Dealer will NOT use my Full Synthetic Oil in my Turbo charged ecoboost?

[JohnnyBronco]

While there is a difference, it has more to do with how the engine was maintained.

My dad bought a 1972 Chevy Kingswood station wagon brand new and it lived on Quaker State for its entire life, he changed the oil every 3000 miles and drove the car for 280,000 miles. In the 80's I took the 400 small block out of it and rebuilt it, the engine looked like brand new inside - no wear on anything except the timing chain was a little loose - it deserved to be after that many miles. Had the crank polished (didn't need it but did it anyway), dingleberry honed the cylinders (no taper or ridge), and slapped it back together with a nice cam and continued to thrash it for another 100,00 miles in my El Camino before selling it.

Tolerances on a 72 were so large and there was little to no synthetic oil available, he did what was right at the time, and even better, using Pennsylvania grade crude, which was always a better oil choice in my book. QS even ran a lifetime engine warranty for a while if you did exactly what your dad did.

Quaker State
Pennzoil
Wolf's Head
Kendall

Those were the best from the PA oil fileds, better than the Oklahoma and Texas sourced oils. We had different dinosaurs east of the Mississippi -

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[Orangecrush]

Wow, my family must be some of the luckiest people...

Wife's 02 Supercrew sold with 250K miles, no engine issues. Motorcraft full synthetic from New.

03 Mustang boosted to 743 at the wheels. Sold at 80K miles when sold, many 1/4 at a time. RP only!

12 Fusion 150K, still going, no issues. Whatever oil is on sale with API cert.

15 Mustang, now at 80K miles, quite a few 1/4 at a time. RP only. No issues.

I have taken RP and Motorcraft filter to dealership, chain oil shops, and independent shops and hands never had an issue getting the oil changed when I am short on time.

 

[LarryZiegler]

My god…
Bought both cars (with 250 k mile). I purchased both new…
Sorry to completely disagree respectfully with your condescending observation/opinion.

you are right the dealer did nothing wrong…
I was stupid to think they would let me run my Ford approved oil.

Any Toyota that does not last to 250,000 miles is a defective Toyota.

 

[Lake Tahoe Traveler]

Well, yeah, it seems reasonable that you paid for them to provide labor AND materials and now you want to bring your own materials? They cannot guarantee their labor using something they did not provide as part of your contract. When the brakes need replacing FOR FRIGGIN FREE as part of your contract are you going to bring those in , also?

If you already have changed your oil once, why do you want the dealer now to do it? And why, if you have a service contract, did you even touch the drain plug yourself?

Just sayin'. You either wanted them to do everything or nothing.

And your reluctance to follow the algorithms built into the oil life monitoring is your own business, but 10,000 plus miles between oil changes even when a vehicle is driven like Broncos are meant to be driven is the new norm

changed the break in oil at 1800 miles… most do it at 1000 miles.

As far as 10k on Modern oil I hear you… And, that is the timetable I used with my ML 320.
The problem is synthetic blends are “dino based” again I didn’t want this to be an oil post … but I prefer, especially for a turbo motor to use a synthetic base…(akaFully synthetic) it will not oxidize (through heat or chemical breakdown through the combustion process) like like typical non synthetic based oils…

yes I use Extended performance Mobil 1 at 27 dollars plus tax for a 5 quart jug….
The Ford synthetic blend (non synthetic base dino base oil)
Is the same price… I just prefer sticking with the same oil. Especially one that I have used for decades with success.

The 5 thousand miles per oil change is overkill and completely realize this, but I really could care less… It’s not that big of a deal… I own all my cars outright along with my homes… I’m retired and have plenty of time
I actually enjoy working on my cars.

Here are my cars:
1940 ply coupe, 37 Packard convertible, 1956 356A coupe, 1983 911SC convertible, 1975 Bronco Ranger(351w Ford crate motor 92 mustang GT EFI, hot rodded C4, Dana 44 front fiff, Ford9” big bearing rear ended, front disc brake conversion, F150 steering box, power steering)
2019 Toyota Prius,

I run Brad Penn dino oil in the older cars… full synthetic Mobil 1 in all of the rest.

The two cars that I purchased new that went around 250k miles was a 2001 ML320 (traded for new 2021 Bronco)
And a 2008 Toyota Prius (traded in for 2019 Prius).

I’m disappointed in my poor judgment purchasing the service agreement… that was a total mistake…
I will try to get it refunded…

 

[JaxGtc]

I’m disappointed in my poor judgment purchasing the service agreement… that was a total mistake…
I will try to get it refunded…

Wow. What are the odds, I have a '75 Ginger Metallic and a Carbonized '21 also.

Don't beat yourself up on the service agreement. If they won't refund it, just make it work for you. Life is too short to have regrets.

 

[Lake Tahoe Traveler]

Wow. What are the odds, I have a '75 Ginger Metallic and a Carbonized '21 also.

Don't beat yourself up on the service agreement. If they won't refund it, just make it work for you. Life is too short to have regrets.

‘75 Ginger Metallic and ‘21 Carbonized Gray????
That is amazing!!!! How is that possible???
The Bronco gods must be smiling !

 

[tourproto]

I am not an auto mechanic and I did not stay in a Holiday Inn last night.

I have only owned 2 cars my entire life prior to the Bronco: a 1986 Acura Integra and a 2004 BMW 330i.

The Integra ONLY got normal Valvoline 5w-30 oil. When the engine was rebuilt at 225k miles the guys doing the rebuild at Jackson Racing said the crankshaft looked brand new. I changed the oil every 3k miles and I drove that car HARD.

The bimmer, only got full synthetic Mobil 1 oil and is now at 165K miles. It does burn oil in city driving but none at highway miles. I think I need to add a catch-can to her. But I am sure at the core (rings aside) the engine is in great shape metallurgically.

I think short of a supercar, as long as you change the oil every 3-5K miles, it doesn't matter what oil you use as long as it is a quality oil.

But I have only 2 datapoints. YMMV.

 

[EndlezWaltz]

Note: if you got the Ford Premium Maintenance Plan (sounds like you did at that price point) it covers,
oil And filter replacement,
inspections,
tires rotated( 5 tire if you do that)
brake pads and linings
shocks/struts (has saved me alot of money just in this category, alaska is rough on them)
spark plugs
clutch discs
engine belts, coolant hoses and clamps
wiper blades.
so even if your not going to get your oil changed there, maybe use it for the other items.

 

[Lake Tahoe Traveler]

I am not an auto mechanic and I did not stay in a Holiday Inn last night.

I have only owned 2 cars my entire life prior to the Bronco: a 1986 Acura Integra and a 2004 BMW 330i.

The Integra ONLY got normal Valvoline 5w-30 oil. When the engine was rebuilt at 225k miles the guys doing the rebuild at Jackson Racing said the crankshaft looked brand new. I changed the oil every 3k miles and I drove that car HARD.

The bimmer, only got full synthetic Mobil 1 oil and is now at 165K miles. It does burn oil in city driving but none at highway miles. I think I need to add a catch-can to her. But I am sure at the core (rings aside) the engine is in great shape metallurgically.

I think short of a supercar, as long as you change the oil every 3-5K miles, it doesn't matter what oil you use as long as it is a quality oil.

But I have only 2 datapoints. YMMV.

Please Note: The exception….. the early 2.7 Ford 6 cylinder twin Turbo Ecoboost engine had a coking issue (aka oil depositing on the intake valves) because of the direct fuel injection.
Changing oil frequently improved this situation but ultimately vaporized (non synthetic base oil) found its way through the emissions system either under vacuum or boost, back streamed to the intake via an oil soaked intercooler…

This was and is a problem Ford addressed with the Bronco 2.7ecoboost.


Personally, I would only use a fully synthetic (Aka synthetic base) oil on this motor and not take any chances

and

Yes ….absolutely ….change the oil 3-5 k miles
And consider a catch can!!
Great Call !!!

 

[RustysBronco]

First off... I purchased a 6 year or 60K mile service contract with my dealer when I purchased my New 2021 Bronco.

At 1000K miles I changed the oil and filter replacing the Break-in oil.
I chose to use Fully synthetic oil (not the Ford Synthetic Blend) that met the ford spec for my 2.7. (WSS-M2C961-A1). Besides its a turbo engine... It doesn't take rocket science to see how this would make sense.

I've had two recent vehicles use this same MFG oil and ran them both to around 250K with no problems and the engines which both ran optimal when I got rid of them.

Anyway, I kept getting hit up by the dealer to bring my truck in which has 3K miles on it.
Sick of being harassed I called the service department. He said you have to bring in your truck to be serviced.
I told him I changed my own oil at 1000k He recommending I change it again 5000 thousand miles.

No problem, however I explained to him I don't mix and match oil. That, I stick with one oil and that would be the Fully Synthetic of brand XXX that meets and or exceeds the Ford spec WSS-M2C961-A1. I told him I would provide the oil.

He told me he would only put in oil the synthetic blend or other oil that they sell. I told him that I'm not interested in using the Ford Fully synthetic. That if it was so great why don't they use it in the Ford GT. Then I asked him what oil does their Dealership use for servicing the mega dollar Ford GT? He told me off the top of his head they have never serviced a Ford GT and he is not familiar with what oil Ford recommends...

Guess what??? Ford Recommends Fully synthetic Castrol oil????? They don't use the $15.00 per quart Fully synthertic Motocraft...in the Ford GT!!!!

Anyway, again I don't mix and match oil in my truck. Not deviating from that period.

I told him that there is nothing wrong with oil that meets the Ford Specs. WSS-M2C961-A1.

He said there is nothing he can do, It is the dealership policy to sell the oil they provide for their maintenance service.

I don't want to make this an oil topic, I'm more than comfortable with my oil of choice. (obviously good enough for:

• Aston Martin. Factory fill in the Rapide S and V12 Zagato.
• Bentley. Factory fill in 4 models. ...
• Cadillac. Factory fill in the CTS-V LT-4, CT4-V Blackwing and CT5-V Blackwing engines.
• Chevrolet. ...
• Corvette. ...
• Mercedes-AMG. ...
• Nissan. ...
• Porsche.

Does this seem reasonable for my dealership to flat out say they won't install oil that meets the ford specs WSS-M2C961-A1 that I provide?????

My problem is I've always serviced my own vehicles...
I never thought that this would ever be an issue.

The REAL issue is the expensive Service contract I purchased..... I feel ripped off if servicing my car just includes tire rotation and inspection and changing a few cabin and air filters.

Has anyone ever had an experience like this????

If you're not happy you're within your right to change your own oil, forego the dealer, & get a refund on your service contract by calling the company that's listed on the contract & asking to speak with the department that handles terminations. Get a fax, email or address cause they'll probably want it in writing. As for your dealer, if they don't stock the oil you want, it is what it is.

 

[RainbowStix]

I'll try to get them to cut a 4K check for my original service plan. I bet that will go over like a lead balloon.

pretty sure it’s cancellable within 30 or 60dy for a full refund and a prorated after that. Reading the contract helps…

 

[BroncoBarn]

The point of the Ford GT oil is.... that Ford recommends/requires that their dealers use oil outside the Motocraft brand..... His excuse that they only use what they sell obviously does not jive in the case of the Ford GT!!!!

"....call and get a refund for your maintenance plan. Boom problem solved "

Great advice!!!
I'll try to get them to cut a 4K check for my original service plan. I bet that will go over like a lead balloon.

Did you ever give thought to the idea that oil companies pay money to be be named in owners manuals?

 

[Hudman316]

I’m not sure why anyone believes Ford uses “break in oil”. They use the same Motorcraft oil they recommend in the owners manual. There is no advantage in changing it at 1000 miles. I currently own 2 Ford vehicles with the 2.7 Eco. The dealers have the full synthetic Motorcraft oil available for a surcharge. They will use that if you ask.

 

[pillar406]

You're comparing your Bronco to vehicles with motors made with much tighter tolerances and higher HP ratings. The minimum standards for those vehicles are going to exceed the minimum standards for your Bronco. The dealer isn't going to put in oil that you provide because they aren't authorized to do that. If something happened to the motor, regardless of whether or not your oil was the cause, the dealership would likely hide behind the fact that it was your oil as the problem. Then the legal battle would occur, which is something Ford and your service department doesn't want to get involved in, and thus is why they aren't authorized to do it. Cancel your service contract and do the maintenance yourself is your best solution.

I work for a dealer and we will put any type of oil that you provide. If you have no preference we will use the Ford bulk oil. His dealer saying they are not authorized to do that makes no sense. Its his vehicle and his choice. The dealer will annotate on the RO that the customer provided their own oil so if the oil is found to be the cause it will have already been documented. But I do agree that you should just cancel the contract and either find a place that will do what you want or do it your self and keep your own service records.

 

[BroncocnorB]

changed the break in oil at 1800 miles… most do it at 1000 miles.

As far as 10k on Modern oil I hear you… And, that is the timetable I used with my ML 320.
The problem is synthetic blends are “dino based” again I didn’t want this to be an oil post … but I prefer, especially for a turbo motor to use a synthetic base…(akaFully synthetic) it will not oxidize (through heat or chemical breakdown through the combustion process) like like typical non synthetic based oils…

yes I use Extended performance Mobil 1 at 27 dollars plus tax for a 5 quart jug….
The Ford synthetic blend (non synthetic base dino base oil)
Is the same price… I just prefer sticking with the same oil. Especially one that I have used for decades with success.

The 5 thousand miles per oil change is overkill and completely realize this, but I really could care less… It’s not that big of a deal… I own all my cars outright along with my homes… I’m retired and have plenty of time
I actually enjoy working on my cars.

Here are my cars:
1940 ply coupe, 37 Packard convertible, 1956 356A coupe, 1983 911SC convertible, 1975 Bronco Ranger(351w Ford crate motor 92 mustang GT EFI, hot rodded C4, Dana 44 front fiff, Ford9” big bearing rear ended, front disc brake conversion, F150 steering box, power steering)
2019 Toyota Prius,

I run Brad Penn dino oil in the older cars… full synthetic Mobil 1 in all of the rest.

The two cars that I purchased new that went around 250k miles was a 2001 ML320 (traded for new 2021 Bronco)
And a 2008 Toyota Prius (traded in for 2019 Prius).

I’m disappointed in my poor judgment purchasing the service agreement… that was a total mistake…
I will try to get it refunded…

Will you adopt me? I think you dated my mom in high school

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