-a-ways.
Stay at the very least, w/an OEM filter such as Ford's Motorcraft.

Fram has come a LONG way from 20 years ago if you avoid the base filter. Their ultra synthetic and new synthetic endurance line are generally considered some of the top filters recommended in forums like BITOG. Obviously Motorcraft is good, but the construction of these 2 Fram filters is pretty hearty and I believe offered better efficiency and more filter media than motorcraft (still purolator made I believe). Really cant go wrong either way with a 5k OCI.

 

[GoHack]

I wanted to bump this because I just did the second proper oil change this afternoon. I upgraded to the bigger FL-400S filter with full syn Motorcraft, which I got in a 12pk on Amazon for like $96.

Its not a bad job, even though it seems drain for a good 10min hot. The oil filter channel is pretty sweet, and I like the gasketed drain plug. I didn't take it for a drive, but I did let it circulate and warm up for a few minutes, and then check the level after shutting it off. It was perfect at 6.5qts, I knew I should've gotten a lucky 13th with the bigger filter.

Is the FL-400S officially supported on the 2.3L I4 engine by Ford, as an acceptable filter, w/o possibly voiding warranty?

 

[l88m22vette]

According to FSWerks it is, for what that's worth: https://www.fswerks.com/products/fl...-connect-fiesta-explorer-fusion-c-max-mustang

 

[Modrod66]

I wonder why they didn't go full synthetic from the factory?

Synthetic oil doesn’t have a property called “Cling”. Conventional/non synthetic oil retains a film on spinning parts the allows the oil to stay on spinning parts. When synthetic oil is on a spinning part, it is flung off and the part is left without enough protection to prevent premature wear. Most current engines are over head cam and have chains. These cogs and chains are not properly lubricated by synthetic oils because they spin it off. A blend type oil allows the best of both worlds. Synthetic is good at “shear” protection, and conventional is good at dampening and clinging to parts that rotate and are not bathed in oil. I was an air cooled Porsche mechanic. The synthetic oil engines we rebuilt, we couldn’t reuse the timing gears and chains. The conventional oil engines were usually still in spec and we could reuse them. The synthetic oil engines had low bearing and cylinder wear, but the timing chains and gears were trash canned.

 

[jp925]

Synthetic oil doesn’t have a property called “Cling”. Conventional/non synthetic oil retains a film on spinning parts the allows the oil to stay on spinning parts. When synthetic oil is on a spinning part, it is flung off and the part is left without enough protection to prevent premature wear. Most current engines are over head cam and have chains. These cogs and chains are not properly lubricated by synthetic oils because they spin it off. A blend type oil allows the best of both worlds. Synthetic is good at “shear” protection, and conventional is good at dampening and clinging to parts that rotate and are not bathed in oil. I was an air cooled Porsche mechanic. The synthetic oil engines we rebuilt, we couldn’t reuse the timing gears and chains. The conventional oil engines were usually still in spec and we could reuse them. The synthetic oil engines had low bearing and cylinder wear, but the timing chains and gears were trash canned.

While I appreciate the tech behind this, I'm not sure I completely agree. Modern engines have hundreds of oil passages that connect and lubricate all of these parts. Especially modern turbo engines with variable timing cams, these are oil fed solenoids that to only have oil inside of them, but flowing outsides as well. for our engines, after I did some research, I feel as though the choice for a blent from the factory is a clearance thing for lubricity as the walls break in; as well as cost for the factory.

All that being said, air cooled horizontally opposed engines, similar to Subaru's Flat 4 engines, can be known to "fling" themselves of oil and need something with sticker retention properties; but I really feel like thats more prone to happen from many high RPM track days in heat; and not cruising around the roads or dirt.

 

[CarbonSteel]

Synthetic oil doesn’t have a property called “Cling”. Conventional/non synthetic oil retains a film on spinning parts the allows the oil to stay on spinning parts. When synthetic oil is on a spinning part, it is flung off and the part is left without enough protection to prevent premature wear. Most current engines are over head cam and have chains. These cogs and chains are not properly lubricated by synthetic oils because they spin it off. A blend type oil allows the best of both worlds.

This is totally wrong and smacks of an old wives tale that will not die. There is NOTHING and I mean nothing that a conventional or synthetic blend can do that a full synthetic cannot do better.

At this point in time, there are more cars leaving the factory with synthetic oil than all others combined. OEMs would not spend the money on synthetic if it were not needed OR if it caused issues with the engine.

Synthetics outflow and outperform in both high and low temperatures versus conventional oils. Which, by the way, many so called conventional oils are actually blends these days.

While I appreciate the tech behind this, I'm not sure I completely agree. Modern engines have hundreds of oil passages that connect and lubricate all of these parts. Especially modern turbo engines with variable timing cams, these are oil fed solenoids that to only have oil inside of them, but flowing outsides as well. for our engines, after I did some research, I feel as though the choice for a blent from the factory is a clearance thing for lubricity as the walls break in; as well as cost for the factory.

There is ZERO tech behind that statement. A synthetic oil does not have anything in it that causes it to be "flung off" nor does a conventional or synthetic blend oil have something that makes it cling better. If that were true, you would have conventional and synthetic blend oils leading the market in R&D and sales...that is clearly not the case. In addition, look at all of the high-density powered engines on the market--what type of oil are they running? Conventional or Synthetic? Ford is the outlier here on the Ecoboost engines, most, if not all other OEMs are specifying full synthetic oils.


Here is a link to a list of 0W-30 and 5W-30 oils that meet the WSS specifications.

Link to Oils Meeting WSS-M2C963-A1 (0W-30) and WSS-M2C961-A1 (5W-30)

 

[CarbonSteel]

Just some thoughts...

1) I'm sure Amsoil is the best stuff around. But if you are going to pay that kind of money, it better buy you 10k oil changes at least. I do 5k now on just normal Synthetic (extended for the same price) and the oil life monitor usually shows like 70% oil life still when I change it.

2) Fram has a new Ultra Syth Filter out there - XG11955 - that seems to have reversed the mind set and is becoming highly regarded in the Forums (including off road ones).


I mean I spend $50 for my 5k full syth Ford Spec'd oil changes and have 0 doubts as to the quality/longevity issues.

I'm much more concerned about Ford's quality, assembly, and Fuel pumps

The FRAM Ultra (XG) line recently removed the mesh backing from the filter media. Go for the Fram Endurance (FE-11955) they have media backing, but only available via Walmart.

 

[DefNotBuddyLee]

I was an air cooled Porsche mechanic.

Pshhhh...Porsche can't even figure out a way to get their engines in the front and the radiators on their air cooled engines are simply the worst ever.

 

[CarGuy]

Interesting fact, the 2.7l engine has a wet drive belt inside the motor connecting the crankshaft. Usually they are chain metal. This drive belt can be affected by type of motor oil. I always use motor craft blend or synthetic. For thought.

As long as your oil meets the Ford spec, you should be fine. I fear the belt will have future issues, irrespective of oil.

 

[Mpali]

Synthetic oil doesn’t have a property called “Cling”. Conventional/non synthetic oil retains a film on spinning parts the allows the oil to stay on spinning parts. When synthetic oil is on a spinning part, it is flung off and the part is left without enough protection to prevent premature wear. Most current engines are over head cam and have chains. These cogs and chains are not properly lubricated by synthetic oils because they spin it off. A blend type oil allows the best of both worlds. Synthetic is good at “shear” protection, and conventional is good at dampening and clinging to parts that rotate and are not bathed in oil. I was an air cooled Porsche mechanic. The synthetic oil engines we rebuilt, we couldn’t reuse the timing gears and chains. The conventional oil engines were usually still in spec and we could reuse them. The synthetic oil engines had low bearing and cylinder wear, but the timing chains and gears were trash canned.

So you are saying if we use Motorcraft full synthetic oil we would have greater chance of the famous cam phasers failure?

 

[CarGuy]

Pshhhh...Porsche can't even figure out a way to get their engines in the front and the radiators on their air cooled engines are simply the worst ever.

Rear engine is the only way to go

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